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Warming the e30 up

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    #16
    Warming the e30 up

    When it was the most retarded. The temp was recorded around -27. It's okay though I sold that pile of junk for the late model.


    1989 325is l 1984 euro 320i l 1970 2002 Racecar
    1991 318i 4dr slick top


    Euro spec 320i/Alpina B6 3.5 project(the never ending saga)
    Vintage race car revival (2002 content)
    Mtech 2 turbo restoration
    Brilliantrot slick top "build"

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      #17
      I live in minnesota so I've had to start my m20 on seriously cold days, around negative 20. Give the engine some time to circulate the oil, but don't let it just idle unless you're trying to get the heat warmed up. Should be okay as long as your battery is good.
      Current:
      1989 325i
      1988 M3
      1987 325ic
      Past:
      2001 330ci
      2001 M3

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        #18
        Originally posted by ThatOneEuroE30 View Post
        When it was the most retarded. The temp was recorded around -27. It's okay though I sold that pile of junk for the late model.
        You saw the light.

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          #19
          I usually let my vehicles idle long enough just to brush my teeth
          1989 325I(M20B25US)|KAMotors CAI|Bilstein Sports|H&R Sports|ST Sways|SSSquid Tune|Red46 Sump Armor|

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            #20
            Let me preface by saying I think a lot of people don't know what cold can truly be. Unless you're experiencing negative double digits on a regular basis where you live, it is not cold. If you don't believe me, check out the climate info on Fraser, which is about 2 miles down the road from me. Annual mean temperature of 32.5F, it's the coldest incorporated town in the lower 48. It gets fucking COLD.

            http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fraser,_Colorado

            That said, I do think starting a car and driving off when it's -27F out will cause some unusual wear if you do it on a daily basis. Here in the high Rockies that is not unusual between December and February, we typically see a week or so of days that it stays -20F or colder all day of over the course of a season, and negative double digits in the mornings before the sun does its thing are a daily occurrence during those months. I've learned to run lower viscosity oil in the winter, and bought a block warmer for my Subaru, so the e30 can sleep on those hellish negative double-digit days (and I don't have to listen to piston slap for the first five minutes of my drive.) I used to warm my cars up since heat is mandatory when it's that cold out, with out a bit of warmth in the cabin your breath just frosts over the inside if the windshield, but those days are past. I do think that driving a car with it's fluids at that low of a temperature regularly can cause higher wear, but as to if it's more or less than damage from the car idling at the same temperature, I doubt if either going to make or break a healthy, well maintained motor.

            Originally posted by Dozyproductions
            You know why you're drinking that Pabst? No its probably not because it was the first beer you grabbed. It's because you're a winner.

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              #21
              Originally posted by ST1G View Post
              You saw the light.
              yes i did haha


              1989 325is l 1984 euro 320i l 1970 2002 Racecar
              1991 318i 4dr slick top


              Euro spec 320i/Alpina B6 3.5 project(the never ending saga)
              Vintage race car revival (2002 content)
              Mtech 2 turbo restoration
              Brilliantrot slick top "build"

              Comment


                #22
                The only reasoning I've seen about warming up a car or letting it idle is that it doesn't get enough oil pressure at idle to lube the head better than when it's on load. I only warm up my e30 just for the heater and that takes forever. If I get in and drive by the time I'm a light away I finally get some usuable heat that's a 30min drive. And yes the heater core works and isn't filled with air.

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                  #23
                  It takes 30 minutes for you to get heat if you drive it? How long are you letting it warm up for? There's definitely something wrong there.

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                    #24
                    Originally posted by rturbo 930 View Post
                    It takes 30 minutes for you to get heat if you drive it? How long are you letting it warm up for? There's definitely something wrong there.
                    I should have worded it better, if I start it and take off right away with the heater on blast it takes a while. It's like lukewarm the whole time I'm driving. But if I let it warm up with the heater core closed its nice by the time I get in and turn the heater on.
                    It makes sense tho dead cold plus open heater core it's venting whatever little heat it's accumulating. With it closed and idling its able to heat up "faster".

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                      #25
                      Something is wrong with your car. Mine would have heat within 5 minutes. And it will definitely take longer to warm up idling than just driving it.
                      Build thread

                      Bimmerlabs

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                        #26
                        By the time the needle moves off the first notch your good to go. Just ease into it till its warmed up.

                        NEW ERA AUTO GLASS - SFV SOCAL - 818 974-3673
                        DREWLIENTE

                        1$ PShops PM me

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                          #27
                          Originally posted by 3vilE30 View Post
                          I should have worded it better, if I start it and take off right away with the heater on blast it takes a while. It's like lukewarm the whole time I'm driving. But if I let it warm up with the heater core closed its nice by the time I get in and turn the heater on.
                          It makes sense tho dead cold plus open heater core it's venting whatever little heat it's accumulating. With it closed and idling its able to heat up "faster".
                          Yeah, if you have the heater on full blast right from a cold start it will take while. Give it a minute to build a little heat (and spare yourself from getting doused in cold air) then crank it up.

                          Dan

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                            #28
                            ^ Yes. The heater won't heat until there's warm water in it. Turn the fan on low to keep your hot sweaty breath of the windshield but don't dial it to max. Let the car sit for the time it takes to fasten your seatbelt plus a shiver or two then drive off gently. Once the needle's off the peg you can drive more normally and crank up the heat and the fan.
                            Block heaters are a wonderful invention. I used to have one that would heat and recirculate the coolant. It was beyond wonderful.

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                              #29
                              circulating heaters and block heaters are totally different animals.

                              Sure they both heat the block, but the circulating one also MOVES the coolant/antifreeze thru the engine as it warms. Circulating heaters also cost more and have to be plumbed into the hose system to make them work.

                              The "fool proof" method is the block heater. Sure it doesn't heat as well, but it will get your car started, is cheaper and easily lasts over 10 years of constant winter use.

                              When I lived on the prairies, a block heater combined with an electrical interior heater was all i ever needed! When I got out in the morning, the windows were clear and the interior was relatively warm (given the outdoor temps). All I had to do was unplug the car, get in, start it, buckle up and drive :grin:
                              If it's got tits or tires, it's gonna cost ya!

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                                #30
                                I use castrol gtx 10w-40 and have had no problems. Coldest it was- 21 degrees and fired right up no prob

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