E30 from Ukraine - "Shadow of Intelligence"

[The_Glory]

Air conditioner compressor sensors

In the post about trying to refill the air conditioner, I wrote that in addition to the burst hose, there were problems with the air conditioner compressor pressure sensor. So, I need to figure it out. Maybe this information is somewhere on the Internet, but I couldn't find it, so I had to figure it out myself. I will describe everything, as always, in as much detail as possible, maybe it will be useful to someone.

I have three sensors - I have already written about them in the relevant section.


Safety air switch (64 53 1 390 070) new for E30, E32, E34 4 pins (black and white connectors)
Safety air switch (64 53 8 390 971) for E30 2 pins (black connector)
Safety air switch (64 53 8 390 536) - for E23 4 pins (black and white connectors)

On my wiring, the connector for the low pressure sensor was cut off, and the connector for the high pressure sensor was an early model, with two flat black contacts, type like this:


All my sensors had different connectors:


I solved this not-so-big problem with a homemade adapter. But looking at the ETM diagrams for different years of production, it became clear that there were some differences in the connection of these sensors.

On the 86 diagram, there were two separate high (black connector) and low (white connector) pressure sensors that were connected to the air conditioner wiring in series, one after the other.


The low pressure sensor opened in the event of a freon leak and a critical pressure drop. The high pressure sensor closed at a pressure of 21.2 bar, and opened when it reached 26.6 bar.

In the 87 scheme, there were two separate high (white connector) and low (black connector) pressure sensors, which were connected to the air conditioner wiring in series, one after the other. The sensors were simply swapped in the scheme, and the color of the connectors. The operating pressure ranges of the sensors remained the same as they were.


I don't really understand why they did this, but it's not critical - it practically didn't change anything, because the connection diagram remained serial. In addition, they added a serial temperature sensor on the compressor. Although, on later diagrams it is no longer there. But now we are not talking about it.

On my old dryer there was a fitting for installing two separate sensors. But on the new dryer the fitting was only for one sensor. That is, there was no place to physically install the second sensor. I had to look at an even later diagram.

On the 90 diagram there were already two high and low pressure sensors, connected serially one after the other, but physically they were located in the same housing, with one black connector. The white connector was removed from the diagram altogether. That is, it was already a double sensor - for both low and high pressure. The high pressure limit was increased to 30 bar.


In fact, nothing has changed in the circuit itself - in any case, both sensors are connected in series one after the other, and for the compressor to work, they must both be closed. Since my wiring had both black and white connectors, I decided to install a new original sensor (64 53 1 390 070) with white and black connectors. This seemed logical. Accordingly, I connected them that way - white to white, black to black. At the same time, the compressor did not start until I disconnected the white connector and installed a jumper in the wiring instead of the sensor. At first, I thought that the sensor was faulty. Although, it is new and original. But then I thought the cuts on the insulation of the white connector wires were suspicious.


I tried to "ring" them with a multimeter, and it turned out that the white and black connectors are not connected in series! Strange. The situation became clear thanks to a friend who also installs air conditioning. He bought an analogue of the sensor, on which its parameters were marked:


HP 32 OFF - high pressure 32 bar is off

MP 17 ON - medium pressure 17 bar is on

LP 2 OFF - low pressure 2 bar is off

Judging by this, the low pressure sensor closes at a pressure of 2 bar, and the high pressure sensor opens at a pressure of 32 bar. And they both work only through the black connector. And the white connector closes at a pressure of 17 bar. This was confirmed by practical testing.
That is, these two connectors should not be in series, which is why in my case a jumper for the white connector on the wiring was needed. And the white connector of the sensor is not used in this case.
But I wonder why that white connector is used then? This sensor (64 53 1 390 070) according to ETK is suitable for E30, E32, E34.

Therefore, the answer to this question was found in the ETM 95 scheme for the E34. It shows a similar sensor (B9508), dual for low and high pressure (B8y) with a black connector (X127). The low pressure sensor opened when the pressure dropped below 1.5 bar and closed at a pressure of 2.6 bar. The high pressure sensor closed at a pressure of 21 bar and opened when it reached 30 bar.


It seems that everything is the same as in the 90 scheme for the E30. But, having scrolled through the following diagram, we find on it the same pressure sensor (B9508), but with another built-in separate sensor (B9y) with a white connector (X126).


