Hoffbro's Scheisse-rot Turbo

[Panici]

My wideband is further downstream to save the sensor life due to heat. Also mounted vertically to minimize condensation.

One point to note is that I have it after my first v-band, which will skew the readings if it's leaking. Not ideal but made my life easier when removing the exhaust pipes.
In that case, they'll be skewed lean so the engine will just run a little fat in closed loop or trip the AFR Safety in open loop.

Ran the cable up through the shifter boot. Didn't want to cut/join or shorten as apparently that can skew the readings.

I was running an Innovate LC2, but transferred that over to the Miata. Haven't had an issue with it yet in either car. Have it powered on a switch in the Miata. Idea is to start the engine and then flip the switch to kick on the heater so you don't thermally shock the sensor. Crude but effective, just don't forget to flip on the switch!

I'm running a 14point7 Spartan 3 with LSU ADV sensor in the E30, and the ECU controls the power to the Wideband. Although I've read that this controller automatically times the heater (or monitors temperature?) to prevent thermal shock. Can't remember the details now, only that my ECU control is redundant.


You can see the bung there on the side farthest from the camera.
-

https://flic.kr/p/2oi3Rrs

[Hoffbrohaus]

Ohh that looks great Panici! I should have just done that. But I have no patience so on break today I routed the LC-2 wire through the grommet. I can still drop the sensor past the end of the downpipe I think.

Cut a slit in the grommet on the side of the wiring harness. Probably can't be said enough, be extra careful here. It's a pain in the ass if you cut into the main harness. Don't ask how I know. I had to lube up the slit with soap and the outside of the connector to push it through.


I should have put tape on the end of the connector. I cleaned it up with a small metal pick, but just tape it and learn from my mistake.


So here's the big end hanging down by the batter tray. Should work OK.

[Hoffbrohaus]

Also spent some time clamping things down. I had put in a one way valve where the gas tank/charcoal canister vents. Read that this needs to be clamped. Sorry for the blurry picture.



Then dealing with the throttle body hose and iac. CATuned doesn't have a silicone boot for my 1990 in stock. So I went to siliconeintakes.com and bought:
- 2.75 to 2.5 reducing 90 degree bend. Black is out of stock but I will be ordering it as soon as it's back.
- Silicone port system to tap the elbow
- and a 1/2in NPT to 3/4 in barbed 90 elbow to run to the iac.



And then clamped it all down. 1" hose stretched over the iac fine and fit the 3/4 barb too.

[Dj Buttchug]

Decent progress. Cars gonna rip!

[zwill23]

Looking sweet! As another turbo M20 in a hot climate, you may find that intercooler to be a bit small. I had mine tuned during Texas summer and the tuner wasn't thrilled with my IATs with an intercooler about double the size and I'm right at your power goal.

I've never had major issues with the LC2, but I ended up purchasing an AEM wideband out of frustration of the LC2 controller resetting itself while driving. I just run both now, one to a gauge and the AEM directly to the Megasquirt. I notice the LC2 reset itself on the gauge from time to time, but the AEM has remained rock solid for me and I don't need to remove it from the downpipe to calibrate it.

[Hoffbrohaus]

Looking sweet! As another turbo M20 in a hot climate, you may find that intercooler to be a bit small. I had mine tuned during Texas summer and the tuner wasn't thrilled with my IATs with an intercooler about double the size and I'm right at your power goal.

Oof that's not good for me. We get way hotter than Texas. I better re-read corky bell's book. All the calculations I did said that's all the intercooler I'd need. I have resigned to the fact that I won't be driving in the summer. Certainly not sitting in stop and go traffic at 3 in the afternoon. I do plan to coat the header, turbo exhaust housing, and downpipe with swaincoat's white lightning to help keep engine bay temps down. And thinking about intercooler spray/mist since it's so dry here the evaporative cooling should be good. But yea cooling is a major concern for me.

