Replacing the heater core wasn't that difficult actually. The center console needs to come out as well as the lower driver's side panel(s) and on the airbag car the knee protector and bracket for it that goes inside the center console. I took the hoses off the ends of the pipes in the engine bay and it is a little tricky pulling the air channel duct off the heater core housing since it's old fragile plastic. Make sure you put a towel down under the pipes to soak up coolant and then unfasten the torx screws holding the heater core in and the clamp on the water valve pipes (up near the firewall). Then pull the heater core out a little so you can unfasten the bolts holding the pipes to it and then slide it out trying not to spill too much coolant. Make sure you don't lose the little rectangle nuts on the pipes because you have to re-use them. The o-rings don't come with the new heater core so you need to order them separate from the BMW dealer. The new heater core comes with a foam strip you cut to fit. I used the old heater core for reference. The foam pads on the near end aren't exactly the same, so I pulled those off the old one and attached them to the new one with some silicone adhesive.
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Maybe that was one of the 90+ changes. I'm not sure if it could be considered a cost cutting measure though since I think it would cost more to fill the rear ducts with foam and the block-off cover doesn't really cost less than the duct piece that connects them.Originally posted by e30austin View PostComment
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So which bulbs fit into the 9FF 085 642-001/BMW pn 62148680130 sockets?If it's got tits or tires, it's gonna cost ya!Comment
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The city light bulb is a T4W (Hella 8GP 002 067-121). It appears to be the same as a 3893 (e.g. Hella H83050041). The BMW part number is 07509063576.Originally posted by Stanley Rockafella View PostComment
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Ah, gotcha!
Thanks! Looking forward to more pics on the headlight progress ;)
Also found that it'll take almost any bulb with a BA 9S base
If it's got tits or tires, it's gonna cost ya!Comment
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Yeah, except the hole in the lens for the bulb is sized for that specific bulb. I tried sticking an LED bulb I have with that base in there and it doesn't fit (too wide).Comment
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Ah gotcha.
You going with colored bulbs?
I currently have some "ice white"/(sorta blueish) bulbs in my citilights of my euro ellips.
If I go this route, I'm considering green citilights to match the greenish hue of the Delphin paint.If it's got tits or tires, it's gonna cost ya!Comment
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No, I’m going with the normal bulbs.Comment
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If it's got tits or tires, it's gonna cost ya!Comment
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The fuel gauge and tach weren't working correctly (PO said he already replaced the fuel level senders). I took the SI board out of the cluster and the batteries are dead and it looks like they've been replaced before with incorrect batteries (3.6V instead of 3V) and the install job is quite a mess. So I took one from a spare cluster (also Motometer, but not sure if that makes a difference) to Batteries Plus to have new batteries installed. Hopefully this fixes it up.
Old board:
New batteries installed on spare board:
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It looks like my spare SI board isn't good. The service indicator lights don't turn on and the tach and mpg gauge twitch when the key isn't in the ignition. So that's a bummer. I have one extra board I can try. I guess I'll move the new batteries over to that one.
Also, I restored the sound system wiring. The PO attempted to wire in an aftermarket radio, bless his heart, but it was just left a mess. The original radio harness was pretty well hacked up, but luckily I found a spare which was complete. I also re-attached the amp connector in the trunk. The amp bypass mod had been attempted with some butt connectors but some of the wires had already come out and I pulled the rest out with my fingers. I made sure I soldered all the restored connections. One thing I need to get is the mounting bracket for the amp because it's missing.
More sad news is that it appears the original radio isn't good. It worked when I first turned it on, but then it just began to produce hissing and crackling sounds. I happen to have a spare amp and I plugged that one in and it behaves the same. I then unplugged the speaker wires from the radio and plugged each one in to test them. Just hissing and crackling from each speaker I tested. Perhaps I can connect a different speaker to the radio without the amp to make a definitive conclusion. One good thing is that the PO said the power antenna doesn't work, but it does. It gets stuck though about half way up, so maybe it could just use a new mast.
I have to admit the original radio looks nice in the dash. :)
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Coat the mast with some graphite - keep polishing and working it up and down until it works smoothly.
My mast used to get stuck, but it's good as new now (or at least it was when I still had a stereo).Comment
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Okay, thanks. That's a good idea.Comment
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Today is my car's birthday. It's 29. :)Comment
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Because I know some of you are interested, here's the sealing cap for the low beams with wiring. I wasn't totally sure if the low beam wire is yellow or gray (I couldn't find a diagram), but I think it's the yellow wire and gray for the city light. The Hella 3893 / T4W city light bulb is 19 cents at 4WP. I ordered 10 to pick up at my local store and it came in a pack of 10. https://www.4wheelparts.com//p/hella.../_/R-BFDP-3893
Here's the pinout:
Pin 1 -> brown wire -> ground
Pin 2 -> yellow wire -> low beam
Pin 3 -> gray wire -> city light
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