But there is probably also an error in the diagram. In practice, this sensor closed at a pressure of 18 bar, turning on the air conditioner fan at maximum speed. After cooling, the pressure dropped to 15 bar and the sensor opens, turning off the fan. That is, this is additional system protection through a third sensor, the use of which in the E30 is not provided for by the diagram.

Now everything is clear. So, having this sensor, I decided to use its additional protective function for the E30 as well. This is not at all difficult to implement - you only need to add two short wires, of the appropriate colors, from the temperature sensor for the maximum fan speed on the radiator to the pressure sensor on the dehumidifier. This is drawn in red on the diagram.


In my case, the temperature sensor is also double, but the circuit is similar.


By the way, the diagrams show in blue the connection of the button for manually turning on the maximum fan speed via the standard relay, and the additional lamp on the OVERHEAT control panel. I have already written about this before.

In order not to cut anything in the wiring, I decided to make another adapter - for the temperature sensor with a parallel white connector for the pressure sensor.
I also made a jumper with the yellow connectors so that they would no longer be confused with the white ones. Because somehow German engineers got a little too clever with these connectors, changing their functionality, but leaving the same colors! ) It's confusing.


So, we connect the adapter to the temperature sensor on the radiator. We connect the air conditioner wiring to its corresponding connector. And we connect the white connector of the pressure sensor to the white connector of the adapter. We connect the black connector of the pressure sensor to the air conditioner wiring, as before, through the adapter. And we install a jumper on the second connector of the air conditioner wiring (now it is yellow, instead of white).




A double, or rather triple, pressure sensor.

It's probably not for nothing that there were slots in the wire insulation - it seems that the previous electrician decided to implement the jumper in the simplest way - by twisting directly on the sensor.
But we're not looking for easy ways! )) The slots are insulated, the adapter is connected. Now it is important not to confuse the white connector of the high beam headlight ))


A third pressure sensor is connected to the adapter.


Thanks to this, if the pressure increases to 17 bar, it will immediately be automatically lowered by the fan, and not grow further, up to the critical 30 bar, and the compressor will turn off. I don’t know why this option was not used in the E30, although this sensor was used there.

A dual low and high pressure sensor is connected via a black connector with an adapter for early-type foam.


A jumper is installed on the second connector of the air conditioner wiring to close the wires in a serial circuit. A yellow connector is installed so as not to be confused with the white ones.


This completes the work with the electrical part and compressor sensors. I hope...

But that's all I managed to do. It never got to the point of replacing the hose, again, for the same reason as last time. But now on a more serious scale. After the new roof on the garage, I had to make a new roof on the house...


Therefore, there is no time, no finances, no energy for cars again... it's all over...

By the way, my E53 will now also have to spend a lot of time and finances - it also got ((


It's good that at least the E30 is in the garage, so it didn't suffer.


But, unfortunately, work on it is again postponed for an unspecified period, so there will probably be no news in the near future...

[The_Glory]

Nothing new...

So, almost a month has passed, but I haven't done anything with the car. The reason, as I said last time - the damn Muscovites!
Well, in the house, the windows, the doors, the roof, the gate, the roof and the gate in the garage - everything has been restored. Well, almost everything... almost restored... But, thank God, it all ended like this.
I can also get back to working on the car. It was in the garage, so, fortunately, it was not damaged. It was only slightly sprinkled with plaster from the ceiling and sand from the floor from the explosions.


I recently left the garage to wash it all off.


I washed it very carefully so as not to damage the paint with plaster and sand. Because it may not live to be polished....


By the way, - a new roof in the garage ) I've been wanting to do something with it for a long time - but the damn Muscovites "helped"...

I washed it.


I went to work several times, received several "respects" from drivers of new BMWs on the way! Nice! :)

Hopefully I'll get around to doing something with that air conditioning hose this week...

[The_Glory]

Air conditioner refill

I drove to work for a few days, in the heat.






And it became clear that the air conditioner urgently needed to be refilled! On the second attempt, I still got to the mechanic.
He liked the car, and he was surprised by its condition and appearance.
We started by evacuating the system.


Then check the tightness of the system with nitrogen.


Pressure 15.5 bar.




We held out for about half an hour - the pressure did not decrease. The master was surprised for the second time! And me too )


Next, repeated vacuuming. All moisture and nitrogen have been removed, the system is sealed. So, you can refuel.


