pulled the old motor out
new motor awaits
resurfaced/shaved/lightened flywheel
because i was using a 320i booster, i had to cut the pushrod which was m10 at the clevis...but the shaft is m12.
cut and beveled
threading
drilled the clevis out and tapped to 12mm (old on right, new on left)
shortened and all set!
Tom@WickedInnovation tigged the motor mount reinforcement plates, then the whole subframe got a slick coat of POR15
There was a bolt stuck in the frame that had snapped. Drilled it from the top and it backed itself out. Just chased the threads afterward and it was all gravy
flywheel and clutch mounted
car without a heart
ready to drop the motor in
I'm guiding and supporting the back end/trans while it's being lowered. Not subframes or trans crossmembers in place to aid in positioning. Once in place, the subframe/crossmembers were bolted from underneath and the engine lowered onto solid mounts
all set
I have to bolt the shifter up, driveshaft, get a new radiator and find a 506 or non-ews dme. but for now, i'm tired
I ordered a new center support bearing, circlip, and backing plate. I inadvertently got the early model CSB and it wont fit the chassis.
My radiator had a small crack in the endtank so i ordered an aluminum radiator, m/s50 rad hoses and will need to mount an expansion tank of some sort. Late model lower mounts are on their way
I am using an MZ3 shifter on m3/328 carrier and selector rod. It feels absolutely great. It is almost centered in the shifter cutout, but sits a bit more forward. It does not interfere with the chassis though, it gets close, but never touches so i'll live with it. The only problem is that the shifter/selector rod now sits right on the drive shaft.
new motor awaits
resurfaced/shaved/lightened flywheel
because i was using a 320i booster, i had to cut the pushrod which was m10 at the clevis...but the shaft is m12.
cut and beveled
threading
drilled the clevis out and tapped to 12mm (old on right, new on left)
shortened and all set!
Tom@WickedInnovation tigged the motor mount reinforcement plates, then the whole subframe got a slick coat of POR15
There was a bolt stuck in the frame that had snapped. Drilled it from the top and it backed itself out. Just chased the threads afterward and it was all gravy
flywheel and clutch mounted
car without a heart
ready to drop the motor in
I'm guiding and supporting the back end/trans while it's being lowered. Not subframes or trans crossmembers in place to aid in positioning. Once in place, the subframe/crossmembers were bolted from underneath and the engine lowered onto solid mounts
all set
I have to bolt the shifter up, driveshaft, get a new radiator and find a 506 or non-ews dme. but for now, i'm tired
I ordered a new center support bearing, circlip, and backing plate. I inadvertently got the early model CSB and it wont fit the chassis.
My radiator had a small crack in the endtank so i ordered an aluminum radiator, m/s50 rad hoses and will need to mount an expansion tank of some sort. Late model lower mounts are on their way
I am using an MZ3 shifter on m3/328 carrier and selector rod. It feels absolutely great. It is almost centered in the shifter cutout, but sits a bit more forward. It does not interfere with the chassis though, it gets close, but never touches so i'll live with it. The only problem is that the shifter/selector rod now sits right on the drive shaft.
Comment