E30 from Ukraine - "Shadow of Intelligence"

[The_Glory]

Body repair_04. Let's go for welding

The next evening, finally, having waited for the tow truck, which was more than an hour late, we loaded up and moved out to the welder.







The neighbors looked at this process with surprise, and one even came up to clarify - is this the same one, my car ....? :) After my affirmative answer, he expressed sincere regret - "very sorry ((... she was so beautiful ... and the color was so interesting ..." :) Apparently, he thought that I had taken it apart and was taking it to ferrous metal :) After my promise that after painting it will become even better, he nodded approvingly and said: "Ah, well then!" )) Unexpectedly, but it's nice that my "thirty" is not indifferent to the neighbors either)) In some way, even the local "attraction" was)))
Having received the neighbor's "blessing" :), we move forward.
As they say - "He said" Let's go! "And waved his hand!" (With) :)



We drove, by the way, not so very slowly - I thought tow trucks drive slower and more accurately. By the way, my E30 was driving on a tow truck for the first time.
Right row



Left row



middle row



And this is at a speed of 100+



And on empty straight lines and a little more)



Either he was making up for his lateness, or he was just a "racer")) But anyway, we arrived when it started to get dark, so I didn't take pictures on the spot, and so far nothing interesting. We talked with the welder, discussed further plans, goals and prospects, estimated the scope of work, and returned home.
I hope that the "ice has broken" and further news will be more interesting;)

[The_Glory]

Body repair_05. BBS body kit repair, preparation

Work on the body began only recently, so there is no news yet. We started with the most problematic place - the engine shield and the driver's floor. Maybe one of these days I will go and see how it is and what happened.
While there is still time, I decided to deal with the body kit, since it will need to be installed and adjusted before painting. From the current set, I only have the rear apron, which needs to be glued. The front apron will be the same, but more correct - precisely under M20V25 with an oil radiator, with slots for blowing it. But the ego also needs to be glued a little. Well, finally the rapids with foliage, which I have been looking for for so long, have finally arrived! ) But there is a small jamb there that needs to be eliminated.
To begin with, I thoroughly washed/cleaned all the parts. Here is all my BBS treasure))











And also BBS on the "nightstand")


I'll also bring it to mind and paint it....and we'll see there....maybe I'll change it to suit my mood ;)
The steering wheel also needs to be brought to mind, but more on that later.
I'll say right away - I'm not going to sell anything from this! )

The difference between the front aprons - the upper one is new with additional slots for blowing the oil radiator:



It also has slots on the bottom, apparently for factory protection of the engine:



Well, the new one shows a strange factory solution for access to the towing eye - a slot that is closed with a "Velcro" cover. I already wrote about this before.
On the old one, I made a plug for the towing loop. But this "collective farm" looks no worse than the factory "collective farm with Velcro"))) Therefore, I don't know what to do - rearrange the plug, or make a cover with Velcro, as it was in the original?
From the inside, the new apron does not look perfect, but it is much better than the old one, which was assembled from pieces.



Well, now, actually about the upcoming repair. As you know, including from my own experience, it is not easy to repair a BBS body kit. It is made of durable and flexible polyurethane, but if it does manage to break, then it will not work simply by gluing or soldering it - it is very poorly glued and does not solder at all, but simply burns out. Therefore, in the past, after several unsuccessful attempts to glue it with various "super mega glues", I sent the body kit for repair to a special office, where they glued it to me with something similar to body polyurethane sealant. They did not seal it cheaply, but it was quite high-quality. But all the same, "thanks" to my clearance, after several rather hard contacts with the curbs, cracks appeared, and then the joints split completely, despite the internal riveted "exoskeleton" made of metal! )) I didn't want to repeat it again, so I started looking for other, more reliable, repair methods. Googled the repair of polyurethane body kits with the help of a 2-component polyurethane compound. Inspired by my colleague's experience and convinced that it works, I decided to follow the same path! I bought everything necessary for the repair - anti-silicone, primer for plastic, mesh, adhesive compound, sandpaper, putty and, just in case, body sealant:



The main component is a polyurethane 2-component adhesive composition Terason 9225sf produced by the firm Henkel.