And everything would be fine if it hadn't gotten so bad!...
At first, for some reason the high pressure sensor wouldn't close, although it's new and original. We installed a "jumper" instead - the clutch turned on and the compressor started working. It pumps very well even at idle. This pleased me. But almost immediately, what I was afraid of happened - the old, stiff high-pressure hose couldn't stand it and burst!... The pressure was definitely not exceeded.
This is where the refueling ends...
The hose needs to be replaced, and to do this, almost the entire front of the car needs to be disassembled again, since it goes from the compressor to the condenser.
I was going to have this hose repaired at a specialized service, but unfortunately, they don't give any guarantees. So I remembered that I have a spare original hose - it's good that I'm thrifty! ))


Judging by the number, the hose is from a restyled car, the shape of the tubes is slightly different and it has thermal insulation. I hope it will fit.
Well, I need to somehow check the high pressure sensor, or buy another one.

P.S.
But because of the damned russian monsters and the recent rocket attack on Vyshneve, work on the car is postponed for an indefinite period...
For now, all my strength, time and finances will have to be directed to the restoration and repair of the house and garage... Although, in general, I was also "lucky". Especially considering that it was about 500 meters from my house to the epicenter of the explosions. But still, there is something to do...
It's good that everyone is alive and well. And my cars, surprisingly, were not damaged either.

[The_Glory]

First "photoshoot"

I found a "time capsule" that had been sitting in a chicken coop for 40 years! )))








Just kidding )
My garage is really dusty.... (


Washed away from "age-related" dust.




And finally, a spontaneous improvised first "photo shoot" of the fully assembled car!












[IMG]https://i.ibb.co/Fq3R5yhV/20260624-162132.jpg[/IMG ]















Not everything turned out perfectly, but it looks beautiful, as far as I'm concerned! )
I drove it a little - the car on the road attracts the attention of others!
It gives positive emotions behind the wheel! And that's the main thing. I've been waiting for this for a long time.

P.S.
Tomorrow I'm going to fill up the air conditioner.
Then to adjust the climb.
Then I'll have to stop by for body polishing.
Then I need to bring the rims and tires into proper shape.
And maybe some other "current" little things...
I don't know when I'll do all this...
And then it'll just be "photo shoots"! ;)

[The_Glory]

https://www.rtsauto.com/sanden-compr...-denso-10p15e/

Thanks for the information. I've read about Sanden before, but everything is shown very well here.

[The_Glory]

There are mixes of propane and butane that replace R12.

https://www.rtsauto.com/the-denso-10p15e-ac-air-conditioning-e30-guide/

I already found a place to fill up the R12. I'm going to try it next week.

[The_Glory]

Impressive. Thanks for the detailed writeup and part numbers on the compressor, that will probably help some people out. I had the Seiko Seiki compressor on mine and it was leaking badly from the shaft seal, I wound up adapting a more modern compressor after briefly trying to find parts for it.

Thanks. I'm glad you found this interesting or useful.
I also have another Seiko compressor, and judging by its appearance, it also leaks a lot at the shaft seal. Maybe later I'll try to restore it. My friend did it, finding some kind of repair kit for it on Aliexpress

[Vincenze]

https://www.rtsauto.com/sanden-compressor-conversion-into-an-e30-m20-originally-fitted-with-denso-10p15e/

[Vincenze]

There are mixes of propane and butane that replace R12.

https://www.rtsauto.com/the-denso-10p15e-ac-air-conditioning-e30-guide/

[varg]

Impressive. Thanks for the detailed writeup and part numbers on the compressor, that will probably help some people out. I had the Seiko Seiki compressor on mine and it was leaking badly from the shaft seal, I wound up adapting a more modern compressor after briefly trying to find parts for it.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_201. ETK_64_Heating and air conditioning. (Part 12) Electromagnetic clutch and air conditioner compressor (continued)

So, last time I stopped at the fact that the outlet hose fitting did not screw onto the compressor flange, and the inlet hose fitting did not reach the compressor flange at all.
I started with the simplest - I unscrewed the inlet flange from my compressor and from another, broken compressor. The difference is obvious.


Let me remind you that my "new" compressor was removed from a BMW E34 with an M20B25 engine. And the broken "old" compressor was removed from a BMW E30 with an M20B25 engine. The difference is in the shape of the inlet flange - for the E34 it is straight, and for the E30 it has a slope and an additional valve. Of course, I noticed this immediately, but I thought that the hose could be turned and screwed. But it turned out that its length was not enough for this. Therefore, I will simply replace this flange. I noticed rust residues on the inner mesh, so I cleaned the flange again with a solution of citric acid, rinsed it thoroughly, blew it with air and re-coated it with a cold blueing agent. Now the flange and its inner mesh are perfectly clean.


