Strict budget, slow restoration. *Now with moar budget*

[DrLeadFoot]

Just read the whole thread. Amazing "get-r-done" approach to your car. In the mall parking lot?!?!?

[Ruskii]

Bored at work; just read through your thread too, and I give you mad props! :D

[masduro]

I sold one one my e30's to kid like you, then he rolled it.

awesome.

[BrownBeanE30]

fuck nate your car is coming out pretty nicely :)

[Cronopoulos]

Just read through your build thread, awesome progress and dedication!

[Jand3rson]

Nate, that is the best fucking photobomb EVER.

[Wh33lhop]

Someone's gotta show those silly Evo guys how the E30 crowd rolls. :p

[e30trooper]

how did you wire up your fx-r highs and high beams? I just ordered some fx-r 1st gens , but i have a early so when i hit the highs my lows turn off.

[Wh33lhop]

Wire up the solenoids in parallel to your regular high beams, then connect the high beam signal to the relay trigger with a diode--the anode (the striped end) should be on the low beam side of the diode. My wiring is still pretty ghetto-fab so I'm not going to post pictures, but that's the gist.

[ak-]

LOL @ photobomb

[mr.vang]

so you carry all those tools in the trunk? i just finish reading all 30 pages. nice....

[e30trooper]

Wire up the solenoids in parallel to your regular high beams, then connect the high beam signal to the relay trigger with a diode--the anode (the striped end) should be on the low beam side of the diode. My wiring is still pretty ghetto-fab so I'm not going to post pictures, but that's the gist.

thanks man! Should be getting my lights in about a week. Whats bulbs are you running?

ps , can you PM me a pic? Im not sure what relay your talking about. thanks again

[audiphile]

it's been said before, but I'll say it again, best thread ever. thanks and keep it up!

[Wh33lhop]

Wh33lhop vs. C300 rental that we took to see Metallica



Racing 14/15 second cars is basically competing in the special olympics, but fuck it, it's fun.

[Wh33lhop]

Subframe time!



I started by supporting the subframe and removing the main subframe nuts. These are 22s, if you don't have a deep 22 yet, you'll need one for your crank pulley when you do a timing belt, and for steering wheel removal.


Remove the allen key bolts here. The subframe retaining tabs can come out then. (yes I use my frame rails as jackstand points, they're already folded over)




Time to undo the ebrake. I did it from the rear. After you've got the caliper/rotor off you'll need to use some strong needlenose pliers to unclip two springs, one up here


And one down here


You are supposed to use an allen key for these suckers, but I just used pliers. Grab it


Rotate 90 degrees and pull out.
There's one for each shoe.

Grab the shoes and adjuster at the top and don't lose anything. Now you can actually undo the cable. There's a little pin fastening the cable to the actuator. Don't lose it.


Here's what the actuator looks like, normally it's folded together so the pin is retained.


And here's the whole assembly


Remove speed sensors if you plan on retaining your ABS (mine doesn't work but for dexterity's sake..)


Undo the little clips


Unhook swaybars (I need to re-adjust that one, looks like it came loose)


Don't forget the exhaust, chassis-to-trailing arm brake lines, driveshaft, shocks, diff bushing bolt, speed sensor in the diff and whatever else I didn't take pictures of.

It came out with relatively little drama. Lucky me.


Get to work!


I fashioned a little press for the trailing arm bushings. M12 or 7/16" threaded rod, bolts, washers and 1 1/4" pipe and cap to press the bushing out into. You'll have to cut up the end of the bushing a little in order for it to come out with no drama.


My diff was grimy as fuck and my friend left his pressure washer at my house


You can actually see the stamp of approval now, haha


I just drilled some holes in the diff bushing and punched it out with a BFH. Later I'll thread a hack saw through the metal ring and finish getting it out.


Good view of UUC swaybar reinforcements


Shit's dirty yo


And pressing a trailing arm bushing back in. Just use soap and water as a lubricant, works fine.


Oh and here's why I'm going to this trouble


More when I finish up.