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Psyber_0ptix's AutoX/DD 318i Build

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    Psyber_0ptix's AutoX/DD 318i Build

    I sold my swapped impreza L (274awhp untuned) for college tuition. I've gone 3 years riding the bus 3 hours/day to and from school. I'm all for public transportation but at this point, I waste so much time commuting that it started affecting my grades. It only takes 30 minutes each way by car/motorcycle. I decided to get back into cars.

    I'm still new to BMW. My first, e30, I purchased last February due to my girlfriends car having issues. We needed a more reliable car. Unfortunately the 85 318i I picked up had some substantial rust on the frame rail and I thought it would be irresponsible to sell it knowing someone could get hurt by a control arm falling off the car.

    I picked up a late model 318i from Zoso who is quite active on many other forums. I went with this car because it was enthusiast owned, he had history and receipts from his previous owner, and he had writeups and history on the car littered around the internet.

    I hope that I can take good care of his car and turn it into a reliable fun car. I loved autocross/rallycross back home when I lived in the D.C. area. I'm hoping to rekindle that love and dust-off my helmet and gloves to get back into the wallet breaking hobby.


    Current Plans
    Fix Rust
    Fix Rust
    Fix Rust
    BorgWarner EFR 7670 Turbo
    Spare Block on hand just in case the first one pops

    MODS LIST
    Motor:
    -1995 s50b30US (M3)
    as of August 25, 2010 it has approx 165k miles.
    Maintenance @ 150k included:

    - all of the rubber hoses were replaced (cooling, crank case ventilation, vacuum, fuel)
    -The valve spring top plates were replaced (known weak point of <10/95 S50US, valve collets pull through top spring plates).
    -thermostat, aluminum housing, and genuine BMW waterpump (only good one)
    Maintenance @159k miles
    -The VANOS was rebuilt with a seal kit from Beisan Systems.
    -Intake tract gaskets were replaced (6x intake runner gaskets, TB gasket).
    -Valve cover gasket.
    -Application specific oxygen sensor.

    -3.5” high flow maf (0-280-217-800) from 540i
    -Bosch/Ford 24# injectors
    -TRM (the racers market) chip
    -e34 Oilpan
    - Late model M20 starter (early model WILL NOT FIT)
    -80/88 Temperature Switch (61-31-8-361-787)
    -UHMW polyethylene motor/trans mounts (by Silence)

    Suspension/Brakes:
    -e36 M3 TC Klein dual adjustable front struts
    - Bilstein Sports rear struts
    -60mm I.D. x 150mm @ 450# front spring
    -2.5” I.D. x 5” @ 650# rear spring
    -e36 318ti rear trailing arm, calipers, hubs, spindles, rotors, pads
    -e32 735i 25mm master cylinder
    -e21 320i brake booster
    -e36 M3 Front Brakes
    -96+ e36 M3 front control arms
    -e30 m3 offset bushings
    -Suspension Techniques Sway Bars 22mm (f)/19mm (r)
    - aftermarket e30 m3 front endlinks
    AKG Rear Diff Bushing
    AKG Rear Sway Bar Reinforcement (Trailing Arm)
    AKG Front Sway Bar reinforcement
    PowerFlex Urethane Rear Subframe Bushing
    BMP Design Urethane trailing arm bushings
    E30tech Rear Camber/Toe adjustment
    Ireland Engineering SS Brake Lines
    Ground Control rear pirch

    Transmission/Driveline:
    -Getrag 240 transmission
    -Euro 323i Throughout Bearing (21-51-1-204-525)
    -Clutch/single mass flywheel from M20 (eta versions have single mass)
    -e36 M3 Dual Sheer Selector Rod (UUC motorwerks)
    - UUC ERK (raises shiftor pivot) - to be welded to aluminum plate and bolted from inside car
    -e36 5spd driveshaft with late model E30 center support bearing
    -4.1 LSD



    Wheels:
    16 x 8” ET23 Forged, Style 4 w/ Toyo t-1r, 245/35/16

    16 x 7” ET 20, Style 29, snows




    Quick Link
    Shake Down
    Brakes Do Not Work
    Brake Preview
    Front Brake Conversion
    Rear Brake Conversion
    Rear Sway
    Rear Subframe/Trailing arms
    S50 Swap

    Acknowledgements:


    learningcurve86 - for being a constant source of e30 and bmw knowledge. He has converted me to the dark-side

    E30SPDFRK - Also a vast well of BMW knowledge and overall great guy. Will have many questions for him in the future.

    SlapDash - For helping me out with my early model and coming by to help me put the subframe on. Many BBQ's in the near future!

    FredK - For helping me out in putting the subframe back on and for helping me source a motor swap. Many many questions for you later.