I was looking for Terason 9225, but only Terason 9225sf was available - super fast, i.e. with greater speed of grasping. By the way, it is even a little cheaper, but you will have to work with it faster. ) It is not cheap for such a volume - about $18 for 50 ml. In the photo, I put a pen for comparison - the tube is not very big... I hope it will be enough for me...



By the way, a special pistol is needed for it, but the seller said that for one-time use, it is possible to do without it, since its price is also not pleasing. I will even invent... )
In the set, a tube, a nozzle for it, and a large detailed instruction with pictures in 12 languages, except Ukrainian)





In principle, everything is clear and nothing complicated, especially since there is also a video on the Internet. But about the process and the result in the next entry.

P.S.
Finally, I will have a rear number plate light, which was brewed for some reason even before me)
New Hella lamps:



To be continued.

[The_Glory]

Body repair_06. The most difficult part of the bodywork is done.

And the ice has broken! )
Finally, the process has begun! ) Work began from the most difficult and problematic place - the platform under the fuse box and the left side member. From the donor piece was cut live area with support rack and part of the spar and welded instead of my rotten. Holes were drilled in my support, so at the same time they also changed it. An insert under the beam was already welded into the left spar, so at the same time it was replaced with a whole donor spar.



The motor shield was leveled and a crack welded in it - it's easier than changing it. The floor from the cabin was re-welded in one piece, instead of the old patches.
After checking the geometry, it turned out that the left side did not hold out after an accident by almost 1 cm! I always disliked her, and as it turned out, for good reason)
The niche of the body pillar was jammed, which is between the wheel and the body hinges. I hit the front part relatively not hard, but even before me, according to the previous owner, it was hit hard on the left side - that's when the wheel hushed up this niche and pulled the body pillar. Now it’s clear why the gap along the frame of the driver’s door was different, and I only sinned on the hinges ....
In general, everything was pulled out to the factory dimensions, now the gaps on the door are even.



But the loops still need to be changed, but I can not find them. If suddenly someone has left rear (or live front) hinges that are not collapsible until the age of 85, I’ll buy it.
On the supports, too, everything is in factory sizes, by the way, just in case, they put my home-made spacer - it became almost perfect on the new support)



It will be necessary to buy later for Feng Shui, some branded old school one;)
The front frame was also pulled out, but there were dents on it, well, you need to weld brackets for the radiator from the restyling on it, so I will change it completely to the restyled one, along with the hood hinge mechanism - the backlash is wild there ...



They cut off the left threshold - the inner threshold, in principle, is alive - thanks to good processing. We welded only the places of the jacks. Well, a couple more patches on the bottom. On this, at the moment, that's all for now ... The welder has a vacation for two weeks, so the "commercial break" is until August))

I immediately talked about painting - it’s even complicated there .... the painter disappeared somewhere, when it’s not clear, or it will be different ... if it is ... it’s not known how he paints .... and the price is mine I didn’t like it very much, as for such a paint job .... Therefore, I previously “signed up” for painting with my painter, who painted it back in 2000, and then painted the front after my accident and then painted the BBS body kit for me. I am more than satisfied with the quality - for an 18 year old paintwork still looks quite normal. For many, a couple of years after painting, it looks worse ...
One of these days, maybe I’ll go to him to look at colors ... but they, damn it, are all different! Which one to choose .... difficult ...)

[The_Glory]

[B] Body repair_07. Thresholds and front frame. [/ B]

The welder's vacation is over - since the beginning of August, work, although slower, but still continues ...
Both thresholds were welded, jacks were made, drainage drains of the thresholds were restored, the old inserts in the front corners were redone, more accurate, repeating the original shape of the floor.



The seams are not completely cleaned yet.





It’s a real problem with the hinges of the driver’s door - they don’t exist anywhere at all .... (If someone in Ukraine has one, write, I’ll buy it very much! These are, only without backlashes (although this, it seems, is unlikely)



Apparently, you still have to sharpen new bushings, and restore your own ...

