B5 S4, operation money pit. Forever evolving, never ending.

[Exodus_2pt0]

Only reason I'm leaning towards the f20 is for the trans.

K20 can be adapted to a Miata trans, but the strength won't be there. Plus, an f20 is already forged, and will hold more horsepower than a Miata could use.

[Northern]

That actually sounds bad ass. Or even a K series. I'd drive the hell out of that Miata with a K series or F20c, and I'm not really a fan of the Miata.

This, K > F.

They make a complete 2.6L high comp bottom end kit for like 2k that slaps in the K24 block. Throw a K20 head on that with some cams/springs and supporting bits, and you make a lot of power.

[Exodus_2pt0]

Something let go today. Got a whistle whenever the turbos spool up. Doesn't build boost, but my AFR is solid with no indication of a boost leak. Checked all the clamps and can't find any obvious issues.

I'm thinking a diverter valve took a shit.

Hopefully the Miata will be here Monday or Tuesday.

The more I think about it the more I want to swap this out for an SUV and build the Miata. Or keep both and figure it out.

[dadsbmw]

Throw a KL in it! I'd help you out with some of the logistics!

[HennaE30]

Yes to f20c miata.

Or quadrotor, or ls swap built for revs.

Destroked to 5.3L, forged rotating assembly, coated bearings, upgraded oiling and hardware. Spin it to 10k. In a Miata that would be badass.


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[ThatOneEuroE30]

rb miata would be cooler or a 2j

[DER E30]

Yes to f20c miata.

Or quadrotor, or ls swap built for revs.

[HennaE30]

Final title: Exodus's DD stage 3 meth injected B5S4 that I can't stop tinkeri...

This is really bad, but I might not be keeping the car as long as I originally thought.

My dad is giving me a 2000 Miata ls with no rust, 32k on the chassis. It's been sitting for two years so he is gifting it to me as a late Christmas present.

Now with the second kiddo here, I'm seriously thinking about selling/trading the S4 for an SUV.

I would then DD her Saab.

The Miata? The Miata will get an F20C engine/trans pullout. I don't care how involved it is. I've been wanting to actually build a nice car for a long time (I don't count slapping turbos on as a build). Plus, if all goes well I will have a nice garage in August to take on such a project.

I always loved the S2000 experience, but not a fan of the looks. A proper Miata with the S2000 drivetrain would be orgasmic.


Thoughts? Slap me out of it?

That actually sounds bad ass. Or even a K series. I'd drive the hell out of that Miata with a K series or F20c, and I'm not really a fan of the Miata.


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[Exodus_2pt0]

This is really bad, but I might not be keeping the car as long as I originally thought.

My dad is giving me a 2000 Miata ls with no rust, 32k on the chassis. It's been sitting for two years so he is gifting it to me as a late Christmas present.

Now with the second kiddo here, I'm seriously thinking about selling/trading the S4 for an SUV.

I would then DD her Saab.

The Miata? The Miata will get an F20C engine/trans pullout. I don't care how involved it is. I've been wanting to actually build a nice car for a long time (I don't count slapping turbos on as a build). Plus, if all goes well I will have a nice garage in August to take on such a project.

I always loved the S2000 experience, but not a fan of the looks. A proper Miata with the S2000 drivetrain would be orgasmic.


Thoughts? Slap me out of it?

[ThatOneEuroE30]

Actually I wouldn't mind. I'm thinking right now a Single 6262 with 2.8 heads and a good valvetrain, take it to 8250 or so on the hydraulic lifters. Forged rods, stock pistons and crank with a re-ring and have everything balanced.

There's a lot of voodoo info out there though, and people seem to crack blocks when really pushing these motors. I would hate to spend the cash and crack a block 6 months later. Then again I could just do it the cheap route with a stock motor and drop in rods. Run it till it pops, and drop another in.

Pm'd you his info

[Exodus_2pt0]

Actually I wouldn't mind. I'm thinking right now a Single 6262 with 2.8 heads and a good valvetrain, take it to 8250 or so on the hydraulic lifters. Forged rods, stock pistons and crank with a re-ring and have everything balanced.

There's a lot of voodoo info out there though, and people seem to crack blocks when really pushing these motors. I would hate to spend the cash and crack a block 6 months later. Then again I could just do it the cheap route with a stock motor and drop in rods. Run it till it pops, and drop another in.

[ThatOneEuroE30]

Haven't posted for a while, the car is still going strong! Puts a smile on my face every day. I actually find myself driving it like a Grandma 99% of the time, so when I do use the power it gives me that old rush again.

I bumped this though for a reason. My plan has been cemented.

If all goes well in August, and we get the house, I'll be selling the frankenturbos. I want to go big single, with rods and a girdle.

600-700awhp is my goal.

A guy here has one of the fastest b5 s4's in the country if you want info let me know i can put you in touch with him.

[Exodus_2pt0]

Haven't posted for a while, the car is still going strong! Puts a smile on my face every day. I actually find myself driving it like a Grandma 99% of the time, so when I do use the power it gives me that old rush again.

I bumped this though for a reason. My plan has been cemented.

If all goes well in August, and we get the house, I'll be selling the frankenturbos. I want to go big single, with rods and a girdle.

600-700awhp is my goal.

[Exodus_2pt0]

Total, stock AVUS wheels weigh in at 28 pounds each. As much as I love the look, I'm going more for performance. The Enkeis are 17 each. That's a ton of rotating weight to shed, and should result in a measurable difference in performance.

[HennaE30]

Come summer I'm putting a set of RPF1's on here.

Going up to an 18x8 RPF1 will shave 41 pounds of rotating mass on the wheels alone. Figure less rubber for the tires as well.

All together I'm assuming? Per wheel would be insane


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