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    Originally posted by Fair! View Post
    Update: the manual E36 brakes on our E30 suuuuuuuucked at the GRM Challenge event last weekend. :(

    VERY high pedal effort needed, terrible balance, total lack of stopping power without hundreds of pounds of pedal effort. We're going back to square one on that.
    You need de HydroBoost!! :D
    E30-LS1 aka. 357is
    email us to pick up our LS1 swap guide
    E30-LS1 KITS now available!!
    E30LS1@gmail.com
    e30ls1.com

    Comment


      Your bushing looked like that because you are missing the bottom plate that screws in with the two allen screws to below the quarterpanel in front of the rear wheel.

      Comment


        Originally posted by garretvs View Post
        You need de HydroBoost!! :D
        Yea... for a street car I think that would be ideal. But we're going for a more lightweight set-up now, and to keep it simpler and more reliable we might ditch the power steering system (pump, cooler, lines, etc) all together... so hydroboost is out for us. We have some custom rotor/caliper ideas + a different M.C. we're working on to fix our braking issues once and for all.
        Terry Fair - www.vorshlag.com
        Project Thread for the now-burned-to-a-crisp $2011 GRM Challenge Winning E30 V8 :(

        Comment


          Originally posted by garretvs View Post
          You need de HydroBoost!! :D
          Or a more appropriate pedal ratio and correctly sized MC. The stock pedal assembly is easy to modify to attain a better pedal ratio. Manual brakes are surprisingly good when setup correctly!

          Diving into aftermarket parts for a greater selection of master cylinder sizes might be a good route for the Vorshlag guys. Should their budget allow, Wilwood makes a nice dual circuit master cylinder that could work well with a manual setup using stock pedals. Or go all out and simply get a Wilwood or Tilton pedal assembly. Wilwood pedal assemblies go for under $190 on Ebay (probably cheaper used) and "knockoff" master cylinders are $39 each all over the place. With dual master cylinders and a balance bar there is no such thing as "terrible balance".

          Comment


            Wow. Great job on that "Blue Lagoon Special".

            Subframe bushing - Yup. You need the lower plate that also bolts to the rockers.

            Brakes (for those who enquired) - You need to compensate the removal of the booster by a reduction in MC size (19mm seems okay - from e21 - no ABS though) and increase in leverage. The MC must therefore be raised perhaps 3/4" and the pick-up on the pedal stem must be raised by the same distance (reinforce the pedal stem at the new pick-up area). Leverage ratio between 6:1 to 7:1 is what you want. Also, don't be shy to fit grippy pads. Hawk's HT10 fir the bill. ;-)
            Brake harder. Go faster. No shit.

            massivebrakes.com

            http://www.facebook.com/pages/Massiv...78417442267056





            Comment


              Originally posted by Fair! View Post
              Yea... for a street car I think that would be ideal. But we're going for a more lightweight set-up now, and to keep it simpler and more reliable we might ditch the power steering system (pump, cooler, lines, etc) all together... so hydroboost is out for us. We have some custom rotor/caliper ideas + a different M.C. we're working on to fix our braking issues once and for all.

              We took a look at a 7" dual-diaphragm vacuum booster and mounted a late-90's Oldsmobile master cylinder to it. The system mounted in the same way as the HB. We developed it part way in Catia, and bought a booster & Olds MC. Holding it in the engine bay, there is room for such a system. Contact Steve at E30LS1@gmail for a pic of the unit.
              E30-LS1 aka. 357is
              email us to pick up our LS1 swap guide
              E30-LS1 KITS now available!!
              E30LS1@gmail.com
              e30ls1.com

              Comment


                wth, this thread totally dropped off..
                Updates, I'm following :)

                Comment


                  Update: Progress was slow for a while. I broke a finger on my right hand, and it was casted for 5 weeks, and useless for another 2. Ive been in the garage quite a bit lately, and with the help of some friends made some good progress! My friend Julian has been a huge help; especially with the wiring.

                  modified my radiator for some clearance, and so I wouldnt have to go on a search for some elaborate hoses. Both the inlet and outlet are now welded at 90 degrees. I also had Rick weld an aluminum adapter to the inlet for a coolant temp sensor




                  The outlet on the radiator is now 2" connection on the water pump was 1.5". I had a hell of a time finding a hose that worked, but here it is


                  This setup provides some decent clearance for the intake and belt tensioner considering the size of this engine bay




                  I then had to figure out a way to plump the steam vent back into the cooling system. I ran a line from the vent and tee'd it into a looped section where the heater lines were.





