Anyone running these rotors?

[Brian D]

yes they do let gases out, same as drilled rotors. But why do you think that the slotted ones stop better even though they can't get rid of the gas as quick?

Wait a tic, are you saying that you think the outgassing helps braking?

Have you seen anything that conclusively proves that slotted rotors "stop better"?

[asubimmer]

Why use drilled or slotted discs?
Drilling or slotting discs aids the disc in several ways:

• The edges of the slots or holes continuously clean and refresh the pad surface as well as providing increased brake "bite". Additionally, they prevent gasses from collecting between the pad and disc interface.
• The disc is lightened, thereby decreasing its rotational inertia.
• Improved ventilation increases the disc's ability to shed heat, resulting in cooler operating temperatures

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What are the advantages of drilled and slotted discs?
The main advantages of drilled and slotted discs are the same: increased brake "bite", and a continuous refreshing of the brake pad surface. Drilled discs have the additional advantage of being lighter and running cooler. However, there are certain pad materials that should not be used with a drilled disc.
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Why are there so many holes in a cross-drilled disc?
The number of holes in a cross-drilled disc is part of the engineered system. Brembo has done extensive testing with regards to the number of holes, their size, their location and their chamfering. This attention to detail is what truly sets Brembo apart in the world of braking. The same attention to detail that is delivered to the Ferrari Formula One effort is a component of the high performance program. The number of holes in a disc is in part a function of the size of the disc and the internal venting (if it is a vented disc).
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Are discs with cast-in-place holes better than cross-drilled discs?
Brembo has extensively studied and tested cross-drilling versus casting the holes in place and found no significant effect on performance or durability.

Face the facts newbs

[sumyungguy]

drilled rotors suck, real race cars don't run them for a reason.

Stick with the slotted rotors.

I dont know how many real race cars you've been around, but your so wrong. Look at Alcon and Brembo brake equipped race cars and tell me what you see.

asubimmer is 100% correct, slotted rotors also help keep the debris off the pads (as said in the above post).

[Cooper]

I dont know how many real race cars you've been around, but your so wrong. Look at Alcon and Brembo brake equipped race cars and tell me what you see.

asubimmer is 100% correct, slotted rotors also help keep the debris off the pads (as said in the above post).

LOL:p

[StereoInstaller1]

I do not understand why people still compare street cars with race cars.

REAL drilled rotors are just fine when they get used for 4 hours and then trashed.

Mine have been living on my E30 (which is no monster, trust me) since I got it. They were already grooved to hell before I got old of them. No one will even attempt to surface them, they are that worn.

Before I changed the CABs, my car shook like a dog shitting a peach pit when I used the brakes. After AKG Urethane CABs, it is fine, but STILL squeals, squeaks and generally stops poorly. I eat pads like it is good nutrition, currently Pagid, with SS lines and Motul fluid.

I want big brakes, but more for looks than performance. I am going to find a set of Audi TT rotors (312mmX25mm) and have them redrilled for 4X100, then use calipers off of a 750i, with cute little brackets.

300mm.de FTW!

The big hassle I have is where to get a set of rotors/caliper brackets off of a Z1...

[mode]

The big hassle I have is where to get a set of rotors/caliper brackets off of a Z1...

A Z1 maybe?

[Brian D]

Face the facts newbs

Ah yes, regurgitated info from the manufacturer. They have no hidden interest in putting that info out, I'm sure. Do you also believe the Tornado ads?

You didn't answer either of my questions. Bring real tech, not bullshit. I haven't looked into it, maybe there is an impartial, instrumented test of braking distance differences between slotted and plain rotors.

I doubt it. Prove me wrong.

[boom-monkey]

It's been said, OEM blanks are the way to go.

Cheap, and perform just as well as slotted rotors.

