Project: Spielereien. AKA "The dumpster fire"
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My understanding is that is a custom built part. I will be building something very similar to that for my swap. It seems like the most simple option for the booster swap, because I think you can get away without having to cut and weld on the brake pedal = Less headache!
Two of my knock sensors are also broken..Leave a comment:
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I'm finishing up with the final preperation, and parts collection for the major componants of my M60 swap. I ran across this picture, in this thread:
Can anyone tell me what car the part that is circled is, and what car it came from? or is it a custom part? I had an idea to basicly build the same thing, but if it's available off the shelf, or from a junkyard somewhere, I'd rather go with that.Leave a comment:
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Rock Auto sent me the 2 wire sensors, I need the 3 wire sensor. Which makes no sense. The manufacture date on the donor was 8/1994, which I think makes it a 1995, and it should have the 2 wire knock sensors? I dunno, I sent the sensors back for a refund, then I will have to order the proper ones from somewhere else, Probably Pelican.
I won't be using Rock Auto again....Leave a comment:
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I ordered my replacement knock sensors last night, from Rock Auto, Bosch parts. I paid about $40 each. I didn't want to have to fight with them later.Leave a comment:
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They're on the block just below the intake ports. With no air circulation, they get pretty damn hot, I think that's why the plastic always cracks. I've yet to find any confirmation that the cracks in the plastic impact sensor operation. Almost every 540i on the road has old cracked sensors, not many have knock sensor fault codes.
For $45/each x 4, I replaced mine. Not something I wanted to do later in the car. Of course, I've had my intake manifold off probably 5 times now anyway, go figure.
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Seems like a lot of guys swapping in m60s are finding the knock sensors destroyed, I wonder if it's a common problem. Where are they located on the engine?Leave a comment:
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More cleaning, and more assembly over the last few days. New water pump is on, Valley tray is back on, New Exhaust Manifolds, engine mount arms, and X5 oil block are on. Also took care of the carbon build up in the intake runners, and intake manifold. I gotta clean up the oil filter housing, and the alternator for reassembly. then at that point I am pretty much at a stop until I can afford new knock sensors. The ones I have are beyond toasted. The plastic housing on all 4 units are cracked and falling apart.
Also, does anyone know where to find a diagram of the engine harness for an automatic harness M60? I gotta remove all the auto shit from this thing. Alternately, If someone has a M60B40 manual harness they want to part with for a decent deal, PM me....Leave a comment:
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Did a little work tonight on the M60, Did some minor reassembly, and some cleaning to the passenger side bank. Not going for spotless, just to get rid of the buildup, and get it mostly clean.
Stay tuned, I'll fix these pictures soon....
Last edited by delamaize; 07-09-2017, 09:17 PM.Leave a comment:
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Box-o-Seals, new water pump and thermostat came from Pelican today....Still waiting for my X5 oil block....Leave a comment:
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Decisions were made, Not going to pull the heads. Seals and water pump ordered, also an X5 oil block. Cleaning of the motor and parts starts in the next few days, reassembly after that....
Also, I found a BMW DOT-R on the rear of the block, above the Valley pan, which reinforces my theory that, this engine one of the good Alusil block replacement, the numbers confirm this. So the likelihood that it has been rebuilt is now pretty much a sure thing.
Can't wait for the parts to come in so I can start reassembly.....Last edited by delamaize; 08-03-2025, 09:07 PM.Leave a comment:
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I wouldn't worry about pulling the heads, it doesn't sound like a HG issue. Of course you could always check compression or leakdown, but that won't give you a 100% picture even then.
But like you said, junkyard motor open to the elements = bound to have some moisture in it.Leave a comment:
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First potentially setback. I got the lower oil pan off tonight, everything went well with that, the more and more I dig into this engine, the more I think it has been rebuilt at one time. Oil pump, drive chain, and sprockets all look brand new.
Now the bad news, The pan had moisture sludge in the bottom of it. Not sure if this means it has a blown head gasket or crack somewhere, or if it's nothing. This wasn't much moisture, like a thin coating at the bottom of the pan, under the oil that was still in the pan. Now, This motor was in a junkyard, In a car that had the hood removed, and the oil cap was missing, so their is a possibility that some rain got into the motor. I'm not sure if I'm going to roll the dice and keep with the plan and not break the heads off the motor, or do the head gaskets. WAFFLES WAFFLES WAFFLES!!! This reseal is turning into a rebuild.
I'm going to talk to a mechanic buddy, and Maston (the IS300/aristo owner) and see what they think.Leave a comment:
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A little more progress on the tear down, Timing chain guides look like they brand new, no wear marks at all, and from what I can see, they are totally intact. Chains also look fairly new. Water pump was shot, Impeller was pushed towards the back of the motor about 1/8", but was BARELY not touching the inner housing. I suspected this though, with the damage to the car. So far nothing out of the norm seen, Matter of the fact, I suspect that this was a low mileage, well maintained engine.
The valley pan shows no sings of leakage, or anything. I have heard that, if you're going to have broken bolts, or anything like that, it's going to be there. So, for the time being, I'm going to leave it be.
Tonight, after work, (well super early tomorrow morning after work) I'm going to pull the oil pans and check out the oil pump. After that, it's pretty much time to order parts, and start to clean.Last edited by delamaize; 08-03-2025, 09:06 PM.Leave a comment:

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