Currently doing very similar repairs to my ix as well. You're doing very nice work, keep at it!
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New owner, BMW 325iX Touring
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Originally posted by iXguido View PostCurrently doing very similar repairs to my ix as well. You're doing very nice work, keep at it!
Still need to tackle a rust spot at the firewall under the fusebox and have a look at the metal vent tube that comes out in the rear right wheel well.
Not looking forward to the fusebox repair though..
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Originally posted by bostonvert View PostSchitterend werk, ik moet dringend mijn slijpschijf ook eens bovenhalen!
Glad to see this touring get so spoiled
Thank you!
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Got started on the rear right wheel well. I already noticed some rust where the vent tube of the tank goes through the wheel well. I wanted to buy the tube new form BMW but it turns out they are NLA.
I then thought I might be able to make a short piece of tube from just a flat sheet and weld the seem shut. But after uncovering all the undercoating and removing the vent tube I think that won't be possible as the whole inside is rusted pretty bad.
So I started looking online and found a person in Germany that remakes these tubes. He only does a limited amount. To replace the old tube with a new one I'll have to drop the fuel tank so also the rear subframe. That will be fun.
Turns out the previous owner also "repaired" a little section of the rear chassis leg.
Oh and of course the massive hole
Inside of the tube has definitely seen better days
I started picking/poking around with a screwdriver. Never let me pick your car with a screwdriver, I'll pick it to pieces!
Some rust around the studs of the vent tube cover and a few small holes
Stud/bracket for the plastic covering plate
Not sure how I'll repair this but there is a hole at the filler pipe
Bracket of the expansion tank
And a little hole at the wheel arch
Looks like the Touring will stay a bit longer in our workshop. I guess it'll make for some more rust repair pictures for you guys :)Last edited by D.Martijn; 07-06-2017, 10:30 AM.
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Originally posted by bostonvert View PostThat sucks, I feel your pain. Well once this is over it will be mint!
Today I started repairing the rust. Got started on removing the rust at the studs for the vent tube cover. the right 2 only had some surface rust, the other 2 had a small hole on the side.
after carefully cutting out the rotted bits and making a new patch. I cut the old stud off of the old metal. I'll plug weld these back on once the other repairs are done as the studs might be in the way when grinding/welding
New plates welded in and ground smooth + covered in Brunox for now
I then cut out the section on the left of the wheel well where the plastic cover mounts onto. New bend piece in place. Still need to drill the hole for the stud so I can plug weld it.
Luckily the inside of the panel is still nice and solid/rust free. I cleaned it up and gave it an extra coat of zinc primer
As it was getting late and the paint wasn't dry yet, I went home. I'll weld the piece in tomorrow or on Monday.Last edited by D.Martijn; 07-06-2017, 10:32 AM.
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Got the patch mentioned above welded in today.
Ground smooth, the pneumatic powerfile came in handy this time as there is very little space in the rear wheel well
I then removed the rusted metal on at the top of the wheel well. I also removed the rusted flange of the shocktower support and welded a new one on.
I also removed the old bracket that hold the expansion tank and the plastic cover as this was almost completely rotted away.
This fits here
Finally I welded in the new patch, ground the welds down and covered it with brunox.
I was lucky that I could use the old flange of the inner wheel tub as it was still in good shape. This would otherwise be a pretty hard repair as it's pretty much impossible to plug weld a new flange to the outer tub.
I also welded a short bead on the newly added flange and patch as this was also done before.
Last edited by D.Martijn; 07-06-2017, 10:34 AM.
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got the rust spot at the inside of the wheel arch fixed today.
Started by carefully cutting a part of the outer arch out as I'll reuse this because it's still in great shape.
Rotted metal cut out
New piece fitted. I first bent a 90deg angle and then stretched the flange until it had the right curve.
Flange welded in
And the original arch back in place after treating the inside arch. turned out pretty good.
Also removed the exhaust and rear subframe so I can remove the fuel tank.
The metal vent tube will get shipped tomorrow :)Last edited by D.Martijn; 07-06-2017, 10:35 AM.
