M30b34 E30 twin-screw supercharged muscle car

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  • Eric
    replied
    Originally posted by Ether-D
    And Eric, I reckon you quoted that so I'd remember to mock the doubters. Thanks for the reminder, but I wouldn't forget something like that.
    It's your build, so do what you want...But with all the fab you've talked about doing in the last 4 pages, it seams like you could have done a bit less typing and a bit more welding; then these arms could be done correctly in a few hours.

    The M30 is a heavy motor and all longitudinal forces (acceleration/braking) are hinged (literally) on the t-joint fillet welds. In the title of your build you say it's a muscle car & you plan on supercharging the motor, so I can only hope that the car will be driven with some gusto. With the potential forces applied and the weld joints in shear, especially down at the motor mount, I'd really be surprised if your radiator didn't eat some distributor cap sometime in the future. A simple piece stuck in the middle creating an H-beam would completely eliminate all shear potential on the joint. Look at most OEM arms, they are boxed or H-beam for a reason!

    What method of welding did you use? GMAW, SMAW? How many passes? SMAW you say? What type of rod?

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  • ThatOneEuroE30
    replied
    Keep outters remove Inners.

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  • Ether-D
    replied
    What do you fellers think of the tips? Too ricey? I had the chrome inner tips on there but they seemed a little too far apart so I added the stainless outer parts to make them appear closer together.

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  • Ether-D
    replied
    Originally posted by agent
    Hey wait a minute... those aren't side pipes?!
    It was too much. I wanted to do it, but I couldn't get the passenger side pipe over there without sacrificing ground clearance. That was the thing I was unwilling to sacrifice.


    And Eric, I reckon you quoted that so I'd remember to mock the doubters. Thanks for the reminder, but I wouldn't forget something like that.

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  • Eric
    replied
    Originally posted by Ether-D
    Not gonna doit. But I promise, when they break, I'll tell you about it.
    quoted for future mockery.

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  • ThatOneEuroE30
    replied
    Originally posted by agent
    Hey wait a minute... those aren't side pipes?!

    Qft

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  • agent
    replied
    Hey wait a minute... those aren't side pipes?!

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  • Ether-D
    replied
    Done!!! Bout $90.

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  • Ether-D
    replied
    Ok scratch that. I was able to fit the other short glass pack into the mix. I was actually really curious as to what it would have sounded like though.

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  • Ether-D
    replied
    Mmmk, question about exhaust:
    What if I come out of the exhaust manifolds (dual all the way) and into a cross-pipe, on to the dual in/out cat, then into a 12" glass pack and a 22" glass pack right at the end on one of the pipes, and just the single 22" glass pack on the other?

    What might happen? The two pipes would have differing loudness/tone possibly. But what would that sound like? Well, I'm gonna try it. Mainly because it's too damn tight in there for two 12" and two 22" glass packs behind the axle. I'll make vids of all of it when it comes alive. Just wondering what r3v's predictions are.

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  • Peterkaczynski
    replied
    gee wiz mister i like this build

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  • ThatOneEuroE30
    replied
    so cool

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  • Ether-D
    replied
    Originally posted by The Dark Side of Will
    Does it take an active oil supply?
    I never dug deep enough into the AutoRotor documentation while I had it. I always @$$umed is was like an M90 in that you just need to keep it full.

    I was surprised at how easy documentation was to find when I googled the model number, though.

    The plate on the bottom that's held on with the two torx fasteners comes off and you use the six threaded holes under that to mount it. The plate is just to adapt it to whatever manifold you run.

    You'll need a bypass and a way of controlling the bypass as well.
    Yep, it does have oili supply and return spouts on the rear bearings, but Shaffer325ix mentioned folks put zerk fittings on and that's likely what I'll do as well.

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  • DER E30
    replied
    I like what you're doing... Keep doing it!

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  • The Dark Side of Will
    replied
    Originally posted by Ether-D
    Thanks Guise! So who has clever ideas about where I can tap some pressurized oil to feed it? It has an inlet and outlet on the intake side for rear bearing oiling. So I'm gonna need some erl from somewhere, and a drain also I reckon.
    Does it take an active oil supply?
    I never dug deep enough into the AutoRotor documentation while I had it. I always @$$umed is was like an M90 in that you just need to keep it full.

    I was surprised at how easy documentation was to find when I googled the model number, though.

    The plate on the bottom that's held on with the two torx fasteners comes off and you use the six threaded holes under that to mount it. The plate is just to adapt it to whatever manifold you run.

    You'll need a bypass and a way of controlling the bypass as well.

    Leave a comment:

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