Andrew's Sterlingsilber 90 325iS -> 318iS

[Andrew325is]

Thanks.

Now I can take proper runout measurements. I wish I had done that before I had tires mounted on the wheels. This is quite the learning experience. I took one of the wheels back to FWO and they said they fixed it. We shall find out shan't we. :)

[e30RS]

Fantastic build, look forward to monitoring the progress. That drivers seat belt replacement was stiff. Love the color.

[Andrew325is]

I found this article on diagnosing wheel vibration and it shows how to measure runout with a dial indicator. https://www.popularmechanics.com/car...o/a76/1272406/ I'm going to go to HF tomorrow and get a dial indicator.

Here's the BMW E30 instructions for measuring wheel runout: http://www.bmwz1.org/Reparaturanleit.../3610000c.html

It says max radial and lateral runout are both 0.6 mm (0.024").

Here's the instructions for measuring tire runout: http://www.bmwz1.org/Reparaturanleit.../3610000b.html

It says max radial and lateral runout are both 1.6 mm (0.063").

[Andrew325is]

In regards to your vibration issues, there's a test you can do to see if the wheels are seated properly against the hub.

1. jack up any corner of the car as though your going to change the tire...doesn't matter which you choose.
2. remove the bolts from that wheel.
3. as you remove the bolts, the wheel should NOT move at all. The wheel should be suspended against the hub on the center bore of the wheel. Rust/corrosion should no be what's holding it on.
4. if the wheel falls as soon as you start to remove the bolts, you know it's not seating properly and will cause the vibrations as the wheel rotates and shifts it's weight around the hub. Excessive torque does not help seat it any better.

Hope this helps.

I found BMW's instructions for removing/installing wheels. It's quite elaborate. Following their instructions would make it so the test you outlined wouldn't work since they have you clean the mating surfaces of the wheel to the hub with a grinding tool. The tool is like this one: https://www.bavauto.com/bmw-hub-roto...inder-b8800132. Looks like it's basically a fancy polycarbide grinding wheel that fits over the center hub. Could probably just go around it with one of these: https://www.lowes.com/pd/3M-Paint-an...g-Disc/3036320

It doesn't say so but you'd want to wear a dust mask and safety glasses when you do that.

Here are the instructions (for E46):
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...brakes/2ZbATsW

Here's the E30 instructions. Pretty similar, but it doesn't call for using the special cleaning tool. It says, "Clean wheel center centering collar and bearing surfaces of wheel rim and coat with Plastilube".

http://www.bmwz1.org/Reparaturanleitung/pages/en/36100000.html

[jeenyus]

Yeah, I don't know if Bosch would be willing to run a production of those parts again. The minimum order quantity is probably pretty large. At some point it won't be realistic to keep running these old engines using original parts so maybe it's best to convert. Every now and then of course BMW does a run of NLA parts, maybe it's when they get cars into their Classic centre for restoration and a car needs something so they order a run of them. Just a theory.

It's a good theory too. It just sucks it's such a crucial part. This is exactly why i converted to a MAF setup.
I like what you're doing here. The headlights I'm interested in are those ones you referenced way at the beginning of the thread. They looked super cool and I'd love to see them on an E30.

[Andrew325is]

Yeah, I don't know if Bosch would be willing to run a production of those parts again. The minimum order quantity is probably pretty large. At some point it won't be realistic to keep running these old engines using original parts so maybe it's best to convert. Every now and then of course BMW does a run of NLA parts, maybe it's when they get cars into their Classic centre for restoration and a car needs something so they order a run of them. Just a theory.

[jeenyus]

Yeah, I found those on eBay searching online with the Bosch part numbers. The seller has a whole bunch of NOS Bosch parts. Both are no longer in production as you probably know. The ICVs left are whatever BMW still has in their warehouses.

honestly i've looked into this and even thought about reaching out the BOSCH directly. my decision would probably just be to swap over to MSPNP and run a MAP instead. The cost is comparative at that point anyway.

[Andrew325is]

Yeah, I found those on eBay searching online with the Bosch part numbers. The seller has a whole bunch of NOS Bosch parts. Both are no longer in production as you probably know. The ICVs left are whatever BMW still has in their warehouses.

[jeenyus]

nice car. nice progress. I've never seen new ICV or new AFM. Those don't run cheap. A new ICV is like 600$, which is a bunch of bullshit considering how crucial it is on these cars.

[Andrew325is]

I got a new driver's seat belt and receptacle. The old one doesn't retract which is annoying and it's a little bit frayed. Experts say seat belts should be replaced after 10-15 years so it doesn't hurt to replace it at 29 anyways. They say they should be replaced after an accident too, so it wouldn't be a good idea to get a used one from a wrecked car. The passenger seat belts seem to be in good shape. It wouldn't hurt to replace them too, but new ones are very expensive. $300 for just the driver's seat. It would be nice if the red ones were still available.

[Andrew325is]

Okay, I’ll take a look at that. Thanks.

[Stanley Rockafella]

In regards to your vibration issues, there's a test you can do to see if the wheels are seated properly against the hub.

1. jack up any corner of the car as though your going to change the tire...doesn't matter which you choose.
2. remove the bolts from that wheel.
3. as you remove the bolts, the wheel should NOT move at all. The wheel should be suspended against the hub on the center bore of the wheel. Rust/corrosion should no be what's holding it on.
4. if the wheel falls as soon as you start to remove the bolts, you know it's not seating properly and will cause the vibrations as the wheel rotates and shifts it's weight around the hub. Excessive torque does not help seat it any better.

Hope this helps.

[Jokester]

25.5 is great then. Good to see a clean car with good numbers! Keep up the work!

[Andrew325is]

Mixed, but mostly highway. I put my foot down some, but the M20 is so weak it doesn’t really go faster if I do lol. Still enjoyable driving it though. I’m tempted to swap it at some point, but it’s not bad for daily driving as it is.

[Jokester]

25.5 is good. Is it mainly city or highway? Were you putting your foot in it? If you weren’t why even own an e30. lol