As I wrote in the previous entry, the front part has already been brought to the factory dimensions, but on my frame since the last accident there were traces of straightening, and now more fresh ones have been added. It’s not that they were very conspicuous, or it’s very crooked there, but after painting, it will spoil the view ... You can, of course, putty, or score ... but I’ll know that they are there !. ..)) Therefore, in order not to get upset every time I open the hood, I decided to change the frame to a whole one. Moreover, in any case, on mine it was necessary to add lower brackets for a restyled radiator, so that it would stand normally, without a collective farm from improvised means)) But they already exist on the new frame. I don’t want to install the “correct” radiator before restyling, mine will remain, with a built-in expansion tank - not according to Feng Shui, but it looks neater. I don’t like the expansion tank before the restyling at all, but there is nowhere to put the restyling, I have an automatic oil filling tank there.
Therefore, I bought a fresher frame from the touring, plastic inserts into it under the radiator, and at the same time the front hood loop with whole bushings, since on mine they were worn out into the trash, and the hood staggered wildly to the sides when open.





There was a sticker on the frame that I had never seen before:



Such a German warning, in which the Germans sternly warn that if you change at least one nut in the car for a non-original one, then they cannot vouch for themselves !!! )))



I also brought fenders, all sorts of shields there, so that they could weld the missing mounting studs under the plastic nuts everywhere. I also brought the BBS lining, so that the gaps would be set already taking into account its installation.
Well, that's all for now.

P.S.
I also went to the painter, looked at samples, paints ... I don’t know what to choose! ....)))

[The_Glory]

In the meantime, I’m dealing with other issues - I painted the ceiling, tried to glue the BBS, dismantled the motor in order to paint the collector in a more decent color, otherwise some people laughed at it from the first day))))

About the ceiling:

S775A Anthracite headlining

All E30 models in the "M-Technic" retrofit package were equipped with a black headlining - ANTHRAZIT.
I have long wanted such a ceiling for myself, but the prospect of removing the windshield and rear window to install it stopped me and I put it off for later ... Now the glass has been removed and I remembered the black ceiling! ) But looking for it on ebay, I went nuts from the current prices for it !! In addition, for a 4-door sedan with a sunroof - this is generally a super rarity - I've seen it on sale twice all the time - I had to take it for $ 100 then :)
In addition, judging by the photo, and the words of my friend, who put himself such a ceiling, this ceiling in the original was not made of another, completely black fabric, but simply painted black on the front side.
Photo from ebay outside - black:



He is white on the inside.



So I decided to paint my ceiling black with suede paint. Farm, you say? Well, to some extent, you will be right! But if there is no difference in fabric, cut, or fasteners, but only in color, then why pay more? ? ) What's the difference - they dyed the fabric 30 years ago, then sewed it and installed it, or installed it, drove it for 30 years, and then dyed it? )) In the second case, the view will be even fresher) Therefore, I consider such a "collective farm" acceptable! )) Moreover, I have already seen how people painted with ordinary spray paint and skin paint - it looked good.
In general, my ceiling was, anyway, not in the best condition - dirt and stains, it seems, from the glue with which it was last glued during assembly. By the way, what kind of glue should be used to glue it so that there are no stains?



Therefore, I decided to wash it well - first with a cleaning paste, then with another powder with a brush, on both sides. Much better, but not perfect.



I bought 3 large cans of black suede paint and painted in two coats. Enough was enough.



But, damn it, those same glue stains still showed up on black !!



I bought another spray and painted it in the third layer - now it seems to be normal, but we'll see ...

While it's still warm, I gave the interior and trunk carpet for dry cleaning - it became much better.





You will also need to clean the side panels of the trunk.

[The_Glory]

Our VII Festival 2018 passed a long time ago, I, accordingly, was without E30, so I did not write anything in my blog, as I have nothing to brag about)).



But the other day, our photographer posted a video that I want to share ;)

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tpPeUyuZLUA


Well, there were a couple of photos with me - I stood all day with the flag, I didn't really see anything - as usual))





Although, I looked into some cars)



Some seller of buns with a "mother-in-law" walked along the highway all the time and yelled))



There were many cars, I counted about 100.



