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Here ya go, I can go down another inch in the front and about 1.5 inches in the rear..
This is my DD so yeah its low. But I havent scraped the oil pan since I took off my skid plates. :)
The skid plate is actually the reason I broke my last one..
I talked to GC today and talked to them about the shock situation and they recommend about 2" minimum of travel left for DD. I'm actually a little under that. They also said they've worked with Koni to make shocks specific for E30's that are shorter then normal E30 shocks. All you need to do is cut the shock tube. I brought up the Corrado setup and they said that one of the guys there actually started that, and there's a little more work involved to get those to fit.
So that's my next step I guess. Later on this year though, I just want to drive the car now.
The skid plate would always scrape on everything. I was coming up on a red light and there was a pitch in the middle of the road that push the skid plate into my oil pan and cracked it.
Keep in mind my plate was made out of 1/4 inch steel.
If I didnt have that plate I would have never broke my pan.
Since then I havent drivin with one since and I have never had a problem..
The skid plate would always scrape on everything. I was coming up on a red light and there was a pitch in the middle of the road that push the skid plate into my oil pan and cracked it.
Keep in mind my plate was made out of 1/4 inch steel.
If I didnt have that plate I would have never broke my pan.
Since then I havent drivin with one since and I have never had a problem..
Oh shit.
That makes me think twice about getting one now..
Originally posted by Janderson
you can have the keys to my hunk of 20+ year old West German steel when you pry them from my cold dead fingers.
I actually have a popping sound coming from my right side when I'm turning right in a parking lot and slow speeds (under 3 mph) gotta check that out.
Had the same issue with my GC plates, the problem is the spring binding on the upper spring hat. I took mine apart a million times trying to figure out the source of the noise and to make sure I assembled the strut and camber plate correctly. I eventually found marks on the upper hat where the spring had been spinning against the aluminum and making that popping noise. Those needle bearings in there just need some time to loosen up a bit, my noise went away after a few months. Lithium grease works well to, I usually just spray the camber plate down every now and then. Hope that helps. Car looks sick!!!!!!!!!!
Had the same issue with my GC plates, the problem is the spring binding on the upper spring hat. I took mine apart a million times trying to figure out the source of the noise and to make sure I assembled the strut and camber plate correctly. I eventually found marks on the upper hat where the spring had been spinning against the aluminum and making that popping noise. Those needle bearings in there just need some time to loosen up a bit, my noise went away after a few months. Lithium grease works well to, I usually just spray the camber plate down every now and then. Hope that helps. Car looks sick!!!!!!!!!!
I don't remember seeing any type of bearing on the hat? I had a pair of hats with the camber plates and then another pair I got with the coilovers, I used the ones with the camber plates. I'll look into it some more.
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