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Advice for shifting smoother?

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    Advice for shifting smoother?

    So, when I got the new vert, I made it a mission that I'd practice every day on driving a standard. Before, I would just get lucky and practice on a few of my friend's cars when I had my last auto vert. The BRZ was very similar to my current vert with how the clutch feels.

    I can drive in traffic no problem, save for the occasional stall on a hill start. When I got the car, the tach stopped working after a bit and I had to shift by sound. Sometimes they'd be really jerky, sometimes they'd be smooth like butter. My tach works again now that I replaced the fuse. The catch point I've noticed is very high, and sometimes I let the clutch out pretty quick, but I always depress the clutch fully to change gear. I'm a little rough on downshifting, too. Could you guys give me some advice on clutch control and a few tips on smoother shifting? I'd really appreciate it.
    "Leafeon" '92 Lagunengrun 325i Vert (Daily Driver/Project)
    http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=366044
    The stickers make it go faster. :nice:

    #2
    get a clutch stop

    Turbo M42 Build Thread :Here
    Ig:ryno_pzk
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    Buttchug. The official poster child of r3v.

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      #3
      You can treat the clutch like the gas don't just slam it in and slam it out you can let it off slower to let the flywheel and clutch come together easier.

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        #4
        For downshifts, you especially need to be slow on the release unless you can master rev matching. But for now, slow clutch release on downshifts.

        Side note, I hate riding with people that don't complete the downshift before a turn such as holding the clutch in until after the turn.
        1989 325i S50 swapped
        2007 4Runner Sport V8

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          #5
          Feel free to PM me if you want to discuss particulars but generally, get really comfortable with the engagement and disengagement points of the clutch. The disengagement point is how far down you press for the engine and gearbox to completely disconnect, and the engagement point is how far up your foot comes before the engine and gearbox are completely connected. Don't get a clutch stop as a very high engagement point may point to a worn clutch and you don't want to rob yourself of important room for complete disengagement.

          Most importantly, don't be too hard on yourself. It'll take some practice. Heel-toe, double-clutching, etc. are all good skills to have in hand and do help the equipment (and they're pretty fun! ;) ), but don't worry about them for now. Focus on picking a consistent upshift and downshift point (e.g. 3krpm on the way up, 2krpm on the way down) and work on smooth clutch control. Also, don't be afraid to use a bit more rpm when starting on a hill; it's necessary and will help reduce those stalls.

          I've also got a couple stories to make you feel better if you need them! :)
          Interested in vintage cars? Ever thought about racing one? Info, photos, videos, and more can be found at www.michaelsvintageracing.com!

          Elva Courier build thread here!

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            #6
            You mentioned that you fully depress the clutch for all shifts. While the theory is great (no crashing of gears) the outcome may not be.

            When fully depressing the pedal, you are giving yourself and your gearbox PLENTY of time to complete the shift. Great. The trouble is that there has probably been so much time between clutch disengagement to re-engagement that the engine revs have likely fallen below where they should be at to make the ratios match. When you release the clutch the engine revs have to rise back up to where they need to be. The result is a neck-snap as you release the clutch.

            To be smoother, try pushing the clutch pedal in only just below the bite point. This still frees up the moving parts to complete the shift, yet saves you that time so the engine revs won't fall as far. A clutch stop accomplishes the same thing.

            Your job as the driver is to juggle ratios and revs to make the car and passengers happy. It is daunting at first, but it will come with time and practice. Slamming shifts quickly is rarely smooth, but neither is a molasses-slow.
            Last edited by quickervicar; 10-07-2015, 12:20 PM.

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              #7
              When Im on steep hills, like around San Francisco, I use my e brake to help me get started from a stop. I dont know how common this is but it helps me from rolling backwards into the car behind me or doing a burnout trying not to.

              Stopped on a hill, clutch in, foot on brake. Pull ebrake enough to hold car in place and now you can release your foot from brake without rolling backwards. Give it some gas and start letting the clutch out. Once you feel the clutch start to engage let the ebrake off, more gas, less clutch, and your on your way.

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                #8
                The more you drive manual the easier it gets after awhile. Eventually you don't need to look at the rpms. Stopping on hills is easy as well once you have had enough practice.

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