Another 5.0 build: #projectmerica

[MonsterE30]

Im gunna think the better option without cutting up the firewall for clearance, is to flip the headers towards the front then make more of a U shaped pipe to route it back towards the rear of the car. That way it will make the exhaust a tad easier to place where you want it to go from there. But thats what i would think. Or just turbo it like i did mine lmao. Nice to see another 5.0 E30 out there.

[ballski]

Yea guys these equal length headers are just for firing it up. I'm not sure what I'm gonna do yet for the exhaust. I don't even have all the header bolts in :)

[IronFreak]

Ah... I got ya. I have seen it done that way before on bimmerforum. but the guy wasn;t very detailed in showing how it was done. I'm with mosntere30, I will be turboing my beast!

This is the thread I was talking about.

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1624774

[eurotrash]

I would check the clearance on the drivers side with the oil filter (not sure if you can clock the filter housing but it plob will have to go down not forward ) to see if you can just flip um. Otherwise youll need 2 drivers side headers. Issue with running them back is firewall clearance. At least for mine anyways but my vc is touching the firewall so its prob back farther then yours.

Personally i'd say buy a cheap set of longtubes off cl for $50 and rerun a runner around the steering shaft and just take it back under the tranny to a collector Also checkout the v8 swap section as theres a good write up on using e46 steering shaft to save some room and get rid of the knuckle bs.

[eurotrash]

Pro tip: gonna have to put a tranny on before you do burnouts. Also just for referance. Id say pull the dif and put the engine in with tranny. That way you dont have to worry about lining up the driveline while pushing the engine into place. Its way easier to just dlide the drive shaft in w/o the dif then just bolt the dif up like your swapping it out. Would be a good time to drop the subframe and swapout/beefup all the mounts and bushings anyways.

[tspangle88]

Subscribed. I still haven't ruled out doing this to my car, maybe next year or something.

[ballski]

eurotrash: thanks. the oil filter can be rotated any direction needed. vc? is mine gonna hit the steering shaft the way it is? I was thinking about flipping both sides so both headers are front facing. where could I meet them for the collector then?

Also that guy on bimmerforums looks like he made his own to resemble block huggers going straight down then bending back. anyone try block huggers?

[eurotrash]

Vc=valve cover. And i meant they are touch the firewall not the steering shaft. Just to give a ref to how far back my engine sits.

No you cant run shorties back. The collector hits the firewall or the steering shaft.

Heres all the pitcures of my setup. I didnt have a filter housing so my filter comes strieght out rather then down so i couldnt just run my header down and forward had to run a drivers flipped upside down along with a drivers header on the pass side. My coolsctor is just before the subframe ill post all the wxhaust pics ive got.

Drivers gt shorty flipped


Pass side (driversside) gt shorty and 3" collector


Going around the front of the pan and up to the drivers gt shorty header



Front section


Used ovalized transition piping for under the car for clearance




Just a bit to encourage you to hurry up.

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b180/87a2cruiser/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_0937.mp4

[ballski]

so did you use 2 driver side shorties? I thought about turning the driver's side upside down. hmmm

[eurotrash]

Yes but if you can id just swap sides so it runs down on both sides. Keep the heat out of the engine bay a bit. Wrapping the piping works well but no reason to put anymore heat then you need to. Also it makes it a pain to run a dual snorkel ram air setup.

[ballski]

is there room on the drivers' side if it went straight down to route around the steering?

like these:

[IronFreak]

Pro tip: gonna have to put a tranny on before you do burnouts. Also just for referance. Id say pull the dif and put the engine in with tranny. That way you dont have to worry about lining up the driveline while pushing the engine into place. Its way easier to just dlide the drive shaft in w/o the dif then just bolt the dif up like your swapping it out. Would be a good time to drop the subframe and swapout/beefup all the mounts and bushings anyways.

What did you deiced to do for a drive shaft? I'm still playing around with this. I have a tremec 3550 I'm using that has a 31 spline output shaft.....I was thinking about getting a stang drive shaft and cutting the mounting plate off the bmw DS and welding it to the stang shaft, then have it balanced. I'll have to get a 31 spline yoke for the front, but then I would have 1 solid shaft vs. the split shaft it currently has.

How are you going about yours?

[eurotrash]

What did you deiced to do for a drive shaft? I'm still playing around with this. I have a tremec 3550 I'm using that has a 31 spline output shaft.....I was thinking about getting a stang drive shaft and cutting the mounting plate off the bmw DS and welding it to the stang shaft, then have it balanced. I'll have to get a 31 spline yoke for the front, but then I would have 1 solid shaft vs. the split shaft it currently has.

How are you going about yours?

Bring it to a driveline place. It'll cost you around $300 to have it done. They should be able to cut everything to length and either use a conversion u joint or weld the e30 u joint stuff to the mustang side and balance everything.

[eurotrash]

Block huggers may work but there expensive so i haven't tried um.

[IronFreak]

is there room on the drivers' side if it went straight down to route around the steering?

like these:

Turn those bad boys upside down and go straight through the hood.....

Problem solved!