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Hokejka e30 m50 turbo build

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  • ian e30 318is
    replied
    Stock M3 cranking amps is 650-700 amps so I think you are good there. I think the 80 amp alternator should be fine too. Are you buying refurnished? I had an issue with an alternator that was refurnished and it lasted about 4 months and completed died on a 2 lane backroad...in the rain...with my girlfriend...at 10pm. Perfect timing. Anyways I opened it up and the copper was discolored so I bought a new Bosch and haven't had an issue since. Are you sure the alternator is bad and not the battery? Are you checking the running amps yourself with a meter on the back leads?

    The clicking noise is a strange subject to me. Are you running AC with your current setup? Not sure why the blower motor is turing on. The AC button should be engaging the compressor and condenser fan. Maybe a wire was rubbed bare and is contacting another under the dash? I would pull some of the easy pieces out of the dash/panel to investigate. Also not too sure about the lights are staying on. Electrical is always a tough one.

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  • hokejka
    replied
    clicking noise

    alternator: bosch 80amp
    battery: autocraft 700 cranking amps

    i figured out what turns off clicking but not exactly sure what it is. i noticed my ac button was depressed. i clicked it off and the clicking stopped. I played with it and noticed it clicks every time i depress it and if i hold it down the blower motor turns on on low only as long as i hold it. is that weird? it sounds like its coming from inside the dashboard....

    also all the lights on the dash are still on. wonder whats causing that


    Originally posted by ian e30 318is View Post
    ABS Wiring: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=73435

    Where is the "clicking" noise coming from? What size alternator and battery are you using?

    Leave a comment:


  • ian e30 318is
    replied
    ABS Wiring: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=73435

    Where is the "clicking" noise coming from? What size alternator and battery are you using?

    Leave a comment:


  • hokejka
    replied
    So black/green unloader wire is finally reconnected at starter. Everythign works now besides ABS.

    I am gettign a weird clicking noise from what sounds like inside the cabin. It sounds like a relay. Clicks about every 30 seconds. Any idea?

    Also went through 2 alternators in 1 month. I could be having bad luck but I doubt it. Makes me think its associated with the clicking. Or could it be that the unloader relays weren't grounded?

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  • hokejka
    replied




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  • hokejka
    replied
    Originally posted by ak- View Post
    If you don't like the shiny bolts on your fenders you can get these little covers that push into them so they are hidden/covered.
    Google "allen bolt caps".

    Nice tushy too.
    I don't mind them but haven't figured what the final look would be.

    As far as the aux fan its the k7 relay ground missing. Its effecting the whole car. time to get that pin grounded properly.

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  • ak-
    replied
    If you don't like the shiny bolts on your fenders you can get these little covers that push into them so they are hidden/covered.
    Google "allen bolt caps".

    Nice tushy too.

    Leave a comment:


  • hokejka
    replied
    Im trying to set up my new cooling system and am hooking up electric fan. Ive went everywhere to figure out how I would hook it up finally I did and there is no power at the terminals. I checked further and there is no power at fuses 3, 18, 19 (aux fan fuses) also checked low and high relays and there is power only coming from pin 30 on each. When I touch pin 85 ground does not click like on the other relays. Whats going on?

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  • hokejka
    replied
    took her for a cruise

    holding real conservative 6 psi shifting only at 4k dead even with stock g37s at

    can't wait till tune is done

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  • hokejka
    replied
    alternator done. Lucky I knew something sketchy was going on, pulled in to an auto zone before I lost all power. They had an aftermarket one, ran back home to to take out old one and find the new one has no pressure area where to tighten the pulley against. It's sunken in unlike on the original one. Returned it. .



    Picked up an oem replacement bosch that was luckily in town. Bosch doesn't f around and it came with the pulley so no need to deal with bolting old one in


    my assistant ;)

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  • hokejka
    replied
    Fender flares on.

    Cut old flares off with grinder, Mated the 2 metals in the back with silicone and rivets. Predrilled holes in body and fenders. Fender lining in. Used an allen bolt and nut to hold fenders in place. Thinking about spraying the bolts and washers black. Not sure I like the stainless.



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  • hokejka
    replied
    I was so close to getting a hallman than read up on this one and the reviews convinced me. Im more than satisfied. No need for something fancy. Simple and works.

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  • CorvallisBMW
    replied
    Nice, I ordered the same boost controller and it just arrived yesterday. Glad to hear it's getting good reviews.

    Good luck on the tuning OP, keep pushing!

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  • Pootis
    replied
    Ha I'm running the same boost controller and it works awesome! holds boost right where I want it

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  • hokejka
    replied
    Put weaker spring in. Holds 6 psi. Put in boost controller so I can go up from there. Until tune is finished i'm running 7 psi and shifting before 4.5k

    Leave a comment:

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