2nd e30, 87 Lachssilber Revival

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  • 2mAn
    replied
    Enjoyed watching your video, left a comment and a like... but man so many thoughts...

    I think you can get a generic brake line and I actually have a brake line bendy thing tool I can send ya to try out if you want to try out making a whole new line.

    FYI, of all my videos the DIY has by far the most clicks, so maybe a brake line DIY video could bring more views your way

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  • Reichart12
    replied
    Well well well, I did fix my brakes. I basically just bypassed that cylinder junction. They worked well enough for autocross the following week. I decided to split the brake job in to two video so part 1 is ready. And here are a couple photos as a reward for clicking the thread. Will have a few more videos coming this fall, I'm just a little slow getting to them.





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  • Reichart12
    replied
    Still working on the brakes. Going to bypass that junction or whatever it is for now since I can't get the bolts off and I'm beginning to round everything. But anyways, before this, the brakes were good and I signed up for another autocross run. Video below!





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  • roguetoaster
    replied
    Maybe it's an early model thing, I don't remember it being there on any late model I replaced lines on, but I could easily be wrong. But considering how it just looks like a union I think you can safely delete it and replace both lines with one, or get a new union to keep the stock retention system.

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  • Reichart12
    replied
    Here's a visual of where I am and the piece I'm trying to ID.



    Line 5 here is good. This line is what is inserted into the top of the piece in the following picture. I need to disconnect and replace the line out of the bottom of this piece. But, it is quite stuck in there...



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  • roguetoaster
    replied
    I would encourage you to plan to replace any lines that are connected to the one you plan to replace as it's likely that a failure will occur after you disconnect the faulty ones after disturbing the area, especially in the area just below the master.

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  • Reichart12
    replied
    Originally posted by moatilliatta
    Take your time and do it right, brake / fuel plumbing is nothing to gamble.
    Originally posted by roguetoaster
    Cunifer for the brake lines for sure, and you can potentially reuse some fittings depending on their condition, but a selection of new stuff is good to have. I suggest getting a bench bender and copying the lines off of the car, but in reality you can do all of the bending by hand, or with a piece of pipe with cunifer.
    Ah you guys, breathing some sense back into me. I am lazy and do like the quick fixes. But also don't want to get too trashy with repairs where people begin to expect big vape clouds when I open the doors. Began poking around to find the bad lines and its pretty toast. Going to just replace that one for now and then begin planning for the winter. The right way. The car is rustier than I remember and it was slightly defeating digging around underneath it.

    The line that is bad runs to the rear along side the fuel lines and connects in the engine bay at some large (2-3") piece where the exiting line runs to the abs module. At first I thought it might be the pressure regulator I read about but doesn't match up well to RealOEM. So no idea what it is but the lines are pretty seized into it.

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  • roguetoaster
    replied
    Keep the booster.

    Seconded on getting a new tank, be sure to put new foam or sound deadening on top where it touches the body, and get new tank isolator mounts where it bolts in if possible. You may have to do some cutting to get the new tank to fit if you go to single pump, but you also need to extend wiring from the main pump as the lift pump power probably isn't suitable for a single pump.

    Cunifer for the brake lines for sure, and you can potentially reuse some fittings depending on their condition, but a selection of new stuff is good to have. I suggest getting a bench bender and copying the lines off of the car, but in reality you can do all of the bending by hand, or with a piece of pipe with cunifer.

    In fairness, since your car isn't exactly in primo shape I see nothing wrong with simply running soft lines to replace any dead fuel pipes, providing you can secure the soft lines so there is no sag. Clearly, if this is a prelude to more restoration then you ought to use metal lines, and while cunifer can also work it's easy to kink when you change a fuel filter or replace soft lines again down the road if you are not very careful.

    If you opt to not replace the tank (which you probably need to as the filler neck inlet is probably rusted) you can lower the tank partially and sneak in new soft lines.

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  • moatilliatta
    replied
    http://www.fedhillusa.com/ - cunifer brake line and tube nuts
    https://www.eastwood.com/professiona...ring-tool.html - brake line flare tool
    https://www.bimmerworld.com/Brakes/H...xoCReYQAvD_BwE - Bimmerworld / stoptech Dot hoses

    1. I believe that kits garbage and makes no sense unless you’re lazy. keep twin masters if you delete your booster…

    2. See above and test a few bending tools that you like before you start.

    3. You’ll find more fuel hose on top of the tank to be replaced, good time to upgrade to the large tank - spectra. You can get replacement fuel lines from the dealer. I made mine from stainless also with brake lines. A harder but more satisfying way to do it.

    4. Larger tank runs one in tank pump

    Take your time and do it right, brake / fuel plumbing is nothing to gamble.




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  • Reichart12
    replied
    Ok, had another rusty brake line go out on me today so a few questions to ask the r3v-hivemind...

    1) Has anyone used the Chase Bays brake booster elimination reservoir set up?

    2) Any advice on running all new brake lines?

    3) If I were to go to run new brake lines, I would also like to run new fuel lines. How is the job to drop the tank and redo that setup?

    4) Finally, worth it to go to one fuel pump, I think my eta has the two pump set up?

    Obviously, I am planning for a full fall-winter-spring project set up and would like to do everything in one giant sweep.

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  • Reichart12
    replied
    Originally posted by mike.bmw
    Beautiful shots! Liked the YT video. :-)
    Thanks, maybe one day the CCA will run with one of these photos.

    Originally posted by zwill23
    This car is sweet, looks great with those wheels. Agreed on the shots!
    Thank you, I love the Schnitzers!

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  • zwill23
    replied
    This car is sweet, looks great with those wheels. Agreed on the shots!

    Leave a comment:


  • mike.bmw
    replied
    Beautiful shots! Liked the YT video. :-)

    Leave a comment:


  • Reichart12
    replied
    Enjoy a photo dump and a Youtube video. Just changed out a few small items while wiring in my tach, nothing too exciting. Autocross video 2 to come in the next week or so. Also, finished moving into a new house with a garage so I have a few projects beginning to be planned. First up will most likely be refinish Zender valance and Mtech1 wing, but I'm no bodywork expert.















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  • Reichart12
    replied
    Originally posted by mike.bmw
    I liked the video! I've had a few issues with pedal/brake pressure on my car over the years. Swapping out rotors and pads helped a bunch as did replacing the original brake hoses and thoroughly bleeding the system.
    The hoses and fluid probably need changing. I've had it for 7 years and I know I haven't done them. I did do pads and rotors before.

    Originally posted by moatilliatta
    Was that a diesel trunk in front of you?
    It was. It was my friends Luv. He has a couple of them.

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