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Hokejka e30 m50 turbo build
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Was over the draw through tune. Went to TRM and got a blow through tune with their high flow MAF and 60lb injectors. I live about 5 hours away so I was able to drive over and get it dynode at their shop instead of sending remote tunes back and forth. I was thoroughly impressed with their shop and help. Put down 290whp/290wtq at 10 psi. Finally able to enjoy the car.
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Been busy with school and work so haven't posted on forums much.
Took the 245/40s off and replaced them with Toyo Proxes r1rs 245/35/17. I clear 95% now. The 245/40s rubbed too much.
Cooling system redone. With new Tank, hoses, mishimoto, and spal puller.
New blank front + rear rotors and hawk hp+ pads all around
New smoked headlights + corner markers + Morimoto 6000k HIDs
New Odometer gears and brushed aluminum rings around gauges:
Center Caps done
Rear Bearings Done
ICV cleaned and better secured for boost
Exhaust tips in. Will get it welded soon.
Last edited by hokejka; 03-26-2015, 12:41 PM.
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I'm glad to see my old E30 being treated right. Actually tearing up a bit reading this.
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took icv out and cleaned it. check it in ignition. it vibrates like it should. not sure how i can tell if it works well or not but everything was sealed well and clean when i took it apart. ide be surprised if this changed anything. i will epoxy all the pieces putting it back together to prevent any possible to prevent any possible boost leak
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Switched battery light even though it didn't seem burnt out. Bttery light now works. Got alternator checked. No more noise. And it IS charging. everything passed. Car still wants to stall during shifts and when it tries to recover idle bounces all over the place. Thought it could be Air temp sensor so I checked for pinches and its getting current just fine. Any ideas?
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Originally posted by ian e30 318is View PostHonestly I would save yourself the headache and time and just buy a new one. It's nice to have the peace of mind. Anyways good luck and can't wait to see the finished product! This is a bad ass e30 so far!
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Ok so new alternator in. I high doubt its the alternator now. Im hearing it chatter every 10 seconds or so.Sounds electrical from inside the alternator. Pretty loud. Heard something like this before when the last one went bad. How do i troubleshoot this?
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Originally posted by hokejka View PostDamn that sucks. Stuff like this always happened at the worst possible time.
I am getting refurbished. I have the warranty for this one so I will swap it out with another one and see what happens. Worst case scenario I'm swapping alternators every month. good thing it takes an hour to do haha. I am positive the alternator is the problem. I have had both teated twice at auto zone.
I now realize that the clicking started once I wired in my electric fan. Before it did not click when button was depressed. Ever since I added fan it clicks. And yea i would expect it to to override and turn the electric fan on, but instead it does blower
I took out all A/C related hardware when I went turbo. Ill start taking some things out and have a look.
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Originally posted by ian e30 318is View PostStock M3 cranking amps is 650-700 amps so I think you are good there. I think the 80 amp alternator should be fine too. Are you buying refurnished? I had an issue with an alternator that was refurnished and it lasted about 4 months and completed died on a 2 lane backroad...in the rain...with my girlfriend...at 10pm. Perfect timing. Anyways I opened it up and the copper was discolored so I bought a new Bosch and haven't had an issue since. Are you sure the alternator is bad and not the battery? Are you checking the running amps yourself with a meter on the back leads?
The clicking noise is a strange subject to me. Are you running AC with your current setup? Not sure why the blower motor is turing on. The AC button should be engaging the compressor and condenser fan. Maybe a wire was rubbed bare and is contacting another under the dash? I would pull some of the easy pieces out of the dash/panel to investigate. Also not too sure about the lights are staying on. Electrical is always a tough one.
I am getting refurbished. I have the warranty for this one so I will swap it out with another one and see what happens. Worst case scenario I'm swapping alternators every month. good thing it takes an hour to do haha. I am positive the alternator is the problem. I have had both teated twice at auto zone.
I now realize that the clicking started once I wired in my electric fan. Before it did not click when button was depressed. Ever since I added fan it clicks. And yea i would expect it to to override and turn the electric fan on, but instead it does blower
I took out all A/C related hardware when I went turbo. Ill start taking some things out and have a look.
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