Is this damage fixable? Is the car totaled?

[Sh3rpak!ng]

it would have taken the force of that impact mostly in shear, which is what that bracket is designed for. There are actually pins embedded in the frame that take that force, not the bolts, so you're lucky there. but you really should have both installed..

Yea, they're both installed now. Can't believe that one slipped my mind.

Fix it !!!!

I will, and more :D

[QUKBMER]

Fix it !!!!

[nando]

it would have taken the force of that impact mostly in shear, which is what that bracket is designed for. There are actually pins embedded in the frame that take that force, not the bolts, so you're lucky there. but you really should have both installed..

[Sh3rpak!ng]

I'm shocked that the lollipop didn't pull itself out of the frame before the control arm bent like that!

The repairs are looking good.

So was I. Not only that, but only 1 of the bolts was installed I totally forgot I had slightly cross threaded one of the holes and hadn't chased it and put the bolt back (I fixed it this past week finally). I am going to take a closer look a that area to make sure it's not weakened, not that I'd be able to necessarily tell past obvious physical damage.

Maybe put some spot welds around each hole and then grind it flat? Just in case? idk

[101]

I'm shocked that the lollipop didn't pull itself out of the frame before the control arm bent like that!

The repairs are looking good.

[Sh3rpak!ng]

Here are more pictures after I cleared away most of the severe damage so I could get a better idea of what I was working with. I cut away most of the really twisted metal so that the tire would be able to move freely. Also repaired the harness so I have working lights and signals again.

Here you can see the sheet metal that's attached to the frame was basically untouched.







Here you can see where the tire got pushed into the back of the wheel well and dented the wheel well in. I was already able to pull it back out a bit with some leverage. I think I'll probably be able to get it back in line once I pull the inner wheel well piece.



More overview of the situation



Hood got buckled a bit. I jumped on it after I closed it and it bent it back enough.



New lemforder arm vs the bent one



Here you can see how much the bumper actually compressed, almost nothing. I guess this really shows that the bumper/frame didn't get much impact.



Back together



"repaired" harness - I'll fix all of it properly when I replace the fender/wheel well.

[Sh3rpak!ng]

Finding a decent no rust shell is easier said than done. Probably would cost more than fixing the car since you'd have to buy a whole E30 to get a rust free shell...

Actually it's relatively easy here in Socal, they're all pretty much rust free. Also, I bet if I did it right, I could even make some money by parting out what I didn't need. It's not really the cos tthat bothers me, it's all of the work involved, and all of the custom details that I spent hundreds of hours to perfect.

That's not looking to bad. A new shell is not necessary.

No, at this point I don't think so. I'll take some frame measurements to make sure it's all straight, but I have a feeling it'll be fine. I might just buy a tram gauge and take all the measurements myself.

Your tires are really bald too

I was wondering when someone would point that out. I really killed those between a couple autox events and all the aggressive canyon carving. They'll be replaced before the car is driving again.

[TimKninja]

Your tires are really bald too

[graveshaker]

That's not looking to bad. A new shell is not necessary.

[varg]

dude, get a new shell and reshell it.

Finding a decent no rust shell is easier said than done. Probably would cost more than fixing the car since you'd have to buy a whole E30 to get a rust free shell...

[Sh3rpak!ng]

Copied from my build thread - input welcome


Regarding the e30, I worked on it yesterday. Replaced the control arm and cut away the rest of the twisted metal and kinda ghetto repaired the harness where it had been messed up. I've got a working passenger headlight and working turn signals now. I bent the valence kinda back into shape enough that it can drive. The hood was a bit buckled; I jumped and sat on it - now its relatiely flush enough. After I bolted the new control arm on, I noticed the "pin" that slides into the lollipop was pushed/inserted about 5-10mm deeper than it was before. Could I have tweaked the front subframe a bit?? I'm crossing my fingers that's it and not the frame. I've got some pictures that I'll post later.

Sent from my SM-G920T using Tapatalk

[Sh3rpak!ng]

dude, get a new shell and reshell it. that car wont be fix-able for less than 6-7k. and you can part out the other car and make most of the cost back. ya it sucks a lot but you live and learn.

heh?

[Cabriolet]

dude, get a new shell and reshell it. that car wont be fix-able for less than 6-7k. and you can part out the other car and make most of the cost back. ya it sucks a lot but you live and learn.

[Sh3rpak!ng]

That's what I did too haha. My car was sitting for like 6 weeks so I just fixed all the little problems it had and organized the wires :D.

Yea I've gotta find the light in this mess, otherwise I'll have no motivation to fix it.

[E30_Narek]

That's a good rescue story. I've already got a line on a brand new inner fender/wheel well, brand new core support, a bronzit hood, and maybe a fender. My fingers are crossed that the frame is still straight because if so, that'll keep things "simple" enough.

I'm taking this situation as an opportunity to fix and change all the little things I didn't like from before, so I'll probably be doing a wire tuck and bay shave/prep for paint amongst other things :)

That's what I did too haha. My car was sitting for like 6 weeks so I just fixed all the little problems it had and organized the wires :D.