...everyone drove and drove... )





There was even such a one! 320is



And such)





In our traditional contest for the best car of the Festival, the beautiful blue cabriolet of Andrey TATARIN won:



Three prize winners in the sprint:
1st place - Vlad Mad_Max, (Odessa) and his combat thirty



2nd place - Polezhaka, (Kyiv) on a cool drift car



3rd place - Ruslan Rulchyk, (Kyiv) and his strange car



It was great, I hope everyone liked it!
See you next year....I hope too...

PS
Another video from the previous festival in 2017:

https://youtu.be/Zk-dPRDoSUs

[Tom Galloway]

Glory to Ukraine - with guys like you the 'orcs' are meat,

[The_Glory]

Glory to Ukraine - with guys like you the 'orcs' are meat,

Thanks

[The_Glory]

[B] Body repair_08. Repair body kit BBS, attempt number 1 (unsuccessful) [/ B]

After preparation, I still started the process itself.
As the "book" writes, he sawed through the cracks so that the sealant would completely fill them.





I riveted metal linings to the inner edges - for greater reliability, since they will not be visible anyway.
And on the front front part, I screwed a temporary overlay onto the crack, for rigidity at the time of work.



For this sealant, you need a special small gun, which I could not find from anyone to take to use. And to buy it new for 60+ bucks for a one-time job, I didn’t want to...))
Therefore, I made myself such an "adapter" for a conventional sealant gun. I drilled a piece of wood and inserted two long bolts into it.



I inserted these bolts into a tube and tried to shove it all together into a regular gun - it didn’t work out - it fell out)) But I was already determined,)) so I decided to manually squeeze out the sealant with this crap. And almost immediately something went wrong! ) The effort had to be applied more than I expected, so I pressed so normally! )) The bolts turned out to be not very even, and first in one tube, and then in another, the piston was warped, and instead of evenly mixing the two components in the spout, they climbed from all sides, each by itself! ))))
In general, I mixed what came out of all the holes also by hand - like a putty with a hardener)) I threw out most of it, because it hardens pretty quickly. And in the end, I sealed only the two smallest cracks, which I thought to glue if there was a sealant, but it turned out the other way around! )) I didn’t apply it to the front parts in this form ...
Outside:





From the inside:





But even despite such a "technology" of gluing,)) the apron stuck together perfectly! I tried to bend and twist it in these places - it holds!
The sealant is good - you need to take more! ))) But there is still a problem with the gun, and greed, as before, does not allow me to buy it ....))) can anyone have it? ;)



And then the second time to make an "adapter" for some reason is not a hunt already ....)

[The_Glory]

Body repair_09. Rear arches.

Instead of an epigraph - a quote from the "commandments of the thirty":
2. You think your body is still alive... until you start repairing the rear arches! (c)

I recently visited my thirty. The work is very slow, but still going.
Made front platforms and arches on both sides



We welded the edge of the seal near the wipers - I hope there will be no problems with welding near the VIN ...



Such a surprise was found in the left corner, although outwardly everything looked normal - they cut it out



The right wing on the bottom is already ready, the left one is just tacked on.



New front frame installed.



The right tow hook has been rebuilt.



There are gaps on the front and doors - everything seems to be smooth, but we will still look at everything assembled.
On the bottom, the old places of welding were brought into a more decent form and new holes were welded over the tank.



Restored left speaker cutout



Right still in progress



Now let's move on to the rear inner arches! ))
The left one, on which there was a large hole at the junction with the trunk floor, has been made.





Just a little clean up



But the right one, which looked quite normal, turned out to be just trash! Under the layers of anticorrosive, old welding was discovered and such a surprise



Complete Armageddon!



Now it is not surprising that the hose shield rotted into dust and it is clear why the right wheel was littered a little more than the left ...
Cut it all to hell



And restored the spar over the spring plate





The spare wheel niche also looks quite sad, so we decided to amputate it.