Complete with a gasket, valve and valve, - ready for installation.


It was more difficult with the outlet hose fitting. Either something got under the thread, or something went wrong, or I'm clumsy... )) But the fitting didn't want to screw onto the compressor flange at all, and the first thread turn was even slightly damaged...


I already thought that I had ruined either the hose or the compressor. But thanks to my brother, I managed to fix everything - he understands these threads and flanges much better than I do. The thread on the compressor flange was "driven" with a similar nut from the fitting of an old air compressor. And to "drive out" the thread on the hose fitting, we had to take a broken compressor as a "donor" - we cut off that flange from it and carefully repaired the thread on the fitting with it.


Here is such a "repair special tool" )


And after that, finally, the outlet hose fitting was in place. Accordingly, the necessary inlet hose flange was installed.




Now the inlet hose is normally in place. Very carefully screw the inlet hose flange to the fitting.


And this is a victory! )) Both hoses are screwed to the compressor.


It seems a bit strange and illogical to me that the inlet hose has thermal insulation, and the outlet hose runs even closer to the exhaust manifold, and does not have thermal insulation.


I checked the photo from ETK - that's how it should be. I even had the idea to install it there additionally.... Does this make sense?


Finally, the air conditioner kit is completely installed!


Now all that remains is to fill it and hope that it will be airtight and will cool well! )

P.S.
By the way, yesterday I drove around my village a little - it's very hot in the car at +36! )
I just stopped by an elderly air conditioner repairman - it's clear that the man has been working in this field for a long time and has the appropriate knowledge, and not just a "refueler" ;) He advised me to contact his colleague, who will easily fill the air conditioner with R12 freon. In addition, he is also nearby, almost near my house. We made a preliminary agreement with him, so I will go and try to fill the air conditioner soon.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_201. ETK_64_Heating and Air Conditioning. (Part 12) Electromagnetic Clutch and Air Conditioning Compressor

Finally, it came to installing the air conditioning compressor on the car - the last part of the ETK on assembling and installing the air conditioning in a BMW E30.

Electromagnetic clutch




Part No. 1 - Bosch/Behr electromagnetic clutch (64 52 1 386 297). Complete with bolt and mounting washer.
Part No. 2 - Bosch/Behr sealing profile (64 52 1 381 193). If I'm not mistaken, judging by the photo on the Internet, this is a plastic compressor shaft seal with a seal. I don't understand why it is shown in this section in the ETK, but I wrote about it in detail in the compressor assembly section.
Part No. 5 - Bosch/Behr thermal switch (64 52 1 385 417). Compressor oil temperature sensor with wiring.

Parts No. 3, No. 4, No. 6, No. 7 are not used.

Air conditioner compressor




Part #1 - air conditioner compressor (64 52 8 385 713). Freon R12.
Different compressors were used for the BMW E30 air conditioner - Bosch/Behr, Seiko/FER, DENSO/Hischier. There are many types of them in the ETK with different numbers. But the main difference is the type of freon. For early versions, R12 freon was used, and for later ones, the more environmentally friendly R134a freon. There are original conversion kits (82 31 9 067 394) from R12 to R134a. But I decided to try to leave the air conditioner on the old R12 freon. Although, this creates some problems with its refueling, due to the fact that it is already very difficult to find in stock. But we are not looking for easy ways! )) Especially since this freon cools much better. So I will try R12 first. If nothing works, then I will have to switch to R134a.

So, the Bosch/Behr compressor is restored and ready for installation.








AVX13x825 V-belt - I have already written about it in the relevant section.


ERRECOM Mineral Oil 46 Lubricant


I will write about the lubricant in more detail. For the old R12 freon, only MINERAL lubricant is used. For R134a freon, synthetic lubricant is used. After talking to our modern "experts", I got the impression that they are not concerned with this issue, and usually pour whatever lubricant they have on hand, regardless of the type of freon or the type of compressor. As a rule, it is something like PAO 68. When I asked about the viscosity of compressor oil, some "experts" were surprised and didn't even know that it can be different, just like for motor oil! )) Unfortunately, now there are only "tick-tock experts" around... So far I haven't been able to find a sensible specialist in car air conditioners who has a specialized education and understands how it works - there are only "refuelers" around who can only fill with whatever they can find. So I had to figure it out myself.
I don't claim to be the truth - all the information is from the Internet.
I found these tables on the use of lubricants for different compressors. Maybe it will also be useful to someone.





