Spec clutch and flywheel combo showed up today! I went with the Mustang EcoBoost stage 2+ which is good for 500+ HP so it should allow some room for power growth.
It's so fucking pretty.
It's so fucking pretty.
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Very cool stuff here. My friend absolutely loves this motor and wants to swap it into everythingSimon
Current Cars:
-1999 996.1 911 4/98 3.8L 6-Speed, 21st Century Beetle
Make R3V Great Again -2020Comment
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A buddy is coming over tomorrow to help me pull the M42, so if anyone wants a running M42 and Getrag 260 transmission with 7 million miles on it let me know and I'll let it go cheap. The engine does have timing chain noise so it will need to be completely refreshed (which makes sense since it has 7 million miles on it).Comment
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Bye Felicia.
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So I have been searching for new gauges since I don't really want to spend a lot of time or money on my old e30 gauges. I had been looking at Dakota Digital, AEM and Intellitronics but for the amount of gauges I want it was more cost effective to buy this instead.
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Whoa. Cool project! I'm really curious to see how it fits, the engine looks really tall!
Originally posted by whysimonComment
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The engine is a tall bugger, about 4" taller from oil pan to valve cover gasket than the M42. I may be able to slide it far enough towards the firewall to allow it to drop. Another option I have toyed with is notching the subframe to allow for oil pan clearance, or leaving it alone and cutting up the hood for clearance.Originally posted by FredK View Post
I won't really know until I go in for a test fit, which is coming soon!Comment
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Test fit went pretty well.
A couple of things to note:
OAL from front of crank pulley to middle of shifter assembly on the 6 speed is ~6" longer than the original M42/Getrag 240 combo.
Booster will not work due to clearance issues, I solved that with a Tilton pedal box assembly.
Will have to cut the trans tunnel around the shifter assembly to allow the shifter to come through the tunnel, I'll split the difference at 3" behind original shifter position.
Large hump (where oil pickup is) of the oil pan sits directly on the middle of the subframe. It looks like we will be cutting the hood and having the engine sit slightly higher than trying to modify the subframe or notching the subframe.
Any ideas?Comment
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Can you modify the pan/ pickup? Are you able to move the setup forwad or backward a few inches to get the clearance?Originally posted by formyhealth View Post
Other option is to modify the subframe. Look up ArcAsylumSimon
Current Cars:
-1999 996.1 911 4/98 3.8L 6-Speed, 21st Century Beetle
Make R3V Great Again -2020Comment
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I will need to move the engine forward to allow me to keep the factory shift linkage, which will help but will still be more or less centered on the sub frame.Originally posted by 2mAn View Post
I could modify the pan, but the area of concern is right where the oil pickup tube is and I want as much oil around that as possible, which is why I have tabled that idea. I'll look into arcasylum, didn't they make sub frames for an LS swap or some thing?Comment
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More goodies showed up, a two pedal box from Tilton, 2 5/8" masters for the front and rear and 1 3/4" master for the clutch. Summit Racing is crazy, I ordered these Saturday night and chose free ground shipping and poof, here they are.
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they make high-clearance subframes for installing rear-sump motors.
seems like this kit includes an oil pan with a slightly different profile - http://spartaperformance.com/2-0l-fo...-rwd-mounting/Comment
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^I vaguely recall reading a miata 6 sp (NC?) trans bolted up to an ecoboost. Might be shorter...Miata parts are usually pretty cheap too.Comment
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