Andrew's Sterlingsilber 90 325iS -> 318iS

[jeenyus]

What does POC mean?

People of Color? Also this emoji is racist i just realized...

[Andrew325is]

Damn, Andrew! I'm gonna need that POC for those wheels! I'm jealous! Congrats. I know you've been waiting for a while. Looks good!

What does POC mean?

[rjsimeon]

Damn, Andrew! I'm gonna need that POC for those wheels! I'm jealous! Congrats. I know you've been waiting for a while. Looks good!

[Andrew325is]

I measured the runout on the new rim. It looks like it's within spec. The radial runout on the inner rim well is about 0.5 mm, but it looks like it can be up to 0.6 mm. The radial runout on the outer rim well is about 0.3 mm. Lateral runout on both the inner and outer rim well is about 0.2 mm.

[Andrew325is]

That's great jeenyus!

Another forum member sold me a brand new Nogaro weave. So nice huh! :)

I read on another forum someone complained about the paint job on the new ones and they're right. Whoever BMW contracted to paint them did a terrible job. They didn't mask off the lip so it's coated with overspray. I guess it doesn't matter so much as long as it's straight though. That's the important thing.

[jeenyus]

Yeah that might help. Have you measured the runout? I got an abrasive wheel from Harbor Freight to use on a drill. It works okay, but honestly sand paper by hand works better. So I sanded the corrosion off each hub, cleaned them off, and then applied Syl-Glide, which I think is close enough to the Plastilube BMW calls for. The wheel shop repaired one of the wheels again and I dropped off the other least straight one because I could still feel some vibration. After I cleaned the hubs I put the most straight ones on the front and I couldn't really feel any vibration driving today.

So I took my abrasive wheel I had from another project and it worked really well. I will be posting some pictures on my thread about it, but wanted to say thank you. It most certainly made a difference. It was so incredibly crusty in there. I'm certain it wasn't seating properly. Now i'm driving around 80mph and getting a slight vibration in my steering wheel, which is OK because i accidentally knocked off one of the balancing weights while cleaning the wheel.

At least now it doesn't feel like my car is going to shake into a million pieces while driving 80+ (standard speed here in UT)

[nando]

I'd be willing to test it with my MS3. it's already set up to run the M20 valve. I could easily pop an E36 or E46 one in there to see if it still functions the same. I don't have one, but I can ask around.

Plumbing is an easier problem than coming up with $600 for the original ICV for most people. It's good to have options. :)

[Andrew325is]

I honestly don't think it matters too much. It's just a PWM solenoid. Run it with a resistor if you're worried about it.

Okay, I made a thread asking about that here in the M20 forum, but no one responded. I already got a new M20 one, but this could be good info for someone else. Still just a theory though. It would need to be tested. Plus you'd have to figure out a different arrangement for the side that goes into the stepped rubber boot.

[nando]

I honestly don't think it matters too much. It's just a PWM solenoid. Run it with a resistor if you're worried about it.

[Andrew325is]

The M20B25 ICV is basically electrically identical to what's used on the E36 and E46 - PWM, 12v, 3 wires, 99hz - I'll bet you could make one of them work.

I bought a new one 13 years ago for $75 or something. Man, $600 now? I thought it was expensive before..

I don't know. The resistance is half on the M5x ICV.

[laidback93]

The M20B25 ICV is basically electrically identical to what's used on the E36 and E46 - PWM, 12v, 3 wires, 99hz - I'll bet you could make one of them work.

I bought a new one 13 years ago for $75 or something. Man, $600 now? I thought it was expensive before..

I think my ICV was around $400? My mechanic just replaced it, but I have never seen the itemized W/O as the car is still in California.

[nando]

Yeah, I found those on eBay searching online with the Bosch part numbers. The seller has a whole bunch of NOS Bosch parts. Both are no longer in production as you probably know. The ICVs left are whatever BMW still has in their warehouses.

The M20B25 ICV is basically electrically identical to what's used on the E36 and E46 - PWM, 12v, 3 wires, 99hz - I'll bet you could make one of them work.

I bought a new one 13 years ago for $75 or something. Man, $600 now? I thought it was expensive before..

[Andrew325is]

Yeah that might help. Have you measured the runout? I got an abrasive wheel from Harbor Freight to use on a drill. It works okay, but honestly sand paper by hand works better. So I sanded the corrosion off each hub, cleaned them off, and then applied Syl-Glide, which I think is close enough to the Plastilube BMW calls for. The wheel shop repaired one of the wheels again and I dropped off the other least straight one because I could still feel some vibration. After I cleaned the hubs I put the most straight ones on the front and I couldn't really feel any vibration driving today.

[jeenyus]

This wheel vibration discussion has been very eye opening for me. I've been dealing with it and have taken my wheels to be balanced/road balanced a few times. I am pretty positive it's the mating surface. I have one of those wheels referenced at the end of page 9, so I'll have to clean that surface and I'm almost positive it will fix my vibration around 75 - 80mph.

[Andrew325is]

I measured the runout of all the wheels with my new tool. They're all within spec. Of course that's the tires. I can't measure the wheels directly with the tires on them. BMW says maximum runout is 1.6 mm for the Z1/E30 (source) and 1.3 mm (axial) for E36 one-part alloys (source). Max lateral/axial runout on two of the wheels is 1.3 mm, and 1.0 mm and 0.8 mm for the other two. Radial runout are all within 1 mm. So they're pretty straight. I guess the shop did good straightening them.