The fender is looking pretty grizzly too. I'll wait till I see the passenger side to decide what to do.
Car looking like Terminator.
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Car looking like Terminator.
Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
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This brings back memories when I repairs some rust on my iX Touring :D
Have you tried wire wheeling the fenders? The lower section is covered by the iX flare so not visible when you try to use a rust converter and some epoxy paint.Comment
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I actually started to over the weekend. It's salvageable so I'll keep it. I am going to see if I can just take it to get media blasted instead of spending an hour on it with a wire wheel. I took out my carpet over the weekend as well to get ready to cut out the rust and found a few other spots of rust in the floor board. The floor drain plug needs to be replaced and as well there are two spots on the passenger side transmission tunnel under the exhaust shield. So i have some work in front of me. It's been one of those things I knew in the back of my mind was there, but had never confirmed it.
I'll post up some pictures and updates when I get it all patched up to make the post more interesting.Comment
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I'm wondering if anyone can help me with some advice. I have never done any type of welding before, so I'm going to be learning here (i'll practice prior to taking it to the car). I need advice what size of metal to buy. what is the best approach, large pieces or small pieces to weld in? any type of prep before the seal sealer goes on?
really any type of advice anyone can offer will be appreciated.
Thank you!Comment
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Pick up a few different gauges of 12x18 sheet steel from home depot. You'll need the different gauges in different areas when rebuilding that corner. It doesn't need to be exact, but whatever feels close will work. Try to use as small of a piece as possible, because none of the body is flat and the larger the piece, the more difference you'll have end to end. Whiz wheel as much as possible. 3M Mar-Hyde for all the surface rust everywhere else. Prime everything. Paint it with 3M undercoating.AWD > RWDComment
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General body sheet metal is 0.8mm thick, sills will be somewhere around 1mm-1.2 as well as frame rails.
Like Kershaw said, try to only cut what needs to be replaced.
However for the front floor, you'll probably have to remove the section of the firewall/inner fender that is spotwelded to the floor as there will be rust between the two sheets of metal..
Just take you time, use a good rust converter then an epoxy primer and seam sealer.
Have a look at my thread to get an understanding of the repairs.Comment
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I think that's what I'm confused on. So I can put epoxy primer and then seam sealer, but I cannot put etching primer and then seam sealer, right? I think I'm gonna try to make the pieces as small as possible, but also the easiest shape possible too. As far as I understand, seam sealer does NOT get applied to bare metal. Also on the fender, I'm gonna cut a small portion of it out where it's rusted through, but on the seam I think I might be able to just weld the seam closed where it's popped out slightly. That area if like to cut as little as possible if any. Sent from my Pixel 2 using TapatalkComment
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Epoxy or etching primer , either should be fine. Altough epoxy might be a bit more durable.
Seam sealer does not get applied to bare metal.
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Ok very cool. I read it can't be applied to etching primer either so I'm gonna get the epoxy primer. Better just for me to do it right the first time in this one. I ordered some dynamat to put in as well. I'll be using some dry ice go remove the sound dampening that's in there just to make sure there isn't any hiding rust spots under there. Welder has arrived, need to pick up some sheet metal and start practicing welds and then I think I'll move over to the car. Probably gonna use 16 gauge steel, might be easier to weld for me. Sent from my Pixel 2 using TapatalkComment
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You have to buy 3M Mar-Hyde too. It's honestly crazy what this stuff does to rust. It converts rust to an epoxy paintable coating. These vanagon bumper mounts were very rusted, I took a brass brush to them and knocked off everything loose and painted it in 2 coats. It's a very nice finish. I always thought rust converters were absolute trash until I tried this one. It has 100% changed my mind. Just slather it everywhere you have surface rust. I don't understand why POR-15 became so popular when this stuff is available.
AWD > RWDComment
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I got a package straight from Brexit today. Euro grills and euro rear plate filler. Daughter insisted on being in the picture.
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Just take your time making the patch and when welding it in. Just do tack per tack. What welder did you get? Please don't tell me it's a flux core, you'll have an even harder time to get a good weld going.
I'm using 0.6mm wire with my MIG instead of the 0.8mm that was delivered with it.
There are plenty of other brands that also offer a rust converter like the one you're naming. They all turn in to a black layer.You have to buy 3M Mar-Hyde too. It's honestly crazy what this stuff does to rust. It converts rust to an epoxy paintable coating. These vanagon bumper mounts were very rusted, I took a brass brush to them and knocked off everything loose and painted it in 2 coats. It's a very nice finish. I always thought rust converters were absolute trash until I tried this one. It has 100% changed my mind. Just slather it everywhere you have surface rust. I don't understand why POR-15 became so popular when this stuff is available.
Yeah, I also don't understand what's the big deal with POR though, I bought a can once, only tried using it one time but I'm not convinced.Comment
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I put a euro filler plate on. I think it looks nice. Anyone have a remedy for the sides and making them line up more flush? I can see the white underneath at certain angles.
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Black plastidip?AWD > RWDComment
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