According to this table, the Bosch/Behr compressor uses D-90PX grease. This is also indicated on the sticker on the compressor. But I couldn't find such grease anywhere. The table shows PAG100 grease as an equivalent, but this is a synthetic grease that is used when converting to R134a freon. That is, in my case it is not suitable for R12 freon.

I found another table by car brand.



According to this table, for BMW E30 with R134a freon, PAO 68 synthetic grease is used, or according to the original ETK number (81 22 9 407 724), PAG 46 synthetic grease. That is, in both cases it is a synthetic grease, but of different viscosity.
In the same table for the BMW M3 E30 with a piston compressor and R12 freon, Suniso 5GS mineral oil is used. The viscosity of this oil is 100.
So, we already have four options for different lubricants, different viscosities... Probably, you shouldn't trust these tables too much...

So I thought and decided that it would be logical to take only MINERAL lubricant for R12 freon, but of the viscosity that BMW recommends according to the ETK - that is, 46.

It seems to me that this will be correct. After all, the type of lubricant depends only on compatibility with this freon, and the viscosity, regardless of the type of freon, must correspond to the type of compressor for its normal lubrication and operation. If I'm wrong, correct me. While it's not too late ))

So, we install the compressor. I installed its mount and tension bracket when assembling the engine. It would have been more convenient to do it from below, but due to the lack of a lift or inspection pit, I tried from above... ) After several attempts, I still pushed the compressor in and even screwed in the upper mounting bolt.




But there is no access to the tension bolt from above. Not to mention the belt. After all, in order to put the air conditioner compressor belt on the crankshaft pulley, you first need to remove the power steering belt from it. So, I had to raise the front part again on jacks and climb under the car. I really didn’t want to remove the lower plastic protective shield and brake air ducts. Therefore, it was very inconvenient. But I still screwed the compressor on.


It was also not easy to push the belt between the pulley and the viscous coupling impeller.


But it was possible - the belt is in place and tight.


Now all three pulleys are involved - generator, air conditioning compressor, power steering.


The compressor is installed.


But the most difficult thing was to tighten the power steering belt and screw in its pump through these ventilation holes in the lower protective shield... I struggled with this for a long time, but in the end, I screwed in the pump.


We connect the compressor wiring. I have a new dual low and high pressure sensor installed on the dryer. The low pressure sensor has a black connector, and the high pressure sensor has a white one.


My wiring was missing the connector for the high pressure sensor, so I had to restore it. Housing (61 13 1 378 417).


The connector for the low pressure sensor was for the old-style sensor - with two separate flat contacts and a rubber cap for the sensor.


So in order not to cut the wiring, I had to make another adapter for the new sensor.


Connect the adapter to the air conditioner wiring, and then connect the low pressure sensor to the adapter.


Connect the restored white connector to the high pressure sensor.


I previously wrote that my old compressor did not have an oil temperature sensor, so it does not have wiring for it. In fact, this is just a factory jumper that includes this sensor in series with the electromagnetic clutch wiring. The new compressor has this sensor. Therefore, we take the standard jumper and rearrange it in the empty places on the 3-pin connector of the air conditioner wiring.




We connect the compressor.


Earlier I asked why there was a metal plate with a hole on the compressor. One of the answer options was - a hole for the clip fixing the compressor wiring. I liked this option. I don't know if it was like that at the factory, but I installed a wiring holder there and fixed the compressor wiring with it.




By the way, while I was pulling the wiring there, I noticed that water started to drip a little from the seal of the washer tank pump. I bought all three new seals, I will change them later just in case.


I hid all the connectors under the washer tank, fixed the wiring with a tie to the other harnesses.
All that remained was to screw on the two hoses.


Pre-filled the compressor with 100ml of oil.


The total oil volume is 200ml, but the rest will be filled in when filling the system.


And then I had a bad luck... As was the case with the ABS unit fitting, the outlet hose fitting does not want to be screwed into the thread.... I still don't know what to do with it...


And that's not all... The inlet hose fitting has a special bend for the compressor flange, which is installed at an angle. On my compressor, the flange is installed vertically, so the hose does not reach it...


