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    S50 E30 Project...

    I'm going to be doing a bunch of work to my S50 E30 over the next few months, so I figured I'd start a thread to post pictures and info...

    The car has been sitting in my warehouse since November. I was autocrossing and started getting a nasty noise from the clutch. Driving it back home (I was on a temporary tag back then, which has since expired) things got much worse, to the point where I could barely get in and out of gears, and the noise coming from both transmission and engine is just nasty.

    So, it's been parked since then. I finally towed it home last weekend and put it up on jackstands. I drained the oil just to check for metal. Nothing found, the oil is good and clean. It's got maybe 25 miles on it, and is Motul Chrono 10w40. At $17.50/quart, it's too good to just throw out, so it'll get strained and put back into the engine. (http://www.chartersventures.com/car/...50e30motul.jpg)

    At a party over the weekend, a friend who has an S50 E36 suggested that the noise I was hearing is probably the flywheel moving around, as he thinks the flywheel bolts have backed out. He had this problem with his E36, and he's running the same UUC flywheel and clutch as I am. That would also explain the issues shifting, and the flywheel moving around would definitely cause the entire crank to move, which is why I'm getting sound from the engine and front harmonic balancer.

    So, the transmission will come out sometime in the next month and I'll see what's what.

    At the same time as I've got her on jackstands to do that work, I'm going to do the necessary things to pass smog. When I first brought the car into California back in 2007, the smog referee noted a few things I need in order to pass smog:

    - Catalytic converter.
    - "Check Engine" light.
    - Re-position the O2 sensor.
    - Charcoal canister.

    I have the catalytic converter -- it's a Random Tech unit. (http://www.chartersventures.com/car/...omtechcat1.jpg) I'll have to pull the exhaust in order to remove the transmission anyways, so while it's out I'll have it modified to accommodate the catalytic converter. Also, the smog referee noticed that the car has OBDII S52 exhaust manifolds which each have a bung for an O2 sensor. He says I need to fill all factory ports with functioning O2 sensors, which means I'd need to have a second O2 sensor (there is currently only one installed, in the rearmost exhaust header). However, since I'm OBDI, it makes more sense to just install the single O2 sensor farther downstream in the exhaust system, past the collector, just in front of the cat. So, I'll pull the S52 manifolds and either fill and re-wrap the O2 sensor bungs or just switch to S50 manifolds (or perhaps an aftermarket header).

    The charcoal canister is pretty straightforward. I have the parts, just need to install it.

    The check engine light will be the hard part. The cluster isn't stock anymore (it has a BMP/VDO setup, see the following photo: http://www.chartersventures.com/car/.../e30cage08.jpg), which means I need to figure out which wires in the harness to tap into in order to get the check engine light signal. I suck at electrical stuff, so it'll be a challenge.

    Lastly, a friend has a 3.25LSD which he offered me. It needs a bit of love, so I'll give it some attention and then install it when I button things back up.

    Oh, and I just might get the BBS RS003s refinished (silver centers, polished lips) while it's up in the air.

    On to the pictures. Here's how she sits as of tonight. If you look closely you can see a nice layer of dust.



    Random undercarriage pics:





    And the oil that I drained this past weekend:




    That's it for now.
    Last edited by Ben Carufel; 07-15-2009, 07:04 AM.

    #2
    i love threads like this. looking forward to more progress pics!

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by Ben Carufel View Post
      Also, the smog referee noticed that the car has OBDII S52 exhaust manifolds which each have a bung for an O2 sensor. He says I need to fill all factory ports with functioning O2 sensors, which means I'd need to have a second O2 sensor
      Bummer. They didn't do this to me. Mine is in the back header like yours was.

      Comment


        #4
        subscribed
        AW 89' 325i Vert - SOLD

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          #5
          Originally posted by trent View Post
          Bummer. They didn't do this to me. Mine is in the back header like yours was.
          Yeah, kind of blows, but oh well. He was a pretty cool dude otherwise.

          Comment


            #6
            Can you post more pics of that good looking Subaru?

            Originally posted by Ben Carufel View Post
            When I first brought the car into California back in 2007, the smog referee noted a few things I need in order to pass smog:

            - Catalytic converter.
            - "Check Engine" light.
            - Re-position the O2 sensor.
            - Charcoal canister.
            I thought you told me that he said you need to install an O2 sensor because he didn't see the one that was already installed...

            Originally posted by Ben Carufel View Post
            The check engine light will be the hard part. The cluster isn't stock anymore, which means I need to figure out which wires in the harness to tap into in order to get the check engine light signal. I suck at electrical stuff, so it'll be a challenge.
            Ahem.
            sigpic

            Comment


              #7
              is that a subaru i see?
              :borg:

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by kellie View Post
                Can you post more pics of that good looking Subaru?



                Originally posted by kellie
                I thought you told me that he said you need to install an O2 sensor because he didn't see the one that was already installed...
                On the inspection report it says "Install O2 Sensor". The way he explained it, though, is that he "wants to see a sensor in any place the factory intended there to be one". I didn't feel like arguing with him about the fact that they're OBDII headers. Figured it'd be best to just nod and agree to do what he wants (sort of).


                Originally posted by kellie
                Ahem.
                Well, have at it by all means! God knows I don't want to have to figure it out :).

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by !kid View Post
                  is that a subaru i see?
                  Yep. See above. It's Kellie's.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I love this car - couldn't believe Mtriple would get rid of something like this!

                    Flywheel coming adrift sounds rather munted. That'll have some not-so-nice effect on crank endfloat won't it?
                    Pork Hunt Motorsport

                    eBay is like the summit racing catalog for today's special Olympics crowd

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                      #11
                      Your restoring a set of bbs rs 001 for this thing? You have the 003's don't you?

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Eeeeexcellent.
                        paint sucks

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by Mfever View Post
                          Your restoring a set of bbs rs 001 for this thing? You have the 003's don't you?
                          Thank you for catching that. I am going to have the RS003s refinished. I sold my RS001s over a year ago.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            The CEL signal is at E36 x20 pin 8 (gray). It should be hooked up to E30 C101 pin 12 (gray).

                            You must also power E36 x20 pin 22 (green/white) to be able to reset the CEL. Most harness adapters power x20 pin 22 through C101 pin 6 (green/yellow).

                            Originally posted by whysimon
                            WTF is hello Kitty (I'm 28 with no kids and I don't have cable)

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by FredK View Post
                              The CEL signal is at E36 x20 pin 8 (gray). It should be hooked up to E30 C101 pin 12 (gray).

                              You must also power E36 x20 pin 22 (green/white) to be able to reset the CEL. Most harness adapters power x20 pin 22 through C101 pin 6 (green/yellow).
                              Do you speak English?

                              Comment

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