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Replace 23-24. 25 was the whole assembly that is no longer available. Also you will need (2) #23's one for the block side and one for the cap. These are the bearings for the oil pump drive gear. Make sure to also get a new oil pump drive rod as well.
Now I can't seem to find the "oil pump drive rod" part. Halp r3v.
Under that cap is the oil pump drive shaft, it is also where the distributor would have mounted if our engines had one. You can remove the cap and the drive gear if you wanted to prime the oil pump with a drill.
Hope this helps, cool car.
Hey, thanks!
I've been looking for the part # on that "oil pump drive gear" or drive gear
as you've put it. Is that the thing that drives the oil pump? #8,10,11,18?
Got my hands on an endoscope and couldn't resist taking a look at the cylinders.
Looks ok i guess, a bit heavy on the carb side, but I've been driving it short distances lately,
so it makes sense. I'll redo the pictures after a long roadtrip to see if that helps anything =D
You know what man, it probably doesn't exist and is part of the harness as a whole.
One of those things you might have to just use new wire for and crimp/solder.
Yeah most probably. Is there any difference if I dont pick the exact same gauge wire as the stock? Like differences in resistance (of the wire) screwing up how the ecu receives the sensors signal? Probably not, but doesn't hurt to ask just in case =)
That funny thing I was hearing? Yeah .. Rod knock.
Kind of pissed at the car, the only thing I thought was ok was the engine =D
Given the fact its a salvage ..
1. Get a clean "shell" with a good engine and tranny, use the white bastard as a parts car
2. Get a 2.7 block and make the bastard suffer some more.
3. Drive it into the nearest ditch and preform a viking funeral with lighter fluid and toothpicks.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated =)
I'm thinking about doing the bearings myself - from what I've read its a fairly complicated task .. and Benteley doesn't cover it - perhaps someone with hands on experience could help? I've read the stroker pages and though it sounds tempting, i think it might be too much for my current knowledge. I could just assemble the parts and send it off to a machine shop, but that can get real pricey, real fast. I was quoted about 2.5k to repair the current problem by a reputable east bay shop. I wouldn't want to go over that.
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