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I've been trying to trouble shoot this issue of the car dying at start. The only consistent I can find is that disconnecting the battery remedies the issue for a time being.
A friend of mine suggested the DME. I figured I could possibly narrow the troubleshooting if unplugging that would fix the issue, similar to disconnecting the battery.
Well I disconnected the DME and sure enough, the car started without any hiccups. It revved a little high for a sec and then settled. I drive it for a min, turned it off and then let it sit. I started it and again, ran without incident.
I'm now leaning toward the DME needing a replacement.
Anyone have a DME they are looking to get rid of?Comment
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I also replaced the fluid in the transfer case. Old stuff was pretty bad. I put some Amsoil Super Shift ATF in it as replacement. Only have heard good things about it.
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Just some pictures from the weekend. Both cars needed a clean. You can see the Audi in the back.
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how did you get the transfer case bushing to go back in, getting it out makes sense to me.Comment
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Ditch the AFM and DME. There's a glitch in your car somewhere, messing with something. It's probably 2 or 3 layers of fubar deep, which means replacing 1 part at a time will never fix it. Megasquirt fixed my issue. Of course I ran into another issue then, lack of tuning knowledge, but over time that's been mitigated. It's cheap compared to other stand alones, but it's still a big mod to do price wise starting at $800 for a plug in kit. Mayber a miller maf + chip will fix the issue.
You can try replacing the engine harness with a NEW i harness and then extend the oil pressure lines. Don't even bother with a new harness. Also, get a new CPS and a a refurbished AFM. That'll cost you over a grand, I think.
You're making great progress. I've been where you are, it sucks and it feels so pointless and hopeless.AWD > RWDComment
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Thanks Kershaw. I'm taking the multimeter to everything. I actually replaced the CPS, which didn't change anything, but the car did run smoother till it reevalulated the readouts from the car and the DME updated, then it ran like shit again.
Last night I was thinking about this whole journey down the rabbit whole and I think the issue I'm looking for started when i replaced the two coolant temp sensors (brown and blue). So I'm actually gonna get a new coolant temp switch and test it against the one i have in there now. I am getting a feeling that the coolant temp sensor is still bad even after replacing it, maybe it was faulty, i dont know. I'll know more when i check the readout tonight and then compare it to a different one.
I mean, it makes sense it could be the blue temp sensor. It has similar symptoms like, dying when you start it, idling issues, cold start issues, etc. With how much is tied to this sensor, it's very probable. 15$ is a lot cheaper than a new DME...Comment
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Alright! I checked my coolant temp sensor and it's out of range. Totally explains a lot, but I won't get too excited till I get a new one and it fixes the issues I'm having.
Here are the resistance specs.
Here is the resistance with the engine hot.
Here is the resistance with the engine cold.
It's under... it explains how when my car warms up the idle shoots above 1k, the engine is compensating for the low reading. It also explains why resetting the battery also fixes the issues temporarily, cause it baselines the DME. Fingers crossed over here. I'll post the results when I get a new sensor.Comment
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I ordered and received a coolant temp sensor. It showed up Friday afternoon. As I was driving home from work, the car died completely. No lights on or really anything other than a dead pedal. I would press on the gas pedal, over and over and no response. So, I pulled the car over to the side of the road and called a tow truck. The wouldn't start and I wanted to get off the highway.
This morning I went to try and swap out the coolant temp sensor, but decided to see if just plugging in the new one would allow me to start the car. The car turned over, but in a very weak fashion and then died. Now I'm thinking it's possibly something else. I'm going to go grab an OBD1 scanner and see if that helps narrow down the issue. :/Comment
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Pulled out the multimeter. I couldn't find an OBD1 reader, only a OBDII reader so I traced it from the fuse all the way to the fuel pump. Once I realized the pump was getting power, I must have pushed on it a certain way and caused it to start. I decided to look into it further and found a frayed wire at the top soldered connection that was grounding out the pump!
I fixed the wire, pushed it to the side basically and it started right up! Replaced the coolant temp sensor and car is running strong again!Comment
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Two little things. Bought some missing push clips for the kick panel under the steering wheel. Little detail, but looks much better.
Then decided the rear screws holding the license plate on needed to be freshened up. My friend had some left over POR15 so I just ran a light coat on them after sanding off the rust.
I think Wednesday I'll be getting a new ignition coil. Tested it and it was totally off spec.Comment
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Replaced my ignition coil. Car still having issues... I ran some BG44K in it and I noticed a significant change in the "ticking" with the injectors. Part of me is thinking there is an issue there causing some problems. Part of me thinking I have an electrical gremlin I need to resolve as well. Car runs great when it runs great...
I also have been planning on redoing my foglights for a while and finally I'm starting the project. I found some cheap Chinese foglights on eBay, and since the price point was cheaper than the actual replacement lenses, I'll use the lens on them to put on my OEM fog lights.
When I ordered the lenses they were titled as "amber" but the picture was yellow so I naturally thought a goldish color.
They showed up orange! Aaand I love them being orange! So last night I separated the lens from the body.
It was super easy! Excited to see how these look with light shining through them!Comment
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