Can't wait to see this all come together....I had contemplated getting the whole car painted, but the interior is not perfect and I appreciate the patina. This should take off a couple of years off of the appearance, not seeing the two small rust spots and cracked chip guard. Respraying the IS lip for good measure too.
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Dmanb2b's Alpine 318is - S52 is ALIVE
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Valance repair is moving along...for those wondering SEM is my body guys preference on rust converter and was sprayed inside the rocker, before applying cavity wax. Also using transtar product to replicate chipguard
Rust Mort is an acidic compound that converts existing rust to an insoluble black coating prior to applying body filler, primer or top coat.
https://www.tat-co.com/Products/Repa...oat-Chip-Guard
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Originally posted by 2mAn View Post
When you're bored, Im pretty sure that the Pioneer decks let you change the colors and one is quite close to the OEM red/amber
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Originally posted by dmanb2b View Post
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Originally posted by mike.bmw View PostVery nice! It must feel good to have that addressed.
Also scored a set of Condor solid control arm mounts in OEM geometry...my current Condor mounts are the m3 geometry and the negative caster is a wee bit excessive. Hoping these will clear my headers. I tried a set of AKG mounts, but couldn't get the clearance needed. Side note, Condor should really look into revising the coating they use. Both my new set I purchased last year and this used set I just obtained have started flaking and allow water ingress and unnecessary rusting of a relatively new part. Nothing a grinder and cheap rattle can can't fix though, but annoying for an "upgraded" mount.
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Well I am finally getting the rust addressed. Rear valance & passenger rocker rust has been cut out, patch welded, bondo'd and primed...ready for block sanding and reapplication of chip guard.
Found a small hole in passenger wheel well, which caused the rocker rust. Prior to welding in a patch, cavity was sprayed with rust converter and cavity wax to prevent future issues
Also going to get the front valance and IS lip repainted...stay tuned!
Last edited by dmanb2b; 08-03-2020, 06:03 PM.
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Hope everyone has been staying safe! Thankfully, work has been busy. Finally sneaked in a few minutes this weekend and last to start cleaning up the engine bay. Replaced the hood insulation, found a s52 vanity cover that didn't cost more than the motor, and finally decided on a intake setup (Thanks castros !)
And then snuck in a drive before dark...lol
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Originally posted by dmanb2b View Post
It's been a while, but I'm I'm pretty sure we ordered a obd1 blue sensor, and i only re-threaded the brown e30 temp sensor. but this depends on the cylinder head you have. some have two ports some have three. re-threading the sensor is a PITA but with a new sharp die helps a lot.
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Originally posted by TeXJ View Post
Question for you on the front(blue in pic) coolant temp sensor. That one looks like the obd2 sensor? I have a m52 converted to obd1 and my front sensor I have to re-thread the sensor to fit that first hole. The sensor I have to use is for an obd1 m50.
Just wanted to see if there was a better way of doing this so I dont have to re-thread a sensor every time I may need to replace it.
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Originally posted by dmanb2b View Post
Just wanted to see if there was a better way of doing this so I dont have to re-thread a sensor every time I may need to replace it.
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Well it's been a while since my last post. All things said, the car has been running great. I have put approximately 2K miles on since the swap and it's finally feeling broken in. Here are a few pics since pulling her out of storage. Next on the list is some over due rust repair and I guess the catch can set-up is working well...lol. Mostly water...can't imagine all that going back into sump.
Yuck!!!
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