New Member - 1989 325ix and Evo

[AWDBOB]

Got these in.

Since I needed the nylon inserts I called GC about the springs and they said 'yeah they're not the normal Eibach springs they're special for the rears', so I paid $70/ea for these damn things, only to get them and find out that they're just normal Eibach springs that you can get for $100/pair elsewhere. Not to mention the miniature nylon inserts were $33/ea.

Currently pissed at overpriced shit, but coilover stuff is almost all here.

Ended up settling with 450F/650R.

[AWDBOB]

it will still rub, no matter what you do in the rear. I don't recommend that fitment. you want ~ET30-ET33. even a 15x7 and same offset with stock tires rub on rolled/trimmed flares, a 16x8 with a slightly larger tire has no hope.

might be worth looking for a higher offset wheel and running a set of studs/spacers to get the fitment correct.

here's a pic of what I did to the lips/flares:


some of the plastic rivets are gone but they don't do much, the double sided tape they used is like superglue and does the job just fine.

you can also see a rub mark where the sheet metal bumps out a bit. it rubbed there with the 15x7s. your 16x8 will be taller and 1/2" closer to the fender lip. with the 15x7s, you could maybe fit 3-4 sheets of construction paper between the fender lip and the tire..

As always, thanks a ton! I did some rough calculations, and the wheel will stick out another 29mm over my stockers. If I could find a 16x7 +25 I'd be in decent shape, but man, I want that extra 1" of width.

I have my heart set on 16s, or else I'd just pick up the 6ULs and be done with it.

I'm actually deleting the flares and the side skirts, as my eyes don't really find them appealing.

I'm thinking that I should've just got an i from the get go.

[nando]

On another note, I've been looking at wheels and would prefer a 16x8, but everything I enjoy seems to be +25 offset.

I was going to roll the fenders as flat as I can get them and trim the flares back. Anyone have pictures/info of a similar setup on an IX?

Tire size would be a 205/50 on a 16x8 +25. I have no problem trimming the flares and rolling the fenders.

it will still rub, no matter what you do in the rear. I don't recommend that fitment. you want ~ET30-ET33. even a 15x7 and same offset with stock tires rub on rolled/trimmed flares, a 16x8 with a slightly larger tire has no hope.

might be worth looking for a higher offset wheel and running a set of studs/spacers to get the fitment correct.

here's a pic of what I did to the lips/flares:


some of the plastic rivets are gone but they don't do much, the double sided tape they used is like superglue and does the job just fine.

you can also see a rub mark where the sheet metal bumps out a bit. it rubbed there with the 15x7s. your 16x8 will be taller and 1/2" closer to the fender lip. with the 15x7s, you could maybe fit 3-4 sheets of construction paper between the fender lip and the tire..

[AWDBOB]

Fellow R3Vers, I am in need of some help in diagnostics.

Preface:

I have been experiencing some odd wiring issues since I purchased the car. The radio and tachometer will only work with the lights on. I figured this is just something with the way the power was wired in, but never looked into it.

The problem:

I was driving home the other night, and the radio started to blink like crazy, and eventually shut off and wouldn't power back on. In making the next right turn, I noticed my turn signals blinking ridiculously fast (not burnt out bulb fast). Following that, the lights began to dim, etc, so naturally I tested to see if the car was charging, and it was not. I replaced the alternator only to find out that the car was still not charging afterwords.

I then found out about the 'battery warning bulb' going out, and how if that happens, the charging circuit is not complete, and thus will not allow the alternator to do its job. I proceeded to pull the cluster and test the bulb; it wasn't bad.

Now, I'm stumped. New alternator (tested good), good battery light, car won't charge.

Radio/tach is back to normal after I put the battery on the charger, as in it only works with the lights.

One thing I noticed was that the car was missing a low-beam light in the cluster, and I'm wondering if that could have something to do with the odd 'lights on radio/tach on' deal.

However, I'm more concerned at the moment about why the car won't charge, and quite frankly, I'm out of ideas.

Thanks in advanced.

[AWDBOB]

On another note, I've been looking at wheels and would prefer a 16x8, but everything I enjoy seems to be +25 offset.

I was going to roll the fenders as flat as I can get them and trim the flares back. Anyone have pictures/info of a similar setup on an IX?

Tire size would be a 205/50 on a 16x8 +25. I have no problem trimming the flares and rolling the fenders.

[AWDBOB]

Typical rates for RWD cars are 450f/650r or 500f/700r.

I don't think the iX's lack of caster/camber or awd-ness would change that very much.


Also, if I'm not mistaken, GC kits come with 2.25" ID Eibachs? (just in case you're ordering camberplates elsewhere to fit)

I'll call GC. The seller told me they were 2.5", but I'll find out for sure.

Also, when cutting the housing, are you guys cutting the space below the sway bar bracket?

[Northern]

Typical rates for RWD cars are 450f/650r or 500f/700r.

I don't think the iX's lack of caster/camber or awd-ness would change that very much.


Also, if I'm not mistaken, GC kits come with 2.25" ID Eibachs? (just in case you're ordering camberplates elsewhere to fit)

[AWDBOB]

The GC setup that I got didn't come with springs. If any of you folk can recommend spring rates/brands, I'd be all ears. Otherwise I'll be going with the 500/600 6"x2.5" Eibachs that they come with.

