Jack stands on factory jack points

[BenDem]

Hi all. Please forgive the oh-so-noobie question. My googling hasn't provided an answer I'm comfortable with.

I need to jack up the rear of my 325i and not put the jackstands on the rear subframe. From the famous pic of the e30 on it's side, the only other place to put stands on the rear is the factory jack points at the rocker panels.

Any good, safe technique to put a jack stand there with damaging the point / other bodywork?

[ANDRÜ]

I never had issues. Make sure it is lined up right so the edges dont get folded over.

[nando]

most jack stands will crush the jack points on the rocker panels. I've used them in the past but I prefer to use the CAB brackets or subframes.

[BenDem]

most jack stands will crush the jack points on the rocker panels. I've used them in the past but I prefer to use the CAB brackets or subframes.

This is what I'd prefer to do, but I need the rear suspension / subframe unweighted...

[rcsoundn1]

I have had the same issue. My jack stands would crush the rockers if I let the car down on them. I have regular craftsman jack stands. I have yet to do my subframe bushings for this reason, and I was lazy.....

[MR 325]

Every time I've pulled a subframe I've put the jackstands at the rear factory jack points. No damage.

[slammin.e28]

As long as your car isn't a total pile of rust using the factory points is fine.

[heatmakerz]

Factory points will due just fine. If your worried, just get a floor jack with rubber on its lifting point. I have never any crushing issues on the rockers.

[BenDem]

Thanks all!

[nando]

This is what I'd prefer to do, but I need the rear suspension / subframe unweighted...

If you're removing the subframe your only choice is the jack points.

[BenDem]

I'm not removing it -- yet. I'm hunting down the sources of some clunking / thunking, and I want to inspect the bushings in the rear.

[Balleristic31]

Cut a slot in a piece wood and put it on a jack stand and you can save your rocker panels from being crushed.

[jlevie]

I'm not removing it -- yet. I'm hunting down the sources of some clunking / thunking, and I want to inspect the bushings in the rear.

I'd say to save some time and effort. Unless they have been changed fairly recently, you can take it as an article of faith that the subframe & trailing arm bushings need to be replaced. The only other source of clunking/thunking in the rear suspension would be the upper shock mounts, sway bar links & bushings, or the differential mount. If, as is many times the case, those parts haven't been replaced in the last 8 years or so they all need to be replaced now.

If the clunking/thunking only occurs when traversing bumps or rough surfaces when at constant speed, the cause will be the suspension. However if it occurs at low speeds with changes in throttle, the cause will be the drive shaft, half shafts, or differential.

[BenDem]

I'd say to save some time and effort. Unless they have been changed fairly recently, you can take it as an article of faith that the subframe & trailing arm bushings need to be replaced. The only other source of clunking/thunking in the rear suspension would be the upper shock mounts, sway bar links & bushings, or the differential mount. If, as is many times the case, those parts haven't been replaced in the last 8 years or so they all need to be replaced now.

If the clunking/thunking only occurs when traversing bumps or rough surfaces when at constant speed, the cause will be the suspension. However if it occurs at low speeds with changes in throttle, the cause will be the drive shaft, half shafts, or differential.

I suspect it's something to do with the drivetrain, but while I'm under there, I'm going to check the bushings as well, just to be sure.

I've had the car a couple of months, and had a PPI done, and supposedly all the above checked out. Yet... Thunk.

[TobyB]

Cut a slot in a piece wood and put it on a jack stand and you can save your rocker panels from being crushed.

This. Make it a foot long or more...

t