That's such a mess... But I will solve this problem - I will rearrange the flange from my old broken compressor. It has the right shape. It's not for nothing that I restored it too, although its condition is a little worse... But what to do with the damaged thread, I haven't figured out yet...
And the "finish" was so close..... )))

P.S.
If anyone in Kyiv has contacts of a smart R12 air conditioner repairman, I would be grateful if you could share them. But, specifically a repairman, not a "refueler" :)

[The_Glory]

Adapters for jacks

After a little fiddling, I finally pushed the compressor into place, from above through the hood, and even screwed it to the engine. But to put on the belt, tighten it and fix it, you need access from below. In addition, to put on the air conditioner compressor belt, you first need to remove the power steering belt. And to do this, you will probably have to remove the lower protective plastic shield. Since, unfortunately, I do not have a lift or a viewing hole, I will probably have to make a "mini-overpass" on the garage ramp again. Or try to simply raise the front part on both sides with two jacks.
I'll start with the simpler option - jacks.
I have been meaning to make some adapters for jacks for a very long time, so as not to scratch or bend the lower edge on the sills with them. Finally, this day has come! )
I found suitable pieces of iron in the garage, cut them, cleaned them.


And made such adapters for both of my jacks.




Two adapters in standard places, under the thresholds.
For one jack, we used its standard insert and welded a round steel washer and two supports from a 20x20mm square to it.
For another jack, a ring made of a pipe with a diameter of 50 mm, a height of 15 mm was welded to the steel washer from below.
I glued soft pads to the supports.
Two adapters for the silent block of the rear beam - rings made of a pipe with a diameter of 50 mm, a height of 40 mm. I put a rubber hose cut lengthwise on the end of the pipe.

Adapters in standard places, under the thresholds.




The adapter fits well in its standard place on the threshold, without touching its lower edge, and the BBS plastic pads.




Adapters for the silent block of the rear beam.




The adapter fits well under traction, without touching the nut and bolt of the beam.




I hope that now lifting the car will be easier and safer.


I also glued soft pads to the standard jack spacer so that, if necessary, it can be lifted under the side members or some other surface.


Now I can try to screw the compressor.

[The_Glory]

Assembling the BOSCH BEHR R12 air conditioner compressor

Everything is ready - finally, you can assemble the compressor.










Santech rubber seal repair kit MT2107




The seals are signed according to the markings from the catalog.


M20-2171 internal compressor shaft seal (2pcs.)

M95-2108 internal cover seal
G95-3101 cover seal
M13-2107 external cover seal
M96-2140 gland seal
M13-2103 cover sleeve seal
M95-2101 inlet fitting seal

By the way, the markings are similar to the names of Soviet car models :)

Compressor assembly diagram and parts markings from catalog


By the way, I found a lot of useful information here:

https://bimmerlife.com/2025/02/04/e30-a-c-rejuvenation-part-iv-finishing-the-compressor-rebuild/

https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...ressor-Rebuild

Thanks to the authors for this.

So, when assembling, you need to immediately lubricate everything with a thin layer of grease. I chose Errecom Mineral Oil 46 mineral oil. It took me a long time to choose, but I will write about it separately, when refueling the air conditioner.
Since I did not completely disassemble the compressor, I do not use the two internal seals M20-2171.
Lubricate the compressor and insert it into the housing in this position - the triangular arrow points to the fitting.


Lubricate and install the rubber internal seal of the cover M95-2108.


Put the spring on the shaft.


We put on the lower ring of the gland so that its protrusion coincides with the edge of the spring.


We lubricate and insert the gland seal M96-2140 into the plastic gland housing.




Put the gland housing onto the shaft so that the lower ring fits into its grooves.


Drive the key into the groove on the shaft.


Lubricate and put the M13-2103 cover sleeve seal onto the sleeve.


Insert the sleeve into the cover and secure it with the retaining ring.


Lubricate and insert the cover seal G95-3101 and the outer cover seal M13-2107 into the cover.


Carefully place the cover on the shaft. Make sure that the seals do not fall out of their seats. We tighten the four bolts with new washers from the seal repair kit.


These bolts were tightened with a lot of torque. So that when tightening them, the compressor does not turn in the housing, we insert eight bolts along the contour of the cover, but do not tighten them completely.




Now we tighten the four bolts with a hexagon. I don’t know exactly what torque, and I don’t have a dyno wrench. So I tightened it as hard as I could! )


Now you can fully tighten the eight bolts along the contour of the cover.