On the phone, for some reason, the welder called the rotten upper spring plate a support, and said that she had died .... I was very surprised, since the support looked alive. But in my understanding, the support is where the amortization is screwed. As a result of such a "misunderstanding" I decided not to cut out the support, but to buy the entire inner arch, but in the end I bought the entire rear wing in general. ))





But, for the campaign, only a spring plate is useful from it ...
And a spare bucket.
We agreed that by my next visit, everything that had been started would be completed. I'll be back soon to see...

[The_Glory]

2019 Club Calendar

And again, the traditional record of the club calendar)
This year we almost forgot about it, but at the request of caring teammates, we decided not to break the tradition! )) And they did it in a short time, and even managed to do it before the New Year. By the way, thanks to all the participants for the efficiency and organization.
Well, Happy New Year everyone! )



7 cars from the TOP12 of our OLD SCHOOL E30 contest and the remaining 5 cars by general vote got into the calendar.



My car also got into it, which is good news, although I doubted it a little)





And they gave me two gifts - beautiful and useful)



Useful plastics.



Beautiful monochrome picture on the board.



Thanks to Lesha and Yura.

P.S.
The calendar is no longer available. Who did not have time - he was late! )

P.P.S.
Here is such a "still life" of pieces of iron that has been in the garage for more than a month - some need to be sanded and painted, some for electroplating, some just wash / clean / sort out ... but until the hands reach even ....



On occasion, I bought another set of door trims in color 0211 ANTHRAZIT, aka houndstooth black.



The idea of a salon in this color does not leave me) I already wrote about such a fabric on my blog and I also bought the back of the rear seat just in case;) I had such door trims, but I bought these because in my front "music lovers" embedded speakers inside pockets - you can't seal a hole)) And I also really want a coin box in my pocket, but because of this speaker, it doesn't fit there. Now you can put it on! )





The door trim needs to be washed / cleaned, of course, but in general, the condition is good, except for one hole from the self-tapping screw ... but it is almost invisible)

[The_Glory]

Body repair_10. Interim result.

Finally completed part of the welding work described in the previous post. From the front, it looked like a car again. )



I already miss this pretty muzzle! )









Under the hood, too, everything is already welded.













On the bottom, it remains only to weld the studs for the tubes - we almost forgot about them)





Returned the previous look to the places for the speakers



Welded rear right side member





By the way, the rear right "quarter" from the touring, which I bought, was never useful - only the upper spring plate was taken from it.

Welded the right pocket



All welds will then be sanded and checked.
In general, the process is underway, the first results are already there, it pleases). The ass remained)) - the rear external arches, the spare wheel niche, the bottom of the apron and the little things on the doors - I never found the hinges ....
Well, the biggest problem is the roof, in which the hatch trough at the junction with the roof has rotted .... The welder suggests changing the entire roof, as he says that patches and putty on the roof are 100% cracks after some time ... Even I don’t know what to do .... I’ll try to look for a roof under 4 doors without rust.
Welding continues...)

[The_Glory]

Body repair_11. The finish line is not far away.

It feels like somewhere soon there will be an exit to the finish line in welding! ) At least, the light at the end of the welding tunnel is already a little visible)) I'm already tired of this endless welding - I want to paint already! )))
In general, both rear arches are welded, but so far there are photos only on the right side.







Holes formed under the hatch of the tank



The repair insert of the arch, unfortunately, does not reach there, therefore, in order not to spoil the “quarter” from the touring with ideal arches that was not useful (by the way, it is for sale), I had to buy another piece of the wing around the hatch. Now it’s already clear that it was easier to change the entire wing, but already “we have what we have” (c)



In the process, it turned out that the back panel on the bottom was not slightly rotten, since it had been welded / patched there several times already, and not very well. The edge of the seal in some places also rotted to dust, the holes for the backlight of the number were welded up before me, and they had to be returned. Therefore, in order not to follow the same rake as with the right rear arch, I decided to buy a whole new rear panel.



On the advice of a familiar seller, I ordered Polcar - like Poland, but made in Taiwan)





Net weight indicated on the box is 5kg.



