Questionable repairs that you have done, which have lasted a long time..

[nando]

you know the irony - I had taken out the lower spring pads at some point, but left the upper ones in. After several years, the metal on the trailing arm was still perfect, but rust was developing on top because it was holding in moisture and debris, while the bottom stayed dry. They're both gone now but I always thought that was interesting.

[Bimmerman325i]

Cracked an ignition coil in half on my S50, unknowingly, the morning before a track day while changing the valve cover gasket. It didn't crack off and was still partially held together by the boot, so I didn't realize it (also, was 5am after pulling an allnighter to get the car ready for track day). It just didn't conduct electrons, and I was running on 5 cylinders.

So, I slapped some JB quick-weld on it and waited for it to sorta-dry. It seemed to hold together well enough, so I reinstalled it. Car fired up on all 6 cylinders so I threw tools in the back of the car and was out of the garage and on my way to HPR an hour later on zero sleep and ill-advised adrenaline.

That was 6 years and dozens of track days ago, and I never replaced the coil pack.

[Das Delfin]

You're right, those throttle body heater bolts are torx. Mine were so corroded they became hex ;) But I just bought new ones from FCPeuro

When I replaced my tie rods I went out of my way to get correct crimps and the crimp tool and found zip ties holding the hold boots on. I recently had to remove a boot to check out the rack and hadn't ordered more crimps so it's now held on with a zip tie. :|

[nando]

probably ok for the dust boots. I'm just surprised that the my rear axles have held up with zip ties on the boots for the last 12 years.

[88BlackS-ETA]

City light wires were twisted and electrical taped to the side marker wires for 2 years. Now they are soldered together with heat shrink and electrical tape.

Right fender is held onto the valance with a self taping screw.

[Jboss12]

Accidentally broke the plastic pipe that goes from the front air dam to the intake box. Turns out that a soup can is the perfect length/diameter to take its place!

[fight4life28]

I've used electrical tape on the sidemarker lights as well. Also finding the hack job stereo install the P/O did was pain the in the ass and some of the P/O's messes are always pain..

[ThatOneEuroE30]

Gas tank got a hole in it and instead of dropping it. I just packed the hole with water weld and then put regular jb weld and rubberized undercoating over it. Held up so far

[nando]

You can't just say that and not post pics.

As promised.. Actually, now that i look at it i could just clean up the crimp splices with soldered joints and it would look better. The 110v chord is snug and has been working for 12 years, so why change it..

[ThatOneEuroE30]

As promised.. Actually, now that i look at it i could just clean up the crimp splices with soldered joints and it would look better. The 110v chord is snug and has been working for 12 years, so why change it..

Oem as fuck...

[ak-]

The 90* metal ICV tube that goes into the throttle body kept popping off so I JB welded it to the throttle body, seeing how I will never have a reason to remove it to service anything.

My oil temp/press and boost gauge wiring behind the panel used to be crimped and wired without any heatshrink in a whole assortment of colored crimps and wires and connectors. Even though you can't see it, it bothered me enough to do it all over again with colored wires identifying ground/power and heatshrink.

I'm not too proud of my smiley headlight wiring, but it's working for now and hidden.

My front valance is held on by the bolts that sandwich the fenders together and the bolts that are hidden under the grilles only. I can't stand putting back all the bolts needed for the amount of time's I find myself removing the valance.

Can't really think of much else lol

[15Michaeljoseph]

Replumbed my rear brake system with copper nickel line... Broke a few of the plastic line clips off taking out the old stuff, so I ziptied the new line to the broken clips. Oh, and my old rear T fitting wouldn't come out, so I ziptied the new T to the old one :)

Fuel filter is also held on with zip ties, original strap broke.

Found rust holes under the front cab corners. Some wire wheeling, screen, bondo and undercoating fixed that up (at least until I have $3k laying around to burn for a body shop)

There are some other things, I'm sure I'll think of them.

Sent from my XT1064 using Tapatalk

[Slowgan]

I used license plates, screws, caulk, and bed liner to seal small holes in the floor and battery tray. Also the front valence is held on by 2 clips and super glue.. It's not stupid if it works...right??

[Kershaw]

As promised.. Actually, now that i look at it i could just clean up the crimp splices with soldered joints and it would look better. The 110v chord is snug and has been working for 12 years, so why change it..

That... really doesn't look bad. I snipped the OEM yellow connectors off e36s at the junkyard, but they were just slightly too long and didn't snap into place properly. That might be because I have Depos, who knows. Anyway, the connectors are ziptied to the back of the housing to make sure they stay on properly. Honestly, your solution is pretty good. Especially since the rubber probably seals out moisture fairly well.

[nando]

I actually bought new connectors to replace it, but I ended up using one of them to fix my fog lights.