s50b32 e30 325i tech1 project

[HybridNz]

New Audi 80 25mm one, not sure what you mean by golf 1, I know mine fit my golf mk1 1.3ltr booster perfectly.

[Mr. Horsepower]

Golf 1 = Golk MK1.... I have Golf MK1 booster as well. But I use the E30 master cylinder.
Result is that it hits the intake hose, so that had to be knocked a bit with a hammer.

What Audi 80, do you have a P/N?
And where do the thermostat you put in the radiator come from?

[Mr. Horsepower]

Golf 1 = Golk MK1.... I have Golf MK1 booster as well. But I use the E30 master cylinder.
Result is that it hits the intake hose, so that had to be knocked a bit with a hammer.

What Audi 80, do you have a P/N?
And where do the thermostat you put in the radiator come from?

[HybridNz]

Did you relocate your booster/MC setup at all? I still shifted mine over around 40mm I think it was in the end, this got rid of the problem completely. See pics for details .. let me know if you want the pattern for laser cutting the metal for the relocation plates.

[Mr. Horsepower]

Don't want to cut my firewall like you did. I had the intake plenum welded around the Golf MK1 booster.

But about the temperature transmitter you put in the radiator, what car is that from?
Need one myself.

[HybridNz]

But about the temperature transmitter you put in the radiator, what car is that from?
Need one myself.

e28 single stage radiator temp switch. Im thinking about replacing it with a dual stage one as my fan supports two speeds which is handy in summer for standing in traffic.

[Mr. Horsepower]

Ok. I also have a dual stage fan, but I can only get the high speed to work.
But the engine cools very well, so don't think there will be any problems.
On my S14 it was a radiator temp switch like you got, and that only run on high speed on the fan.

Don't know why my low speed don't work. I have tried to jump start the fan as well but no response on low speed.

[Massive Lee]

Don't know why my low speed don't work. I have tried to jump start the fan as well but no response on low speed.

Ballast resistor is most likely dead.

[Mr. Horsepower]

That would be the small thing laying on the outside of the fan right?
With one cable in and one out.

[HybridNz]

First off, having a full functional ODBII port in the e30 has maximum novelty factor and its not wearing off! :)

Was mucking around tonight checking the live data and decided to give the car a scan to see what had popped up over the past month and a bit.

error 42 translated means speed signal was interupted at some point.

error 48 translated means the Air-con relays aren't responding, thats cause there are none :)

I also reset the service interval




Faults cleared and only the air conditioning relay fault (which the car doesnt have) so im happy with that) I will continue testing to see if the other error comes back. Its not a major however is just the speed sensor.

[HybridNz]

So today thanks to Ray @ Hellbm (http://www.hellbm.com) converted my horrible e30 window switches to then nice 'click' feel of the e36 switches.

I first tried some green base switches which as I found out dont work. This is because the later model switches are infact digital encoder switches and only tell the general module (GM) to activate the electric window relays. E30's obviously didnt have such technology so I went for a white base switch.




So I decided to include a small write up to help others, this also includes a wiring diagram from the info I had at hand.

Green base switches (dont use these! :) )


Green base digital encoder


Green base pulled apart




White base switch (Use this or Blue base). Notice the thicker wiring


Inside the switch


Proper high current switch contacts to deal with the current from the electric window motors.




Before starting any of this DISCONNECT YOUR BATTERY FROM THE TERMINALS
My brother has had a high current burn before and it burnt a hole right through his hand once, crossing these wires will do the same if you short them

So lets get started,

Remove the gear shifter boot. and remove the e30 window switches, unplug the e30 loom end and we cut the plug off.





Twist the wires on following the wiring diagram carefully. Use electrical tape to shield the wires from each other (make sure you have it all covered) and reconnect the battery, turn the key to postion 2, and test you windows. You should also have the LED light up (you switch should glow)



After this, disconnect the battery and tin / solder all wires on the switches and e30 loom end.

Right nows the time to enlarge the switch hole in the console to fit the larger e36 switch. I took my time with this and used a half round/flat file. I thought about using my dremel but there is a risk of over shooting the mark and cutting too much off. constantly test fit the switch and surround



BEFORE you solder the wires together, run them through the enlarged hole. You dont HAVE to do this .. but it makes it easier to locate the switch.

Use heat shrink and a heat gun to shirnk up the tubes.CAREFUL DONT MELT YOU CONSOLE! :)



Repeat all of this for the other side, obviously following the wiring diagram to suit your switch type. My second switch was from the rear e36 switch panel so it had different colours I have included it in the wiring diagram.





Put it all back together and reconnect the battery and test.

All Done! :)

[benge100]

Just read all the tread,

Breathtaking !!!!

Great work....

[CorvallisBMW]

I've got to do the window switch swap, thanks for such a good writeup!

[Iain]

I like your shifter. DTM set-up, yo?

[NastyNate1]

Gotta say the last 11 pages were stunning most likely the best build thread ive seen.