Goal:

Fun daily, some AutoX.

[AWDBOB]

nice find on the shortened struts!

Although that second link in your quote didn't make it. Do you have a link to where that quote came from?

Good catch, I fixed up the link!

And the thread from which it was pulled:

http://www.e30tech.com/forum/showthread.php?t=109250

[Northern]

nice find on the shortened struts!

Although that second link in your quote didn't make it. Do you have a link to where that quote came from?

[AWDBOB]

you have to shorten the housing the same or less as the difference in length between the struts. if the struts are 2" shorter and you shorten the housings 2.5", they won't fit. :)

that's good to hear though, that means koni race inserts would be drop-in with my current housings.

Baha I just read that quote where he said a hair over 2" so I used that wording. My mind is normally all over the place. 2" is where she'll be.

That's very convenient you shortened yours 2"!

--

It's also worthy of noting that every time I'm on my Evo forum (since buying 325ix) and see anything IX related (Evo 9 obviously), my mind is immediately perplexed as to why people are talking about an AWD Bimmer on EvoM.

It's a virus, and I'm now infected.

[nando]

you have to shorten the housing the same or less as the difference in length between the struts. if the struts are 2" shorter and you shorten the housings 2.5", they won't fit. :)

that's good to hear though, that means koni race inserts would be drop-in with my current housings.

[AWDBOB]

To compile some good info here, I found the E30 Tech thread with all of the necessary information. Here's the quote. I'm going to pick these struts up (same price as normal IX Koni inserts) and shorten my housings 2". The Koni Race struts are 2" shorter than standard inserts.

Ok guys. I found some short strut inserts from Koni that cost about the same as regular ix inserts and they are adjustable as well. Here is a link to the Koni page: http://www.koniracing.com/8611.cfm

If you look in the column on the left, you will see the different models and dimensions. The one to look for is the 8610-1436race all the specs are the same as a regular ix Koni insert, except for the length, 11.42in, which is about 2.1in shorter than a regular Koni ix insert. You have to reuse the threaded ring from your ix Koni insert to hold the strut, as the "race" insert does not come with one.

Camber are a must with these. Reason being is that although the nut will fit inside the bearings, there is no way you will get a 19mm (I think) socket in there to tighten it down. I had to get creative with my as I don't have camber plates yet. Also if you're lowering your car this much you'll want camber plates or your tires will wear on the inside like mine are, which sucks.

Here is a link to shox.com the best place I found to buy them: http://www.shox.com/appguide/shoxshop/

If you want to find them yourself on the website, go to shox.com. Click on "Shop Online" at the top of the screen. Supplier of course: KONI, Auto Maker: KONI RACE. I only added these instructions as it took me a while to figure out what to enter in the "Auto Maker" box.

According to the internet, these are the shortest inserts that Koni makes. Took me a couple hours researching and sifting through a lot of junk on import forums to find these. I have run these in my car for ~15,000km and they hold up very well. They adjust just like regular ix Konis and come with an adjuster knob as well.

For those who noticed the 8611-1257 Race has the same dimensions and are wondering why I didn't mention it, here's why: It will work just fine but it costs double the price because it's a double adjustable insert. Not sure how it would work with our cars and having to drill a hole in the bottom of the strut to adjust the compression. If you want to shell out 800 for a pair of inserts then go for it.

I am not sure what the GC/Koni short inserts are like as far as dimensions as I haven't got any. Anyone that has them feel free to compare. In case anyone is wondering using these will require reducing the height of your struts just over 2in. I did the cutting and welding myself, but did not take any pictures, sorry.

Alright I think I have said enough about a pair of struts. I hope this is helpful to someone. Cheers guys!

-Willy

Also, here's a nice DIY strut shortening for use with Koni Race inserts:

http://www.e30tech.com/forum/showthread.php?t=117885

[AWDBOB]

yeah they *can* work unshortened it's just not comfortable and you really can't go a lot lower than H&R sports.

just buy shorter konis to begin with. you could use koni race inserts, I think you'd need a 2-3" spacer, but they're several inches shorter than ix inserts. I believe there's a part # posted on E30tech somewhere.

you can't really shorten them yourself - koni can do it, but they're really expensive to have rebuilt. you're better off getting the right ones to begin with.

could also call GC and see what they're using for the ix.

For sure, I obviously want to do it right since I'm going this far.

I actually called GC yesterday and they were little to no help about shortening the struts. They told me I didn't need to modify anything, and then they said the obvious, that I need to shorten the housings, and then I asked about shortened Konis and he said "I don't know anything about that. We only sell front Konis for the I in the full suspension kit. I don't know about the IX."

I'll look on E30 tech for the P/N!

[nando]

yeah they *can* work unshortened it's just not comfortable and you really can't go a lot lower than H&R sports.

just buy shorter konis to begin with. you could use koni race inserts, I think you'd need a 2-3" spacer, but they're several inches shorter than ix inserts. I believe there's a part # posted on E30tech somewhere.

you can't really shorten them yourself - koni can do it, but they're really expensive to have rebuilt. you're better off getting the right ones to begin with.

could also call GC and see what they're using for the ix.