I heard many times that China/Taiwan is made from thinner metal, almost from foil, so I decided to check the weight and compare it with the weight of the original panel.



....and..... still 5kg!



We go to the ETK and look at the original back panel for pre-restyling (41 34 1 924 868):
http://2009.bmw-autocats.ru/parts/E3...nel_tail_trim/

Its weight indicated in the ETK is 4.6 kg
That's it! ) From which we can conclude that the back panel of Polcar is made of normal metal, not foil, and even thicker than in the original )
In appearance, the quality of the panel is very decent - the planes are even, the bends seem to be normal, all the holes are in place ...





But we'll see how it turns out...

For welding, small things were still made on the doors, the missing studs were welded on the bottom and in the arches.
After replacing the rear panel, only the roof with a sunroof will remain ... This will already be the long-awaited finish line! ) But as they say - "the last fight - he is the most difficult one!" (c) As the result of the search showed, there are no E30 roofs with a sunroof without rust ((... so I don’t know what to do - take a roof with minimal rust, or try to do something with my own ... I don’t want to refuse the sunroof - I really like him)

[The_Glory]

[B] Body repair_12. Roof - an autopsy showed ... [/ B]

Today I visited my thirty, took the back panel to the welder, and saw, so to speak, the results of opening the roof .... sadness, sadness ... ((
Now in order.
The rear panel began to be cleaned - there were already a bunch of patches one on top of the other, the edging for the trunk seal was rotten, the holes for backlighting the number plate were welded before me.



Therefore, it was decided to change it entirely to a new one - I wrote about this in a previous entry.

Both rear arches are already welded.
Left arch:





Right arch and hatch:





Also welded a hole in the trunk lid.



As it turned out, this is easier and better than changing the lid to the one I bought - since there, too, it was necessary to restore a similar corner, only on the other side. There will be a cover in reserve, or I will sell it - I have not decided yet.
Shelves are welded under the rear door vents, and on the front right, under a tiny bug, there was such a normal hole!



And I thought that this door was generally ideal ... I am becoming more and more convinced that the ideal bodywork for the E30 at car dismantling does not exist anymore ...
Welded a whole and beautiful spare wheel niche.





Still in the factory, perfectly preserved, sealant.



What can not be said about the bottom, over the tank still needs to be welded.



The rest is already cooked, including pipe pins, etc.



General view of the forthcoming front of work on cleaning the bottom from bitumen and other mastics.



Today we went with a friend and a repair colleague) We treated his car with sealant, just as it was from the factory - I liked it .... I would like to do the same ....



But I don’t know how to remove all that bitumen ... we’ll see.

And now about the main problem - the roof. They opened those places where there were already large bubbles on the paint - and the autopsy showed that there was a complete armageddon!





The right joint of the trough of the hatch and the roof:







Left-hand side:





In general, with a roof complete fucked up! At least change the trough ... or maybe together with the roof ... But it's not realistic to find a roof with a sunroof without rust on the E30. Vicious circle. At least give up the hatch ...

[The_Glory]

[B] Multiple start interruption (immobilizer) [/ B]

Welding is welding, and no one has canceled the search for new options! ))

For a long time I noticed this thing in the ETK, but its name was somehow incomprehensible, and it seemed to me that it was something very complicated, and connected with the motor ...
http://2009.bmw-autocats.ru/parts/E3..._interruption/

Therefore, I always put it off for "later" and did not particularly delve into this topic. But now the collection of options is nearing completion and, as they say, the time has come! )
I googled on foreign forums, since I have never seen this thing on our forums in the E30. There is not much information, but enough to deal with this option. By the way, in the list of factory original options for the E30, it sounds like this:
900 Anerkannte Wegfahrsicherung lt. AZT/TÜV (Approved immobilizer according to AZT / TÜV)

Digression: As far as I know, at that time insurance companies introduced a mandatory requirement for car insurance - the presence of an immobilizer that meets TÜV requirements. And the ridiculously primitive "immobilizer" of the regular BC of the CODE function could not meet these requirements, since it turned off when the terminal was removed from the battery)) Therefore, apparently, the Germans decided to do something about it! )

