325i vs 325e

[truckinn]

Hey yall, recently got bit by the E30 bug... I am trying to get in to a clean RWD sedan.

I was wondering about the difference between the i and the e. I know the numbers, and they dont bother me too much.

What kind of bothers me is that the e doesnt rev past 5 grand. How exciting can that be? What does the car sound like? I am guessing it wouldnt like to be revved as much as an 325i. Besides the tq/hp difference, is it still really the same experience? I am really looking for a nice 325i, and I have passed up some really clean 325e cars.

Maybe I should get a 325e, then when (if ever) that engine craps out put in something a little more peppy. Which bring me to my next question: As a newb with no real significant expereince working on cars, would I be in over my head even with a clean example that wouldnt need much when I buy it? I see that there a DIY guides for nearly anything, so that makes me a little less worried. I think I need some words of encouragement

:hitler:

[ELVA164]

The e is a low-revving, torquey motor built for economy. It'll have some good grunt if you swap the diff for something like a 3.25, but it'll never be a screamer. The i still has good torque (about the same as the eta, actually), it's just higher in the rev range. The car will get markedly worse gas mileage though if you're worried about that. Either car will be very easy to work on though; that's my favorite thing about my E30.

[truckinn]

This may be a dumb question, but anyway:

With a car as old as an E30, is there always something to fix on the car? I dont want to decide to take the car out for a spirited drive now and then and worry about something getting messed up on an engine with 130k+ miles. I guess that could be prevented by keeping up with maintenance and not buying a lemon?

[Andy.B]

This may be a dumb question, but anyway:

With a car as old as an E30, is there always something to fix on the car? I dont want to decide to take the car out for a spirited drive now and then and worry about something getting messed up on an engine with 130k+ miles. I guess that could be prevented by keeping up with maintenance and not buying a lemon?

Is there always something to fix?

Short answer: yes.

Long answer: yes, there will likely always be SOMETHING that could use attention eventually. But, with basic hand tools, a willingness to learn, and the commitment to perform preventative maintenance, those 'things to fix' are likely to always be 'things to fix eventually'.

I have two 87 e30s, and a VW that is even older. None of them have ever left me stranded. Sure, one of the e30's has a window regulator that grinds every once in a while and should be replaced, and the other e30's valves are a little noisy, even when freshly adjusted, but neither of those issues prevent me from loving and driving them. Have I spent more time fixing them than I would if I leased a Ford Focus? Absolutely. Have I spent less money and had more fun than if I leased a Ford Focus? HECK YES!

As long as you fix minor problems before they become big problems you will be fine. And like you said, there are how-to's for EVERYTHING, so keeping up on problems is fairly easy to do!

PS. 130k for an m20 is barely broken in. My eta is at 230k, and with a chip, KAmotors intake, i exhaust, and 3.25 lsd, keeps up with the 130k i car just fine.

PPS. Go for an i over an eta, but don't pass on a clean eta for a good price. The eta will likely leave you wanting for more, but it is a very competent car in its own right.

[anabolice30]

I have a str8piped 325e for a project and it sounds mean as shit. In my opinion the e30 isn't fast enough to be exciting just on horses alone, in the corners is where you'll find excitement.

[Liquidity]

If you can wrench and all that good stuff then a 325e is where it's at. The engine only revs slow due to the head design and the head is easily swapped out. You can't scoff at 200cc more displacement.

[nando]

Get the 325i if you can find a nice one. But at this point, I'd be choosing one based on strictly condition, not what motor or trans it came with stock.


Liquidity, stop - just stop.

[Brezzi]

If you can wrench and all that good stuff then a 325e is where it's at. The engine only revs slow due to the head design and the head is easily swapped out. You can't scoff at 200cc more displacement.

scoff scoff.

[Liquidity]

Stop what? All I read about are people putting together "327i" motors no matter whether they stroke a 325i or put the the i parts on their 325e. So now all of a sudden I'm just making this up? It's a hell of a lot easier to swap a head and some wiring than it is to tear apart a whole engine so why wouldn't you start with the eta?

[Andy.B]

Stop what? All I read about are people putting together "327i" motors no matter whether they stroke a 325i or put the the i parts on their 325e. So now all of a sudden I'm just making this up? It's a hell of a lot easier to swap a head and some wiring than it is to tear apart a whole engine so why wouldn't you start with the eta?

The 2.7i discussion has little bearing on the op's questions. There are plenty of places to discuss it, but let's try and stay on topic.

[Andy.B]

Get the 325i if you can find a nice one. But at this point, I'd be choosing one based on strictly condition, not what motor or trans it came with stock.

This.

[nando]

Stop what? All I read about are people putting together "327i" motors no matter whether they stroke a 325i or put the the i parts on their 325e. So now all of a sudden I'm just making this up? It's a hell of a lot easier to swap a head and some wiring than it is to tear apart a whole engine so why wouldn't you start with the eta?

it's more involved than a head swap, and just swapping on a B25 head without changing anything else isn't going to do shit. Yes, 200cc of displacement is something to scoff at - all it will do if you're lucky is make some more bottom end torque and hopefully make the same peak HP, but often it's just weak all across the board.

We get it, you read a couple old threads on 2.7i swaps. Now stop.

[AndrewBird]

A chipped eta is actually quite fun to drive and not much slower than an i car. Definitely determine whether to buy or not on condition of the car, not the motor (as long as it isn't an M10 318i lol)

[McGyver]

Like most people said, the e vs. i shouldn't be a big issue for you right now. I would focus on a clean body (no rust, good paint, etc) and a car with a manual transmission. I wouldn't pass up a car that needs beginner mechanical work like control arm bushings, sway bar end links, shock/shock mounts.

As far as working on an e30 goes there is ALWAYS something to do, but it will be cheaper than having a monthly car payment/lease on a newer car and you'll learn a valuable skill by doing the work yourself.

I've got a '91 coupe with 235k miles and an '89 vert with 189k miles and both cars pull hard and have never left me stranded (except when I half-ass a repair). My coupe is one of the nicest driving e30s i've ever driven, but that's due to years of slowly replacing everything that needs to be replaced. Likewise, I've driven other late model coupes with lower mileage and they felt like a death trap because they were neglected.

The bottom line, if get either any m20 with a clean body and a manual transmission you'll be happy. If the time comes that the engine dies or you want more power, you can always do an engine swap in the future.

[heatmakerz]

325i easy.