1988 325is e30 - the "battle" scarred veteran

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  • crappycoco
    Wrencher
    • May 2014
    • 250

    #16


    I have some seepage around item #23 to #27. Guessing it's the gasket (#24), but I'd love to know what it actually is, since I have no idea =)

    Probably just take it out and replace the gasket? Looks pretty straight forward.

    Comment

    • crappycoco
      Wrencher
      • May 2014
      • 250

      #17
      Found this:

      Replace 23-24. 25 was the whole assembly that is no longer available. Also you will need (2) #23's one for the block side and one for the cap. These are the bearings for the oil pump drive gear. Make sure to also get a new oil pump drive rod as well.
      Now I can't seem to find the "oil pump drive rod" part. Halp r3v.
      Last edited by crappycoco; 04-12-2015, 11:56 AM.

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      • Farwest92
        Advanced Member
        • Jul 2011
        • 192

        #18
        Under that cap is the oil pump drive shaft, it is also where the distributor would have mounted if our engines had one. You can remove the cap and the drive gear if you wanted to prime the oil pump with a drill.
        Hope this helps, cool car.

        Comment

        • crappycoco
          Wrencher
          • May 2014
          • 250

          #19
          Hey, thanks!
          I've been looking for the part # on that "oil pump drive gear" or drive gear
          as you've put it. Is that the thing that drives the oil pump? #8,10,11,18?

          Comment

          • crappycoco
            Wrencher
            • May 2014
            • 250

            #20
            Got my hands on an endoscope and couldn't resist taking a look at the cylinders.
            Looks ok i guess, a bit heavy on the carb side, but I've been driving it short distances lately,
            so it makes sense. I'll redo the pictures after a long roadtrip to see if that helps anything =D

            These are the cylinders 1 to 6:











            Last edited by crappycoco; 05-31-2015, 10:36 PM.

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            • crappycoco
              Wrencher
              • May 2014
              • 250

              #21
              Oh, and I just got these:

              Last edited by crappycoco; 05-31-2015, 10:34 PM.

              Comment

              • crappycoco
                Wrencher
                • May 2014
                • 250

                #22
                Amazing, the images died. Damn you google.

                Btw guys, anyone knows what this connector is? Mine is all torn up and looks like it'll break soon.

                Comment

                • crappycoco
                  Wrencher
                  • May 2014
                  • 250

                  #23
                  Fixed the images above.

                  Srsly, whats that wire connected to?

                  Comment

                  • ak-
                    R3V OG
                    • May 2009
                    • 12422

                    #24
                    The sensor on the block? Oil pressure sensor for the idiot light on the cluster.

                    1991 325iS turbo

                    Comment

                    • crappycoco
                      Wrencher
                      • May 2014
                      • 250

                      #25
                      Thanks, what about the cable that connects to it? I need to change it and cant find the part number anywhere.

                      Comment

                      • crappycoco
                        Wrencher
                        • May 2014
                        • 250

                        #26
                        Nobody knows the part # for that piece of wire? I really need to change it.

                        Comment

                        • ak-
                          R3V OG
                          • May 2009
                          • 12422

                          #27
                          You know what man, it probably doesn't exist and is part of the harness as a whole.
                          One of those things you might have to just use new wire for and crimp/solder.

                          1991 325iS turbo

                          Comment

                          • crappycoco
                            Wrencher
                            • May 2014
                            • 250

                            #28
                            Yeah most probably. Is there any difference if I dont pick the exact same gauge wire as the stock? Like differences in resistance (of the wire) screwing up how the ecu receives the sensors signal? Probably not, but doesn't hurt to ask just in case =)

                            Comment

                            • crappycoco
                              Wrencher
                              • May 2014
                              • 250

                              #29


                              That funny thing I was hearing? Yeah .. Rod knock.
                              Kind of pissed at the car, the only thing I thought was ok was the engine =D

                              Given the fact its a salvage ..
                              1. Get a clean "shell" with a good engine and tranny, use the white bastard as a parts car
                              2. Get a 2.7 block and make the bastard suffer some more.
                              3. Drive it into the nearest ditch and preform a viking funeral with lighter fluid and toothpicks.

                              Comment

                              • crappycoco
                                Wrencher
                                • May 2014
                                • 250

                                #30
                                Any advice would be greatly appreciated =)
                                I'm thinking about doing the bearings myself - from what I've read its a fairly complicated task .. and Benteley doesn't cover it - perhaps someone with hands on experience could help? I've read the stroker pages and though it sounds tempting, i think it might be too much for my current knowledge. I could just assemble the parts and send it off to a machine shop, but that can get real pricey, real fast. I was quoted about 2.5k to repair the current problem by a reputable east bay shop. I wouldn't want to go over that.

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