Abit's 318iA m20b30 + pssycat cam and more...

[gath]

Looking good ;D

[abit]

Did you get the dyno numbers yet?

Unfortunately the car is still not dynoed :(

BUT!
I have some fresh shots :D

[gath]

Did you get the dyno numbers yet?

[abit]

well..
since last time, when I drove this car properly, I realized that engine mounts are too soft. so bought poly m50 eccentric engine mounts and e21 gearbox mountings(bit bigger/stiffer).


sittin on e21 mounts


engine mounts


also changed front windshield, sooo nice ;D:D


aaalso cars outside look changed a bit, changed lip to old one, no more race car :( aaand roof rack off
bye bye


now




also thinking about lip from e36 mtech bumper


that's all for now

[abit]

Soo, car is running, and seems like it goes pretty ok ;D:D
Participated in local forum track day, have to say, car delivers power really nice.
on some semi slicks


and of course some doriftoo :D
at track I could slide in 3rd gear, actually had no clutch slip...seems like tires slipped easier than clutch




stance is life


and some burnouts too..
ok, Its enough, nothing more interesting done.
hoping to get to dyno asap


...because DTM Warsteiner

[abit]

soooo

head bolt ''issue'' was repaired in fast way;D:D
made thread further inside bore
spec tool :D


and final result, seems like It will hold :D


next, changed thermostat, made 5 holes in thermostat for better bleeding
after that car wont heat up, max I reached was lil bit over blue sector :D
second try, made 3 holes, It stayed better but still, wont heat up propertly, it reached normal temp standing, but, when you started to drive it cooled down to middle mark..
so I taped radiator, and it helped :D
on highway its ok, but it wants to start boiling in traffic jams
yesterday found out that fan clutch is completely down, fan is spinning freely, will replace that, maybe something will change...


and then It was time for remapping ecu




garages owner car, twin turbo e36 m50BXX, about 700 or so hp as I remember..


everything was good and promising, m20 goes like never before
but then next day it started to misfire on full load on 1st and 2nd gear at about 4k rpms, when the vtec kicks in :D
on other gears it was ok so, decided that I should check ignition system, because I knew, that I should change spark plugs anyway.
as forum members recommended, bought BPR6ES plugs, before that I used WR7DP bosch plugs


I checked ignition system, after that 1 coil and 1 spark plug socket
and now everything goes like It should....but clutch isn't :D


maybe someone can suggest something about clutch?
it wants to slip kicking in 3rd gear..can't do smokey burnouts :D

THATS ALL FOLKS!

[digger]

those are not current OE m20 head bolts which are torx head

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...t/11121726478/

OE bolts are not torque to 90Nm it is a torque and angle method.

they should go much deeper into the block

BMW general recommendation for M10x1.5 12.9gr is 80Nm

for OE torx bolts it is 30Nm + 90* + 90*

[abit]

There's isn't enough thread engagement IMO for cast iron with that bolt. You also don't really need 90Nm oiled. ARP are 95Nm with studs that go deep and they only pull up they dont impart torsion into the block

I agree, seems like oem bolts don't go deep in tread :roll:
So you say that i'm torquing head bolts too much?
but I always torqued them to these nm, with oiled thread.

I will try to make thread deeper in block (in bolt hole its not till end) and try to torque it with stud-nut, if it holds, for this season it will be ok, I don't want to take off head already

[digger]

There's isn't enough thread engagement IMO for cast iron with that bolt. You also don't really need 90Nm oiled. ARP are 95Nm with studs that go deep and they only pull up they dont impart torsion into the block

[gath]

and of course...first start video
coils was not fully plugged on, so engine was not working as it should,
later fixed that problem


Nice! :grin:

[abit]

oh.. this is an head bolt, not from damper :(
dont know why this happened. seems like that was that sound I heard after second start up. this happened when engine was already turned off, just standing. all head bolts torqued to 90nm last stage, these are 12.9 hex bolts. i know many others who torque them to theese nm, so, again, problems...

[digger]

with the different gear and damper it looks like it needed longer bolts to get the proper thread engagement? after you fix the threads with helicoil or similar i would just torque it upto a torque value Nm appropriate for a M10 rather than a torque angle

yeah i forgot you had M50 management

[abit]

and some not so good news

[abit]

looking good.

for the bolts torque to angle changes with length so if the bolts are shorter length then you cant torque the same amount. are OE bolts from m57 too long or too short?


what crank scraper is that? ishihara johnson?

yeah makes sure you get it tuned nicely i think it will be very sensitive to knock (high CR and different dome). what ECU do you have looks like you are running a MAF?

thanks.

mm, yes, you are right, I actually didn't thought about that.
OE M57 is M10X86, mines M10x100, that means max torque to these bolts should be bit less, right?

really don't know, bought it used from forum.

yup, guy who tunes my car knows what to do with these bosch managements. his car has m50bxx twin turbo with the same m50 nv management(of course there is some modifications done in ecu, but still) and makes about 800hp, already few seasons driving with this setup, only now changed management to Russians Abit aka Corvet ecu.

As it was before, I use complete m50 non-vanos management.

[digger]

looking good.

for the bolts torque to angle changes with length so if the bolts are shorter length then you cant torque the same amount. are OE bolts from m57 too long or too short?


what crank scraper is that? ishihara johnson?

yeah makes sure you get it tuned nicely i think it will be very sensitive to knock (high CR and different dome). what ECU do you have looks like you are running a MAF?