    Last edited by psyber_0ptix; 08-31-2011, 06:08 AM.
    Originally posted by FredK
    However, in your absence, I will likely sit in your seat buck naked while making racecar noises as if I were maxing your E30 out on the Mulsanne Straight while allowing the perforated vinyl to soak up my butt sweat (going 200 mph does that to you).

    My year in Germany
    Feedback

    #2
    Shake down

    The car needed timing maintenance done, I'm sorry if i repeat myself as I made a couple threads on the forum and decided to make a build thread.


    I pulled the plugs and the plug well 1,2 and 3 were flooded with a bit of oil enough to cover the bolt head of the plug.

    Compression numbers where cylinder 1 is most forward on the engine

    #1) 210 psi and holds

    #2) 200 psi but dropped to 195 psi and holds

    #3) 200 psi holds

    #4) 210 psi but dropped to 206 psi and holds


    engine was warmed up for a couple minutes (longer than 5, no more than 10) but was not at operational temperature. I have a check light and low on gas.

    Regarding timing maintenance, I'm wondering if the block is worth it, or just to spring for a used m42 if i can find one locally. motor has 209,000 miles. But there is an M50 swap lined up locally for less than M42 timing maintenance...might spring for that option









    Originally posted by FredK
    However, in your absence, I will likely sit in your seat buck naked while making racecar noises as if I were maxing your E30 out on the Mulsanne Straight while allowing the perforated vinyl to soak up my butt sweat (going 200 mph does that to you).

    My year in Germany
    Feedback

    Comment


      #3
      Brakes Do Not Work

      Fixed the rusted brake hardline. I have a feeling i'll be replacing a couple lines soon, POR15 and re-undercoat the car.

      Rusted line


      Have to disconnect it from the brake pressure regulator...what you don't see it?


      there it is (already disconnected)...took an adjustable wrench and an 11mm, cramped hand and patience


      Why my brakes didn't work


      from the rear end


      old line on top, brand new unbent line on bottom





      This would have been 300x easier if the subframe and trailing arms were dropped, as well as the motor pulled out. I have a feeling i'll be revisiting this to make sure it's not rubbing anywhere once i finalize my brake conversion and motor swap.
      Originally posted by FredK
      However, in your absence, I will likely sit in your seat buck naked while making racecar noises as if I were maxing your E30 out on the Mulsanne Straight while allowing the perforated vinyl to soak up my butt sweat (going 200 mph does that to you).

      My year in Germany
      Feedback

      Comment


        #4
        Brake Preview





        e36 m3 front brakes:

        Diameter - 315mm(12.4")
        Thickness - 28mm (1.1")

        e30 Stock front brakes:
        Diameter - 260mm (10.24")
        Thickness - 22mm (0.87")


        318ti being used for rears. I was going to reuse my trailing arms, but the cost of new bearings/spindles were twice as much as a set of used ti's i found locally.
        Originally posted by FredK
        However, in your absence, I will likely sit in your seat buck naked while making racecar noises as if I were maxing your E30 out on the Mulsanne Straight while allowing the perforated vinyl to soak up my butt sweat (going 200 mph does that to you).

        My year in Germany
        Feedback

        Comment


          #5
          Front Brake Conversion

          I was initially going to use Koni Yellow's in e36M3 Housings (housings are for sale btw) but the Koni's were backordered for a month. I stumbled across a set of TC Kline D/A struts.



          Before




          Out with the old, in with the used


          taking care of the sway reinforcement


          I'm too embarrassed to post my blobby flux-wire welding skills

          My ghetto camber kit, sourced some Grade 10.9 M12x1,75 30mm bolts









          Picked up a set of style 29's locally. Tires far too large.




          Also picked up a set of style 4's



          Daniel has been most helpful in helping me figure out tire sizes.
          Last edited by psyber_0ptix; 08-23-2011, 01:41 PM.
          Originally posted by FredK
          However, in your absence, I will likely sit in your seat buck naked while making racecar noises as if I were maxing your E30 out on the Mulsanne Straight while allowing the perforated vinyl to soak up my butt sweat (going 200 mph does that to you).

          My year in Germany
          Feedback

          Comment


            #6
            Rear Brake Conversion

            Time to remove the driver side rear spring


            ..and like magic

            "Who Needs Springs?" © Byron a.k.a E30SPDFRK, 2010


            encountered some problems on the passenger side though...





            Moving on....
            I was able to take the subframe off by myself, but more problems surfaced


            The driver side e-brake cable is very very stuck. I'm about to cut it and forget it


            Using FredK's methof of a 5/8" lag screw, The sleeve was successfully extracted on the driver side


            Both my subframe bolts are bent however...




            Right now, I'm waiting for some new subframe/trailing arm bushings to come in, then getting the toe/camber adjustment tabs welded onto the rear subframe. Ordered new subframe bolts and washers.
            Last edited by psyber_0ptix; 05-24-2010, 08:38 PM.
            Originally posted by FredK
            However, in your absence, I will likely sit in your seat buck naked while making racecar noises as if I were maxing your E30 out on the Mulsanne Straight while allowing the perforated vinyl to soak up my butt sweat (going 200 mph does that to you).

