my key fits everything but the drivers door but its like there is no power to the CL system, no clicks, trunk is manual and can be locked same as pass door....fuse? relay? any ideas?
has anyone ever fixed their central locking on an e30?
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Hmmm, mine locks...then unlocks super annoying.~ Puch Cafe. ~ Do business? feedback ~ Check out my leather company ~
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~ '87 325 M30B35 swap
~ '87 535
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I am in the same boat, my keys fits everything but I have zero power sound etc. I found this troubleshooting guide that looks pretty solid. Depending on how long it takes to knock out the brake job this weekend, I will take a crack at the central locking and report back.
Thank god, R3V was getting boring since the ginger kid wrecked his car. - StoneaComment
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this is good infoI am in the same boat, my keys fits everything but I have zero power sound etc. I found this troubleshooting guide that looks pretty solid. Depending on how long it takes to knock out the brake job this weekend, I will take a crack at the central locking and report back.
http://nomad-bmw.blogspot.com/2012/1...ng-issues.htmlComment
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I need to do this soon, passenger side is stiff, driver side doesn't lock all of them. I have to lock from the trunk to make all the locks work. But hey, at least they lock!
Here's another article.
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Anyon ever remove the lock cylinder on a 4 door? I'm guessing i need to get the window regulator out of my way..Comment
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So just to follow up with mine, I found the issue; it was the PO.
Actually the key cylinder is shot and will unlock but not lock the door. Because of the (stupid IMHO) double lock feature the lock cylinder arm is I believe solid in one direction but spring loaded in the other direction so you can do the 90 degree turn double lock feature (over-engineered?). SO after years of use it failed in one direction. I am guessing as a result, the PO just went ahead and disabled everything by (luckily) just disconnecting the arms from the actuators and removing the gas cap actuator. By sheer luck I pulled a complete gas cap actuator from a junked 325 a few weeks ago because I happen to see it in the trunk. I plugged it up and bam, if I push the latch in the door with my hand everything works like a charm except the passenger door. I still have to check the passenger door, hopefully the actuator is in there and just disconnected like everywhere else in the car.
What sucks is I have the car torn apart and I have to put it back together for this weekend then I will have to take the drivers door back apart to rebuild the key cylinder. Although technically I could just skip that and put wireless entry on it since I know it works now.
Anyway, i will report back but I will be using the link provided above to rebuild the key cylinder with a $26 OEM kit from ebay, so thanks for posting that.
Hopefully this helps someone else. If you have absolutely no power, no noise or clicking like me, check the red/black wire gong into the unit to make sure it has juice and / or pull the driver door card and move the mechanism to see if it triggers the CLCU. Also, you have to flip the mechanism in the door so it thinks it it closed or the locking won't trigger. I assumed it was electrical which was totally wrong.Thank god, R3V was getting boring since the ginger kid wrecked his car. - StoneaComment
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Also, on that note the double lock microswitch is missing an arm but I honestly don't want / need this feature. anyone know if I can simply unplug the microswitch and everything will still work? I can just tie it up in the door like the PO but I 'd rather clean up the connections if I can.Thank god, R3V was getting boring since the ginger kid wrecked his car. - StoneaComment
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mine's never worked since I've owned it, i know the passenger side actuator is gone (i have one to put in) trunk and doors work manually (when i turn the key you can hear a relay click but thats it)1991 325i - "Scambles" The Daily Driven lightly modded.
1988 Mazda RX-7 TII "Mako" The Free Dorito
bacon by Jared Laabs, on FlickrComment
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looking at wiring diagram indicates you can just leave the micro switch disconnected or removed and the deadbolt/lock inhibit function wont activate but normal locking will function ok as the switches for normal lock/unluck are in the lock motors themselves and as long as they are functioning/connected central locking should work....proof of this is those on which the activation arm on the driver door lock tumbler is broken(common,its the part that hits the microswitch) and they dont have deadbolt/lock inhibit but just central locking.Also, on that note the double lock microswitch is missing an arm but I honestly don't want / need this feature. anyone know if I can simply unplug the microswitch and everything will still work? I can just tie it up in the door like the PO but I 'd rather clean up the connections if I can.Angus
88 E30M3 X2
89 325IX
92 R100GS/PD
:)Comment
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yes, pnp lockcyl arm and control box fixed it, my driver door dome even started to work.sigpic
Reich und Roll!Comment
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Yeah, I have rebuilt the driver door lock. It's just harder to see and work with than the 2-door. No need to touch any window parts, just move the glass up after taking the door card off...
Mine was pretty simple to fix... New (to me...) central locking box, and a door lock rebuild kit from pelican did the trick. I followed the directions seen on the link below, and it was really no different with the 4-door.
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So, passenger side was just disconnected like the rest, put everything together and it works like a charm. My tumbler in the drivers side and key works great so instead of pulling the door card again etc I used sone heavy duty wire I have and ran it around the back of the tumbler. Voila, solid turning in both directions. I know it's not a long term fix but there are so many other things to do and with a keyless kit on the way, rebuilding the tumbler is low on my priority list right now.Last edited by Mwishlist; 07-17-2014, 10:32 AM.Thank god, R3V was getting boring since the ginger kid wrecked his car. - StoneaComment

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