                  Installed this Derale pusher fan. Its only 12.5", but it moves 2150 cfm.



                  Also plumbed in this gorgeous overflow tank lol.



                  Next is started working on the gauges. I have a water temp, oil temp, and oil pressure gauge



                  I made a template and had Rick make me this plate for a switch pannel





                  the panel has a switch for my fan setup, for my gauge, and a toggle for push button start.





                  I also put in a 350mm Sparco steering wheel



                  put all the pieces of my intake together, and tapped it for the intake temp sensor. I made a support bracket out of some aluminum flat stock





                  Here is the engine bay as it sits. I wrapped the intake elbow in some 1500 degree insulation tape. You can also see the line for the overflow tank and the throttle cable.



                  I drove the car for the first time this past weekend, which was a huge milestone for me. I wanted to drive it before the new yr. The car is running really rich because I didnt have the o2 sensors connected, which fouled out the plugs. I went and bought new plugs and some o2 sensors today. I also took my y-pipe to have 02 sensor bungs added today. This week I plan on putting the y pipe back in, adding some clearance at the rear subframe for the driveshaft, and looming the wiring.

                  -Matt
                  My LS1 swap thread:
                  http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=160030

                  Comment


                    Good to see you finally got the beast out on the road!

                    Comment


                      Glad to see there's some progress. Keep on the good work.
                      Brake harder. Go faster. No shit.

                      massivebrakes.com

                      http://www.facebook.com/pages/Massiv...78417442267056





                      Comment


                        Originally posted by Fair! View Post
                        Yea... for a street car I think that would be ideal. But we're going for a more lightweight set-up now, and to keep it simpler and more reliable we might ditch the power steering system (pump, cooler, lines, etc) all together... so hydroboost is out for us. We have some custom rotor/caliper ideas + a different M.C. we're working on to fix our braking issues once and for all.
                        Hi Terry

                        Increase pedal leverage from 4 to 6:1 + small MC + bigger caliper pistons + grippy pads. But I am sure you knew already ;-)
                        Brake harder. Go faster. No shit.

                        massivebrakes.com

                        http://www.facebook.com/pages/Massiv...78417442267056





                        Comment


                          Thanks guys.
                          Well turns out my sweet pnp 3.73 lsd is a piece of crap. It whines like crazy, and seems to be binding a bit. I am looking at biting the bullet and going for a diffsonline diff. I am still doing a bunch of research, and trying to decide what ramp angles and gearing would be right for the car.

                          More to come on that soon...
                          My LS1 swap thread:
                          http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=160030

                          Comment


                            Got a couple of things done this weekend.

                            My rear tires were locking up before the fronts, so i bought this slick little prop valve


                            I was gonna put it at the MC but it is already a cluster fuck, so i made up this little loop section and put it at the ABS




                            Havent messed with it yet, but hopefully i can get the bias dialed in.

                            Also i finally remote mounted the coil that didnt fit


                            My LS1 swap thread:
                            http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=160030

                            Comment


                              I'm coming down to el paso when your ready.

                              Comment


                                Other than the lockup... how are the boosterless brakes working?
                                e30sport.net
                                '86 325es - s54b32tu - 6-speed - Mtech 1
                                '89 325is - m20b25 - 5-speed - Individual​
                                '06 M3 Competition - 6-speed
                                '19 Porsche GT3 RS - 7-speed PDK
                                '94 Lancia Delta HF Integrale EvoII - Giallo Ginestra
                                '97 Range Rover Vitesse

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