Rust goes both ways

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  • caffeinatedsoap
    replied
    Today I had two eager volunteers. Bruce and Brandon. Little did they know what they were getting into, bushings. Out with the old in with the new.

    First we start off with a picture of my differential


    This has nothing to do with anything at the moment.

    Out with the old subframe. What a bitch. In the other post when I was talking about the subframe not dropping out I didn't know there was brackets holding it on. Got 3 out and stripped one. Not bad!

    After some motivating I got the last one out and then hammered away at the trailing arms until they bent and blam the subframe dropped out.

    Its a good thing I'm replacing it because its become extremely blurry.


    This is the bent part of the subframe that caused my wheel to have excessive positive camber.


    Got the trailing arms off. Also my old stuff had abs and my new stuff does not so no more abs.

    Quick run down of things I'm not going to have:
    ABS
    Ebrake
    Dignity


    Cleaning up the rust for now



    Out with the old


    "Hi I'm bruce" says bruce


    Trying to take apart the brake assembly


    One of those damn bolts that holds the rotor on is stupid stripped out and now has a broken easy out in it. Its going to have to go to a shop eventually.

    This use to be car. Also I look silly without a beard.


    Fancy bushing tool. OEM BMW.



    Air tools


    Old bushings. How am I suppose to get these out? I know, my neighbor Karl.



    One Karl later and they are out. Easy as that!


    $15 a piece.


    I put the trailing arms back on the subframe and realized that there is no way I'm getting this back on the car by myself. So much for tonight

    Time for one of these.


    You may have noticed the quality of my commenting going downhill. That's cool but if you have any questions about how I did anything let me know I may be sober enough to answer.

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  • caffeinatedsoap
    replied
    Originally posted by TwoJ's
    Holy shit, do yourself a huge favor and just make the thing safely/reliably drivable. Then daily drive the shit out of it until it rusts away and then sell the thing for parts.
    Oh this is exactly what I plan to do. I've always wanted an e30 so why not get a bad one so I can get it out of my system?

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  • caffeinatedsoap
    replied
    Got the diff out! I may have dropped it about 6 inches I hope it'll be ok. I'm not going to clean it up and paint it in the same stylish way as my subframe as I'm afraid its covered in structural rust.


    The ebrake cable was rusted to the hub and the slider mechanisim was rusted together so I said fuck it, its not like I live in hilly Kentucky or anything... er shit. If anyone wants to donate a pair I'd be happy to get them then wait months and months to install them.



    I loosened the subframe nuts expecting it to just drop out. No such luck. I read a post on e30tech where one of their bushings was already split and they just wedged the other out but I have no such luck. Any suggestions?

    I think I need another one of these

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  • TwoJ's
    replied
    Holy shit, do yourself a huge favor and just make the thing safely/reliably drivable. Then daily drive the shit out of it until it rusts away and then sell the thing for parts.

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  • caffeinatedsoap
    replied
    Originally posted by Mossman
    i am sorry for you, so I'll try to help.

    As for your current predicament have you broken the bolt free yet or not? box end wrench is the only way to go, with another wrench looped on for extra leverage. Once you have it loose you should be fine, keep pressure on the diff with the jack so you're not putting all the weight of the diff on that bolt. I always leave the big bushing bolt for last to hold the thing in place til I'm ready to drop it.

    As for the ebrake cable, where the cable goes in to that do-dad there's a pin that you have to punch through, can be a pain in the ass sometimes cuz you'll have to brace the do-dad against something to give it a decent whack with a hammer and punch. The part that pivots is like a sheath over this and will have to be rotated away to expose the pin that's gotta go.
    Ah its a lot like my M then. Now the part that gets me is the cable its self isn't screwed into anything is it? If not then it is rusted to the hub. Also that do-dad is stupid rusty as well.

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  • Mossman
    replied
    i am sorry for you, so I'll try to help.

    As for your current predicament have you broken the bolt free yet or not? box end wrench is the only way to go, with another wrench looped on for extra leverage. Once you have it loose you should be fine, keep pressure on the diff with the jack so you're not putting all the weight of the diff on that bolt. I always leave the big bushing bolt for last to hold the thing in place til I'm ready to drop it.

    As for the ebrake cable, where the cable goes in to that do-dad there's a pin that you have to punch through, can be a pain in the ass sometimes cuz you'll have to brace the do-dad against something to give it a decent whack with a hammer and punch. The part that pivots is like a sheath over this and will have to be rotated away to expose the pin that's gotta go.

    Leave a comment:


  • caffeinatedsoap
    replied
    Originally posted by ikkitousen
    I think you guys are missing the point of "Projects" and the need for a beater for DD comuting. Its not gonna see the track, it just needs to get him to and from. If it all ends up pink and glory holes in the door, thats his perogivite. Maybe hes moving to SF... No one knows! We all know that car is dead really, so help the guy out huh? Don't hate, Motivate!

    GO PINK WITH GLORY HOLES!!!

    --------------------------------------------------------
    DAMN CASTRO CARS!!!
    Its not cheating if you don't look them in the eyes.

    Leave a comment:


  • caffeinatedsoap
    replied
    I'm not very good at this whole being a mechanic thing, it takes me way to long to get anything done.

    Did get the brake lines loose!


    Trying my damnedest to get ready for the diff.


    Does anyone know how to get the ebrake cable loose?


    I can't get the top passenger side bolt out that holds the diff to the subframe. Its quite hard and I think I may have pulled something. Oh well so much for one night.

    Leave a comment:


  • ikkitousen
    replied
    I think you guys are missing the point of "Projects" and the need for a beater for DD comuting. Its not gonna see the track, it just needs to get him to and from. If it all ends up pink and glory holes in the door, thats his perogivite. Maybe hes moving to SF... No one knows! We all know that car is dead really, so help the guy out huh? Don't hate, Motivate!

    GO PINK WITH GLORY HOLES!!!

    --------------------------------------------------------
    DAMN CASTRO CARS!!!

    Leave a comment:


  • caffeinatedsoap
    replied
    Originally posted by ColdAccord
    meh. since you're down there, I would have just paid $1k for something that was rust free but needed work. At least then the end would justify the means. With a rusty chassis, you can sink as much as you want into it maintenance wise. You still won't get anything out of it
    Rust me, it'll work out.

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  • ColdAccord
    replied
    meh. since you're down there, I would have just paid $1k for something that was rust free but needed work. At least then the end would justify the means. With a rusty chassis, you can sink as much as you want into it maintenance wise. You still won't get anything out of it

    Leave a comment:


  • caffeinatedsoap
    replied
    Just go the axles loose. Also fuck spiders. I hate spiders.

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  • caffeinatedsoap
    replied
    Don't be sorry, be rusty!

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  • e30slut
    replied
    WTF? so poeple soak their E30's in salt/acid-water now?

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  • 87e30
    replied
    I'm sorry.

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