Originally posted by FredK
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Ok boys...the R3v way or the right way? :)
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The calm before the storm...
The sacrificial virgin :)
The oil leak!
engine removal - it's all about the angle :)
gaping void left by the SETA engine
My pair o' engines...
cabrio back in, awaiting cleanup and prep
what a sad state of affairs - a work bench is two pieces of styrofoam and a flattened box, and the garage bay is filled with parts...
new toys :)
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Ok, as the pictures denote, the SETA engine is removed and awaiting prep, and the vert is engine-less.
Two questions:
1. What parts should I replace now, while the engine is out, that are difficult to impossible to replace when the engine is in?
2. I want to clean up the engine bay. What's the best cleaner (doesn't have much cosmoline, if any that I can see.) Can I remove all that rubber/crap material around the tranny tunnel? I'd like to get everything out that I can and clean things up...
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Scott the break proportioning valve (connected to the single hard line going to the rear) is a mega pita to get at, cost about 30.00 and if ignored will seep on the frame rail ruining the paint. Mine did and Mom just did not know, the idiot mechanic apparently just kept topping up the fluid. I strongly urge doing it while it is easily accessed.
[IMG]https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/my350z.com-vbulletin/550x225/80-parkerbsig_5096690e71d912ec1addc4a84e99c374685fc03 8.jpg[/IMG
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Originally posted by parkerbinkScott the break proportioning valve (connected to the single hard line going to the rear) is a mega pita to get at, cost about 30.00 and if ignored will seep on the frame rail ruining the paint. Mine did and Mom just did not know, the idiot mechanic apparently just kept topping up the fluid. I strongly urge doing it while it is easily accessed.
Thanks Stefan - I'll pick that piece up.
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Originally posted by DanGillanscott, dont replace that part unless you have to. yes stefan is right about it being a PITA to replace, but it doenst go that often and i wouldnt waste your time with that right now. do the tbelt and all the stuff you already know to do. dont waste $$ on the STEA engine.
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The reason I know it is a pita is it went on mine BEFORE 30k (at about 14 years old) because it was leaking when I took the car over.
It seeped for at least 6 months by which time it had completely removed the paint on the frame rail. It leaks but the breaks work fine so you only realize it is an issue when you see the paint looking bad or missing.
Do as you see fit but I would go the 30 bux and do it while it is easy.Last edited by parkerbink; 05-15-2006, 07:18 PM.
[IMG]https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/my350z.com-vbulletin/550x225/80-parkerbsig_5096690e71d912ec1addc4a84e99c374685fc03 8.jpg[/IMG
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Scott, just read this thread, sorry to hear about that engine. How many miles did you have on that thing? How does the rod go through the block like that even if there is not enough oil?
Let me know if you need some help, I've been out of town but may have some time this weekend.Visit the 3 series heritage site (work in progress):
http://www.creativesmurf.com
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Pick up this motor http://boston.craigslist.org/pts/162255640.htmlVisit the 3 series heritage site (work in progress):
http://www.creativesmurf.com
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Originally posted by bmwsmurfScott, just read this thread, sorry to hear about that engine. How many miles did you have on that thing? How does the rod go through the block like that even if there is not enough oil?
Let me know if you need some help, I've been out of town but may have some time this weekend.
No idea why or how that hole got there. Will know when the bottom end comes apart :)
I'll be up at the garage much of the day tomorrow - putting the trans and clutch on the SETA, getting things cleaned up. Renting the engine hoist this week, should have it running soon...then I'll send the i head for a rebuild, order a cam, clean up the i intake mani, etc...and swap the head later.
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