[luTTz]

Just to add a little more fuel to the fire, here's a tidbit from a recent Grassroots Motorsports:

"Crossdrilling your rotors might look neat, but what is it really doing for you? Well, unless your car is using brake pads from the '40s and 50s, not a whole lot. Rotors were first drilled because early brake pad materials gave off gasses when heated to racing temperatures, a process known as "gassing out." ...It was an effective solution, but today's friction materials do not exhibit the some gassing out phenomenon as the early pads. Contrary to popular belief, they don't lower temperatures. (In fact, by removing weight from the rotor, they can actually cause temperatures to increase a little.) These holes create stress risers that allow the rotor to crack sooner, and make a mess of brake pads--sort of like a cheese grater rubbing against them at every stop. Want more evidence? Look at NASCAR or F1. You would think that if drilling holes in the rotor was the hot ticket, these teams would be doing it...Slotting rotors, on the other hand, might be a consideration if your sanctioning body allows for it. Cutting thin slots across the face of the rotor can actually help to clean the face of the brake pads over time, helping to reduce the glazing often found during high-speed use which can lower the coefficient of friction. While there may still be a small concern over creating stress risers in the face of the rotor, if the slots are shallow and cut properly, the trade-off appears to be worth the risk. (Have you looked at a NASCAR rotor lately?)

My input:
I used brembo slotted rotors, carbotech xp8's and xp10's with high temp brake fluid, i don't have the brand off the top of my head. With this setup, i experienced not a single ounce of brake fade in 100+ temperatures at road atlanta.

[markseven]

I have the TMS drilled kit and haven't had any probs; they have six HPDE's under thier belt and are on thier second set of pads. That said, I drive HPDE RG 2 with NASA, so I'm not really going that fast. I like 'em.

[markseven]

Just to add a little more fuel to the fire, here's a tidbit from a recent Grassroots Motorsports:

"Crossdrilling your rotors might look neat, but what is it really doing for you? Well, unless your car is using brake pads from the '40s and 50s, not a whole lot. Rotors were first drilled because early brake pad materials gave off gasses when heated to racing temperatures, a process known as "gassing out." ...It was an effective solution, but today's friction materials do not exhibit the some gassing out phenomenon as the early pads. Contrary to popular belief, they don't lower temperatures. (In fact, by removing weight from the rotor, they can actually cause temperatures to increase a little.) These holes create stress risers that allow the rotor to crack sooner, and make a mess of brake pads--sort of like a cheese grater rubbing against them at every stop. Want more evidence? Look at NASCAR or F1. You would think that if drilling holes in the rotor was the hot ticket, these teams would be doing it...Slotting rotors, on the other hand, might be a consideration if your sanctioning body allows for it. Cutting thin slots across the face of the rotor can actually help to clean the face of the brake pads over time, helping to reduce the glazing often found during high-speed use which can lower the coefficient of friction. While there may still be a small concern over creating stress risers in the face of the rotor, if the slots are shallow and cut properly, the trade-off appears to be worth the risk. (Have you looked at a NASCAR rotor lately?)

My input:
I used brembo slotted rotors, carbotech xp8's and xp10's with high temp brake fluid, i don't have the brand off the top of my head. With this setup, i experienced not a single ounce of brake fade in 100+ temperatures at road atlanta.

I like GRM, but they lost me at the NASCAR referrence. ;) Also, that logic, comparing NASCAR and F1, would lead me to believe that everyone should be running small diameter rims with high sidewall tires, instead of plus-two, etc. and low profile tires. GRM is the bomb and they know what they are talking about, so I'll shut up now.

[luTTz]

I like GRM, but they lost me at the NASCAR referrence. ;) Also, that logic, comparing NASCAR and F1, would lead me to believe that everyone should be running small diameter rims with high sidewall tires, instead of plus-two, etc. and low profile tires. GRM is the bomb and they know what they are talking about, so I'll shut up now.

yeah, well they were referring to the brake rotors, not the tires.

Nascar guys now are jacking the car all the way down on the coils so they are running like go-karts and just using the tires as a spring, they are all messed up. haha

[Jand3rson]

I won't lie, I went with the Powerslots mostly because of them being great rotors, but also for the looks. I think the slotted ones just look cool, and they also still perform great.

[golde30]

I went through 2 sets of cross drilled Zimmermans when I had my e36
and was into that sort of thing On a street car they're purely aesthetic and serve no purpose other than looks.

Both sets warped on me. Oem blanks are fine, they're cheaper and have less of a chance of warping or vibrating.

true and true. if you want better bite, get some better brake pads and change your fluid.

[Jand3rson]

For shizzle. When I did my brakes recently, I did all 4 rotors (brembo OEM in the rear), Hawk HPS pads, SS lines and full bleed with new fluid. Made all the difference in the world.