[zwill23]

Oof that's not good for me. We get way hotter than Texas. I better re-read corky bell's book. All the calculations I did said that's all the intercooler I'd need. I have resigned to the fact that I won't be driving in the summer. Certainly not sitting in stop and go traffic at 3 in the afternoon. I do plan to coat the header, turbo exhaust housing, and downpipe with swaincoat's white lightning to help keep engine bay temps down. And thinking about intercooler spray/mist since it's so dry here the evaporative cooling should be good. But yea cooling is a major concern for me.

Great book!! I used that too! Not sure about your radiator setup, but the best thing I did for mine was use a stock E46 M3 radiator. It drops right in and my coolant temps have been great since. I initially used a mishimoto aluminum radiator and I kept running into cooling issues during summer time.

In terms of the intercooler, if that’s a good quality one maybe it’s fine! Just thought I’d share my experience.

[Panici]

Also spent some time clamping things down. I had put in a one way valve where the gas tank/charcoal canister vents. Read that this needs to be clamped.

How my system works: (Can't remember now if this is all E30/M20 parts or if there is some M52 mixed in there?)

The gas tank vent line is always open to the charcoal canister so that the tank can breathe in/out through the charcoal without fumes.
When the purge valve opens, it pulls the fuel vapors out of the charcoal canister to be burned in the engine.


You still have the charcoal canister in place and the electronic purge valve?
Are you controlling the purge valve from your ECU?

Shouldn't need a check valve in that case. Just program the ECU to only open that purge valve under high vacuum cruise conditions.

[Hoffbrohaus]

How my system works: (Can't remember now if this is all E30/M20 parts or if there is some M52 mixed in there?)

The gas tank vent line is always open to the charcoal canister so that the tank can breathe in/out through the charcoal without fumes.
When the purge valve opens, it pulls the fuel vapors out of the charcoal canister to be burned in the engine.


You still have the charcoal canister in place and the electronic purge valve?
Are you controlling the purge valve from your ECU?

Shouldn't need a check valve in that case. Just program the ECU to only open that purge valve under high vacuum cruise conditions.

Interesting, I am running the charcoal canister still, although it's original and probably not doing much. I don't know if the the MSPNP2 is controlling the purge valve. I'll have to search around Tuner Studio to see where that setting might be. Not a big deal to have that check valve but I do like pulling out things I don't need!

[Panici]

Interesting, I am running the charcoal canister still, although it's original and probably not doing much. I don't know if the the MSPNP2 is controlling the purge valve. I'll have to search around Tuner Studio to see where that setting might be. Not a big deal to have that check valve but I do like pulling out things I don't need!

I don't know if the charcoal canisters have a defined life.
I know you can kill them with liquid fuel or if you completely saturate them with vapor (no vacuum source to purge them).

Using the original charcoal canister in my car as well. It's parked inside 99% of the time, and never smell even a hint of raw fuel from it.

[mikey.antonakakis]

My wideband is further downstream to save the sensor life due to heat. Also mounted vertically to minimize condensation.

Mine is mounted almost identically

[Hoffbrohaus]

Spent some time cleaning up the cut I made on the driver's side for the intercooler pipe. There are some nice Dremel attachments that smoothed out the metal. I then split open a rubber tube and glued it around the edge. Not super pretty but better and I'll feel better about stuffing wires down there.





I have a mobile welder coming over later this week to cut and weld my downpipe and dump pipe.



He doesn't have a TIG to do aluminum but said he still could weld my charge pipe and one other intercooler pipe, it just won't look as pretty as TIG. So i'll give it a try, rather have welded pipes than 2 extra fail points. So this will be the before pic:




Finished my oil drain & feed lines so it was time to put some oil in and start it up for a the first time :) I didn't run it long, just wanted the oil to circulate, so far no oil leaks!

[Hoffbrohaus]

Just got these delivered. The welder never showed up so I still need a downpipe and one of my intake pipes welded. Scheduled a spot on Wednesday at the muffler shop for the 3" back to the muffler.

[Hoffbrohaus]

Headed to the exhaust shop tomorrow. No bov, no iat, no O2. But only have to drive 4 miles.

[Hoffbrohaus]

Exhaust shop wouldn't do the work without a downpipe. And they wouldn't do a downpipe for me. So I found a friend that could do it.