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The previous owner had already repaired the side facing the front of the car of the battery box, but again, poorly. After removing the undercoating and cutting out the poor repairs, I got started on replacing/making the replacement panels.
I based the shape of the panels on the left over bits of panels and pictures of replacement panels from BMW.
Flat piece of sheet metal for the battery box
Corner piece of the inner wheel tub
Inner wheel tub, this has to be one of the more complicated pieces I've made for this car
Welded in and then ground down, it's hard to fit the angle grinder in this tight spot
I also welded in a new piece on the outside of the arch as there were a few pinholes after wire wheeling the panel
Last panel mocked up, this has to go between the two other pieces I've already welded in.
And fully done, covered in Brunox ready for some epoxy primer
Ordered some more parts from BMW too, new fuel lines as I've mentioned in the beginning of my thread that these were a bit rusty on the ends where it meets the fuel filter.
Also got a new vent tube, heat shield for the exhaust, some new screws and clipsLast edited by D.Martijn; 07-06-2017, 10:37 AM.
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my new favorite rust repair thread :-)
brilliant work sir.I BUY/SELL REFURBISHED CM5907s & CM5908s
HOWTOs:
DB vert plastic bumpers
OEM Keys
MTech1 docs
88 ix Lach/Card
91 ic Calypso 3.1
86 Cosmo 2.7
OEM+ or bust!
reelizmpro: I will always be an e30 guy.. I still do all of my own labor
TrentW: There's just something so right about a well-built M20 in an E30
e30m3s54turbo: I save my money for tuner parts.
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Originally posted by bradnic View Postmy new favorite rust repair thread :-)
brilliant work sir.
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When I removed the exhaust and rear subframe, I noticed the heatshields and procection plates for the fuel tank were quite rusted.
I sandblasted the brackets and heat shield (I decided to repair this one as it wasn't too far gone) and gave them a coat of heat resistant paint. the 2 other plates got primer and some left over grey/silver paint
Got some new parts from BMW too, new heat shield for the exhaust as it was pretty far gone. New fuel lines, as I mentioned in my first post, the end were pretty rusty.
New vent tube, sway bar links and some other small hardware/clips/gaskets.
I then removed the fuel tank, there was still plenty of fuel left inside which made it quite heavy to move around. There is some rust on the flanges, I'll try to remove most of the rust and convert it with Brunox.
With the fuel tank out, I have plenty of room to cut the weld loose of tube and body
I also got a new plate welded in on the side of the rear chassis rail as the upper side was pitted badly. I made sure I got good penetration. Still need to grind down the weld some more
One of the previous owners had welded a plate on the side of the chassis rail which extended on the lower side of the chassis rail. When I ground the tack welds I got presented with this..
Before removing the plate/disc, I made a jig from some left over tubing, 2 vertical tubes that fit tightly over the little protrusion and a square tube that connects both. This way I can reference of the other spring perch to make sure it's in the right place, together with a lot of measurements.
It was a pain to remove all of the rusted sheet metal especially because I was laying on my back and everything flew towards my face..
I removed a small section of the vertical side of the chassis rail and welded in a new piece from the inside of the rail as there is no way I could've ground the welds down on the outside, this also gives it some more strength.
I then welded in a new lower piece, again making sure to have plenty of penetration as I'd like to grind these welds down so it all looks factory.
Last edited by D.Martijn; 07-06-2017, 10:41 AM.
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Before I removed the brace for the spring perch disc, I bolted the disc against it and scribed a line around it. This way I can line it up roughly before measuring it all. I then removed the brace and rusted piece of chassis rail and made a new plate
Here you can see the scribed line on the underside.
First mock up with the new chassis rail piece clamped in place, fits pretty good and the measurement were spot on after some fiddling
The jig makes holding and lining it up with the other spring perch very easy.
I also got a big cut off from a local shop to make the new discs out of.
Looks a lot better than the old one..
Last edited by D.Martijn; 07-06-2017, 10:48 AM.
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Top notch work!Build Thread
https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=419655
Parts Thread
https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=408302
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