As you can see from the name and description, this is a regular immobilizer, which is the next "step" in the development of the factory anti-theft system with a magnetic key, which I have already installed and is working. In fact, these systems duplicate each other, partially complementing - the first is more of a security system, as it reacts to unauthorized entry into the cabin, and is deactivated from the outside with a magnetic key, and the second is more anti-theft, as it is deactivated already in the cabin, immediately before launch engine, a special key with a chip. We get two lines of defense! )) Although, one of them was usually set. By today's standards, of course, this protection is primitive, but my goal was not protection, but more - just to find a rare option! ))
This option was available for E30, Z1, E31, E32, E34, E36, but judging by EVA - only since 1994. Therefore, it is rare, and especially on the E30. It is still available to order a new one, but the price is not small. The key and lock can also be bought new separately, but I still do not understand how then it is "attached" to the ECU ...
You can also find a used one, but the truth is often without a key or with a cut off wiring. In the latter case, the meaning of the purchase tends to zero ... And that's why - since this is an anti-theft system, the Germans decided to stun a potential hijacker who decided to turn off this system, and made ALL 17 wires in its two "braids" of the same black color! )) From the factory, each wire had a plastic "tag" with the wire number, and the pinout of the numbers was indicated only in the EVA factory installation instructions, in which there was a strong recommendation - after installing and checking the operation of the system, remove all tags from all wires - " and ends in the water!" (c) Harsh!? )) That's the same! )
Therefore, finding a complete set, with intact wiring and preserved wire markings, is good luck! And she smiled at me! )) Who seeks - he will find! (c) Moreover, I found it quite quickly and nearby - with a long-time comrade in E30;) And even one and a half sets! )



The first was without a key and without a combination lock.



Obviously, either after a repeated and slightly "collective farm" installation, or the electrician was so severe that he immediately cut off the excess length of all the wires and twisted them into twists, simplifying the factory connection and inserting into the wiring as much as possible. )) This is not our method! (With) ))



A little later, in the bins, a friend also found a complete set, with a key and a lock, which Andrey himself once rented for himself, like from E32. Thank you for this fit! )




Therefore, everything is already neat here - all the connectors and pins are in place, the mating connectors from the body wiring are cut off with pieces of wires with color.





Moreover, by some miracle, on all 17 black wires, factory tags with numbers have been preserved, and some are also signed "by hand"!







There should be two keys in the set, but it's good that there is at least one, although its body is slightly damaged and a home-made "eye" is attached to it for hanging the key.



Removed the "collective farm" and laundered the key from the adhesive tape.



Hope it will work! The operation algorithm is simple - before starting the motor, you need to firmly lean the key against its combination lock - the "button" in the center of the key socket is pressed and thus the wiring interrupt system is deactivated. Several circuits are broken, including the fuel pump, but the electrical circuit could not be found - during installation I will figure out which circuits are broken.
An interesting point - on the wiring of the lock, one wire is copper, and the other two are made of white, harder metal - I wonder why ...



ECU block





Guarantee



In my bins I found the factory installation instructions for EVA, printed out the source code in German, translated into English, and inspired by the presence of tags on the wires, in the middle of the night, quickly, translated the pinout into Ukrainian! )) Everything turned out to be much easier than it could be!



The rest is a matter of time, and a matter of technique! )) After installation, I will make a report, maybe I will translate the instructions, although there is nothing particularly complicated in English either. Although, I don’t think that besides me, there will be many more who want to install an ancient alarm system, especially if there is already one ancient one! )
In the meantime, "Multiple start abort" will be waiting for the completion of welding / painting and its time to install!



P.S.
Another coin in the piggy bank "crow's feet"! )
E30 colleague FallenAngel88 donated these skins, for which I thank him.



The condition is so-so, but maybe the fabric will come in handy for the waist of the armrests... or maybe not... but let it be...;)
Well, now there is another complete set of pens and pockets for cards - we can also come in handy ...