We lubricate and put the M95-2101 inlet fitting seal on the fitting. We fix the check valve with a spring on the fitting.


We carefully insert the fitting into the cover and fasten it with two bolts.


An interesting detail that I wrote about in the last post is the oil seal catcher.


It is simply placed in the groove according to its shape.


Located at the bottom of the cover. Leaking oil through a special groove falls on the felt insert and accumulates there. Right on the car, by pulling on the ring, it can be pulled out to check the tightness of the oil seal, or cleaned if the oil seal is leaking. Then insert it back into place. Simple and convenient.

Screw on the oil temperature sensor and the electromagnetic clutch diode.




We fix the wiring with a tie through the hole in the diode bracket. We stick a "12volt" sticker on the coupling.


We fasten the electromagnetic coupling with six screws.


The pulley bearing is in excellent condition, so I don't see any point in changing the original Japanese NSK bearing to a new Chinese one.


We put the pulley on the shaft until it stops.


Install the lock washer in the groove.


Tighten the nut and secure it by bending the "eye" of the washer.


Install the clutch pressure plate.


To fit with the required gap between the disk and the pulley, a metal spacer and washers of different thicknesses are used. There can be several washers. In my case, there are two of them. First, we put a thicker washer, then a thin one, then a spacer.


We put the disk on the shaft so that the groove falls on the key. The disk fits quite tightly, we even had to hammer it in a little until it stops.


We fasten the clutch pressure plate with a bolt and washer, holding it with a homemade wrench or something similar.


Next time, if necessary, I will use its internal thread for a special puller to remove the plate - now I know! ;)

We stick a sticker indicating the direction of rotation.


The compressor is assembled. It is advisable to immediately pour 100 milliliters of oil into it through the inlet fitting. The total volume is 200. The rest of the oil will be poured when refueling the air conditioner.


The final "touch" is a new sticker, which indicates the BOSCH, BEHR, BMW numbers and the serial number. It also indicates the type of freon R12, the type of oil D-90PX and its volume 200cm3. Made in Japan.


I have another question - why do you need a metal strip with a hole on the back of the case? It is definitely not for mounting the compressor. It looks like a terminal for the "mass" of the housing. But I haven't seen this in either ETK or ETM... Not used?

The compressor is ready for installation.










Beautiful! )

P.S.
Maybe I'm writing too much, but I've been looking for something like this for a long time, so let it be! ;) Maybe it will be useful to someone.

[The_Glory]

Addendum to the previous post

In the previous post about the disassembly of the BOSCH BEHR R12 compressor, I had two questions. Thanks to smart people, I found the answers to them. So I'll add them here.

Question one:
What is the purpose of the internal thread on the clutch pressure plate?


Answer:

The internal thread on the pressure plate is just for the puller, so as not to hammer the disc with hammers and screwdrivers.
The puller itself is of such a plan.
This is the principle on many cars.

I think the principle of its operation is clear - the nut is screwed into the thread of the disk, the cone of the bolt rests against the hole on the shaft and when the internal bolt rotates, the disk is pulled off the shaft and the key. It's a clever device.

Question two:
What is the purpose of the plastic clip with a felt insert located between the cover and the compressor electromagnetic clutch?






Answer:

It's purely my assumption: a diagnostic element for checking the compressor seal. It looks like it can be removed by pulling on the ring and then inserted back. The shape is just such that it can be removed, and in what situation it can be removed, I don’t know)

Detailed answer:

This part is a felt oil catcher (often found in English as a compressor shaft seal felt pad or oil slinger).

It performs several very important functions:

Absorbing micro-oil leaks: The air conditioner compressor shaft seal (especially on classic compressors such as Denso or Seiko-Seiki) can leak microscopic doses of compressor oil during operation. This is considered normal. The felt sponge is installed just above the special drain hole of the seal and works as an absorber, absorbing these drops.

Electromagnetic clutch protection: This is the main task of the part. If this catcher were not there, centrifugal force would scatter the oil from the shaft directly onto the friction surfaces of the electromagnetic clutch (which is mounted on top of this unit). A greased clutch would slip, overheat, and fail quickly.

Dust boot: It also acts as an additional barrier that prevents dust, dirt, and abrasives from getting into the shaft seal from the outside, extending its service life.

So, this is a very simple but critical element for the longevity of the compressor clutch. Before installing the clutch, make sure it is securely locked in place.

Now everything is clear. Thanks to everyone for the answers.