My "Great White Buffalo" restoration.

[doorman]

A drill (drill around the center rubber) and a sawzall (cut a slot or 2 in the outer metal part) worked well for me getting the bushings out of the subframe.

I tried all sorts of sockets, clamps, etc and none worked on one of them.

[goskidmark]

Better springs I would have to say. Courtesy of Klug, a member on the forums. Old (Left) New (Right).



The old set is yellow, and is of an unknown origin. They also are two different sizes. Time for some new spring pads.

[goskidmark]

A drill (drill around the center rubber) and a sawzall (cut a slot or 2 in the outer metal part) worked well for me getting the bushings out of the subframe.

I tried all sorts of sockets, clamps, etc and none worked on one of them.

That will be my last option.

[goskidmark]

More slow progress.

My shifter came back from UUC with a new top bushing. UUC actually sent me new, extra parts as well. That was nice of them.



All finished and ready to install, but I still have to check for leaks on the output shaft seal of the transmission before I install it. A cleaning up would not hurt either in the tunnel and surrounding areas.



I did not use the mystery lube they sent with the kit. I chose something I like to use instead. I need more time off so I can finish the rear end and finally order a rebuilt drive shaft from Portland. I'm still awaiting a quote on that one in my e-mail.

[goskidmark]

Parts again...

I finally had a few minutes in the garage this Saturday, and I decided it was time to inspect the transmission tunnel, and the rear transmission seals. The good news is that all the seals are new. The previous owner installed a rebuilt transmission. I believe it was from an older vehicle due to the shifter selector rod joint. So i ordered the 89 and above off of Pelican Parts, awaiting it's arrival.

Pre-1989... According to this http://www.rtsauto.com/how-to-fix-a-...ideo-included/


I also had the time to figure out where most of the leaks are coming from.


The power steering rack, the rear main seal, oil pan seal, and the oil pan drain bolt are leaking. There is one last coolant leak that I still have yet to find. I know it's in the front somewhere. I hope it's the water pump, because I have a new one ready to install. More to come at a snails crawling pace.

I also received my quote from Portland Drive Shafts. I like the price a lot. The only down side is that they no longer offer replaceable U-Joints for my year. "We are no longer converting the BMW lines over to the grease able/serviceable u joints. The costs in the machining and the availability of viable parts forced us to discontinue the process and offer re-manufactured drive-lines instead." So that's a bummer, but I will be ordering it regardless.

[gespinal0301]

Not sure if you got the subframe bushings out or not, but this is what I used

http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1278591-DIY-Subframe-bushing-removal-Install-tool-easy-to-use-for-uber-cheap!

If you heat up the subframe where the bushing sits for 30 secs with a torch and then use this it should pop right out. It saved me a lot of time also if you can an impact gun you'll get these out in under 20 minutes

[noid]

Tried an air impact gun on the axle bolt? Should be able to knock it off easily.

I took an approach similar to your first to get the bushings out. Worked well for me. Just had to go really slow at it. I REALLY want a press.

DO NOT DO THIS. If the bushings give any resistance, the two arms will bend apart, and you will be left with a bent trailing arm (first hand XP, had to get a new trailing arm).

Any tool should be isolated to one arm and not use the other as leverage.

Consider yourself lucky that it worked out for you.

[goskidmark]

Not sure if you got the subframe bushings out or not, but this is what I used

http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1278591-DIY-Subframe-bushing-removal-Install-tool-easy-to-use-for-uber-cheap!

If you heat up the subframe where the bushing sits for 30 secs with a torch and then use this it should pop right out. It saved me a lot of time also if you can an impact gun you'll get these out in under 20 minutes

I already pressed out the center of the bushing, and all that's left is the sleeve. I tried that method and it just bent the crap out of the outer threaded pipe, even with a steel wedge. My sleeves are stuck in pretty good. I called a friend for an exact cut round push plate. He has access to a laser cutter. Thank goodness for awesome friends.

DO NOT DO THIS. If the bushings give any resistance, the two arms will bend apart, and you will be left with a bent trailing arm (first hand XP, had to get a new trailing arm).

Any tool should be isolated to one arm and not use the other as leverage.

Consider yourself lucky that it worked out for you.

I used the single C-clamp push method. It was the only choice I had due to my press limitations. I can't see that double method pictures above "bending" the trailing arm, unless they are weak laterally, which is unlikely. I could be totally wrong and I just never seen it happen. If that's the case, then I will bust out my crappy Mig welder and cut some pipe to fit in-between those puppies.

[gespinal0301]

It started to warp on me as well until I applied some heat to it :ST1G:

[noid]

I already pressed out the center of the bushing, and all that's left is the sleeve. I tried that method and it just bent the crap out of the outer threaded pipe, even with a steel wedge. My sleeves are stuck in pretty good. I called a friend for an exact cut round push plate. He has access to a laser cutter. Thank goodness for awesome friends.



I used the single C-clamp push method. It was the only choice I had due to my press limitations. I can't see that double method pictures above "bending" the trailing arm, unless they are weak laterally, which is unlikely. I could be totally wrong and I just never seen it happen. If that's the case, then I will bust out my crappy Mig welder and cut some pipe to fit in-between those puppies.

The two arms are very easy to push apart from each other, like I said, first hand experience.

Z3 had these two arms reinforced by a bar across.

You can weld one in yourself, but the metal there is fairly thin, so weld slow and dont weld one spot for too long to keep warpage down to a min.

For the subframe bushing:

[goskidmark]

Something is completed.

The new MTC shifter rod joint came in. I had to add four spacers for the custom selector rod. It feels a lot better. There is still a minimal amount of slop on the very bottom bushing that the shifter sits on inside the cup.



Bonus video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XxGzKP65XwY

[goskidmark]

No time.

The driveshaft came in today from Portland! No time to install it until the weekend. I still have to press out the sleeves of the subframe bushings.

[doorman]

What did the drive shaft set you back?
Local Chicago shop quoted me 300ish with csb installed.

[goskidmark]

What did the drive shaft set you back?
Local Chicago shop quoted me 300ish with csb installed.

Mine was a little over that. I had made the decision to go with Portland due to all the member's suggestions on this forum. I would give that quote a try to do a comparison.

[goskidmark]

The two arms are very easy to push apart from each other, like I said, first hand experience.

Z3 had these two arms reinforced by a bar across.

You can weld one in yourself, but the metal there is fairly thin, so weld slow and dont weld one spot for too long to keep warpage down to a min.

I might have to give the "New bushing" idea a try. Thank you for the tips.