325i vs 325e

[Frankus12]

Is there always something to fix?

Short answer: yes.

Long answer: yes, there will likely always be SOMETHING that could use attention eventually. But, with basic hand tools, a willingness to learn, and the commitment to perform preventative maintenance, those 'things to fix' are likely to always be 'things to fix eventually'.

I have two 87 e30s, and a VW that is even older. None of them have ever left me stranded. Sure, one of the e30's has a window regulator that grinds every once in a while and should be replaced, and the other e30's valves are a little noisy, even when freshly adjusted, but neither of those issues prevent me from loving and driving them. Have I spent more time fixing them than I would if I leased a Ford Focus? Absolutely. Have I spent less money and had more fun than if I leased a Ford Focus? HECK YES!

As long as you fix minor problems before they become big problems you will be fine. And like you said, there are how-to's for EVERYTHING, so keeping up on problems is fairly easy to do!

PS. 130k for an m20 is barely broken in. My eta is at 230k, and with a chip, KAmotors intake, i exhaust, and 3.25 lsd, keeps up with the 130k i car just fine.

PPS. Go for an i over an eta, but don't pass on a clean eta for a good price. The eta will likely leave you wanting for more, but it is a very competent car in its own right.

I agree; ive had my 86 eta since 160,000 and two years later with 172000 ive done oil changes, the timing belt, and the water pump. Drive it every day to work and dont think a thing of it. surely there are things to be taken care of, but im broke and in college, and the e30 does not have a problem with it. Later bmws would probably be a different story, but all im saying is if the car was cared for from owner to owner, then they are reliable as ever.

[McGyver]

One more question though: What would be the recommended tool set/ equipment needed to be able to do beginner work on one of these cars?

I would suggest getting the biggest Craftsman Mechanic's tool box that you can afford, but try to find a deal. I started with something like this. You're going to need to buy more tools for different jobs as you come to them, but a big basic tool set will cover 99% of the work you do. Also, basically every affordable tool set is shitty quality and there is no real difference in whether it comes from Lowes/Sears/Home Depot/etc, just make sure that it's free to replace broken tools and you're good to go.

Also, get at least 2 decent jack stands and a cheap low profile jack (from harbor freight or something).

[slammin.e28]

I would suggest getting the biggest Craftsman Mechanic's tool box that you can afford, but try to find a deal. I started with something like this. You're going to need to buy more tools for different jobs as you come to them, but a big basic tool set will cover 99% of the work you do. Also, basically every affordable tool set is shitty quality and there is no real difference in whether it comes from Lowes/Sears/Home Depot/etc, just make sure that it's free to replace broken tools and you're good to go.

Also, get at least 2 decent jack stands and a cheap low profile jack (from harbor freight or something).

This.

Harbor Freight also has lifetime warranty on hand tools.....

[agent]

Obviously everyone wants a late model

[3vilE30]

I have a SETA and An iS car. The SETA is ungodly slow. but gets good mileage,worlds away form my iS.

You trippin.
Your iS probably has a 3.73. SETA's have a 2.93 diff which shines on the freeway. I don't mind cruising at 65mph turning 2k pms and have enough low end torque to get scooting.

[Andy.B]

This.

Harbor Freight also has lifetime warranty on hand tools.....

I would also recommend a mapp gas setup from home depot to deal with pesky seized bolts. The good old heart wrench really makes car when a whole lot easier.

[lcoleman]

If you're willing to get dirty and spend your money wisely, these cars can be great to drive and reasonably reliable on a shoestring budget. Tools will be a pretty large expense at first, maybe as much as parts in some cases.

Despite all the flak it receives, the e motor is great for a DD. Respectable gas mileage for the time, and decent pep. Stock for stock, ALL e30s are slow. The e's low-end torque makes it a little more tolerable or even enjoyable in day-to-day driving, but in the twisties or on the track, there's no replacement for the i.

[truckinn]

How about an E28? Searching for a decent E30 is frustrating, and I would definately not mind a nice E28. Maintenance wise, is it the same deal as E30s, with DIY guides and generally being not to bad to work on for a begginer?

Also, what are some types of issues that can be handled by a newbie? And what are some that should be avoided?

[BLACKCHARM88]

Bmw made Eta's for future IS and I owners to have spare parts...

[agent]

^ Wow, you're full of quality posts today!

[BLACKCHARM88]

^ Wow, you're full of quality posts today!

Sorry, I've had way to much coffee today... NEED MOAR!!!

[long tall eta]

just turned 400k on my eta original engine and she still runs like a champ. only uses a qt of oil every 3k.

[long tall eta]

i threw an ebay chip and a 3.25 lsd in my e and it made a hell of a difference. down side is i need to run high test gas and that shit is going through the roof now.

[HennaE30]

Some of the e parts aren't as strong as i parts, for example: I'm having to get a new trans in my car (84 325e) because the shift fork is bent (e forks are weaker than i) and the syncros for 2nd and 3rd are shot (they also aren't as strong). There's a couple other parts that are quite as strong, but none of it is a big deal. It all depends on what your Doing to the car, DDing? Get an eta, can't beat 30mpg.


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[Coupelx]

I have never seen 30mpg out of mine, even trying to drive at a half ass reasonable speed.