            My year in Germany
            Feedback

            Comment


              #7
              Keep us posted, and good luck!
              Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.

              Comment


                #8
                Good work, the m42 is a good motor, not so good on torque but it's got some spunk!
                Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.

                Originally posted by Wh33lhop
                VANOS: sometimes you just need to go full retard.

                Comment


                  #9
                  definitely gonna keep up with this thread, thumbs up for a local 318i owner.

                  its funny i had to do pretty much the same things to my 318i that you have listed in this thread when i first got it.
                  Strategic Alpine Command:...sig loading

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Coming along good Payam. Wish I had time to help!
                    Byron

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Byron, time is definitely ticking away!

                      Between working 40 hours, night class and waiting on parts. We have to move next weekend and this thing still doesn't roll. Fate is laughing at me pretty hard right now.

                      I'll be interested in your progress with your monster swap; lmk if you need a hand or want pics taken :D
                      Originally posted by FredK
                      However, in your absence, I will likely sit in your seat buck naked while making racecar noises as if I were maxing your E30 out on the Mulsanne Straight while allowing the perforated vinyl to soak up my butt sweat (going 200 mph does that to you).

                      My year in Germany
                      Feedback

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Rear Sway

                        New vs. Old




                        This was actually very difficult to mount, the holes in the mounts didn't want to line up for the bolt.


                        Bad shot, but does anyone know what this wire is for? It hangs in front of the sway bar but it's cut and taped off.
                        Originally posted by FredK
                        However, in your absence, I will likely sit in your seat buck naked while making racecar noises as if I were maxing your E30 out on the Mulsanne Straight while allowing the perforated vinyl to soak up my butt sweat (going 200 mph does that to you).

                        My year in Germany
                        Feedback

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Rear Subframe/Trailing arms


                          While I am waiting on new subframe bolts, I wanted to take care of the welding required for the rear subframe and trailing arm.

                          First things first...prep the pieces for bushings and weld

                          Pyro






                          With the bushing burning, the sleeve heated up enough to melt the outer "skin" of rubber within the trailing arm. It slid right out and I burned the rest of the rubber out of the arm.


                          Cleaning up the tabs a little bit to get it prepped for welding


                          This tab had to be cut off before the welding, picture was taken mid prep



                          Huge thanks to Tom and Jay at Wicked Innovation in West Kingston, RI. They allowed me to use their tools and facility to let me accomplish this. Here's a couple photo's of Tom@Wicked Innovation, jigged the camber/toe adjusters and TIG welding them on.













                          My Bushings came in a lunchbox!


                          Brake Lines also came in


                          After the welding, I used POR15 on the trailing arms and subframe. My girlfriend is pretty pissed I used the bathtub to clean the parts. We don't have a spigot to use outside at our apartment.


                          POR15 drying up on the trailing arms (today)


                          I POR15'ed the subframe yesterday so here it is waiting with new bushings. The upper 'caps' ont he subframe bushings (purple) need to be trimmed to accomodate the cam-bolts.
                          Originally posted by FredK
                          However, in your absence, I will likely sit in your seat buck naked while making racecar noises as if I were maxing your E30 out on the Mulsanne Straight while allowing the perforated vinyl to soak up my butt sweat (going 200 mph does that to you).

                          My year in Germany
                          Feedback

                          Comment


                            #14
                            I have no pictures to update with but with the help of FredK and SlapDash, the subframe, diff, and trailing arms went in within 30 minutes.

                            I had to replace a third brake hardline in the rear because of rot...but now they have all been replaced; new hard lines and SS lines.

                            Tomorrow morning i'll take a pic, and plan on bolting the rest of the suspension up. I will only have one ebrake as the driver side is stuck within the metal tube in the rear. It's not coming out or going back in. No idea how to address this.


                            I have to:
                            install rear struts
                            set rear coilover
                            bleed brakes
                            bolt up driveshaft
                            install axles
                            cross brace
                            install exhaust
                            install retaining washers for steering rack
                            replace front brake lines
                            bleed brakes

                            then this car runs/rolls!

                            I think i can handle most of that in a day.
                            Originally posted by FredK
                            However, in your absence, I will likely sit in your seat buck naked while making racecar noises as if I were maxing your E30 out on the Mulsanne Straight while allowing the perforated vinyl to soak up my butt sweat (going 200 mph does that to you).

                            My year in Germany
                            Feedback

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Nice work...but man I cringe when I see so much rust in important places etc.... argh!

                              good work!
                              Mtech1 v8 build thread - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=413205



                              OEM v8 manual chip or dme - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho....php?p=4938827

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