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Psyber_0ptix's AutoX/DD 318i Build

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    #31
    pulled the old motor out


    new motor awaits










    resurfaced/shaved/lightened flywheel




    because i was using a 320i booster, i had to cut the pushrod which was m10 at the clevis...but the shaft is m12.

    cut and beveled


    threading


    drilled the clevis out and tapped to 12mm (old on right, new on left)


    shortened and all set!


    Tom@WickedInnovation tigged the motor mount reinforcement plates, then the whole subframe got a slick coat of POR15


    There was a bolt stuck in the frame that had snapped. Drilled it from the top and it backed itself out. Just chased the threads afterward and it was all gravy


    flywheel and clutch mounted




    car without a heart


    ready to drop the motor in












    I'm guiding and supporting the back end/trans while it's being lowered. Not subframes or trans crossmembers in place to aid in positioning. Once in place, the subframe/crossmembers were bolted from underneath and the engine lowered onto solid mounts






    all set









    I have to bolt the shifter up, driveshaft, get a new radiator and find a 506 or non-ews dme. but for now, i'm tired



    I ordered a new center support bearing, circlip, and backing plate. I inadvertently got the early model CSB and it wont fit the chassis.

    My radiator had a small crack in the endtank so i ordered an aluminum radiator, m/s50 rad hoses and will need to mount an expansion tank of some sort. Late model lower mounts are on their way

    I am using an MZ3 shifter on m3/328 carrier and selector rod. It feels absolutely great. It is almost centered in the shifter cutout, but sits a bit more forward. It does not interfere with the chassis though, it gets close, but never touches so i'll live with it. The only problem is that the shifter/selector rod now sits right on the drive shaft.
    Originally posted by FredK
    However, in your absence, I will likely sit in your seat buck naked while making racecar noises as if I were maxing your E30 out on the Mulsanne Straight while allowing the perforated vinyl to soak up my butt sweat (going 200 mph does that to you).

    My year in Germany
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      #32
      Just ordered:

      24 lb injectors
      Bimmerworld HFM intake boot
      540i 3.5" HFM
      TRM chip

      and UUC Effort Reducing Kit/DSSR to push the shifter's pivot up a little
      Originally posted by FredK
      However, in your absence, I will likely sit in your seat buck naked while making racecar noises as if I were maxing your E30 out on the Mulsanne Straight while allowing the perforated vinyl to soak up my butt sweat (going 200 mph does that to you).

      My year in Germany
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        #33


        high flow maf, boot, and intake manifold mounted. Also got the radiator in today. Still waiting on injectors...need to figure out how to secure the overflow tank, and find out which hardlines are fuel supply/return/evap.

        Exhaust needs to be welded, still waiting on shifter bits.

        Enthusiasm and motivation are a bit slim....just getting tired
        Originally posted by FredK
        However, in your absence, I will likely sit in your seat buck naked while making racecar noises as if I were maxing your E30 out on the Mulsanne Straight while allowing the perforated vinyl to soak up my butt sweat (going 200 mph does that to you).

        My year in Germany
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          #34
          good work.
          Strategic Alpine Command:...sig loading

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            #35
            Originally posted by unloadedak View Post
            not sure if i just missed it but what did you do for 5 lug rear? i have some 17x8 style 5s et20 and i don't want them poking out crazy if i go the e36/z3 route in the rear.. could you take some straight on shots of what the wheels look like stance wise? thanks

            correction: i did read past it lol. so you just got 318ti hubs/brakes and put them on your original trailing arms? or did you just use the whole ti setup? your rear doesn't look bad at all as in sticking out.
            Originally posted by unloadedak View Post
            so no fender rolling? what does the offset look like as well?













            it rubbed a tiny bit on an on ramp...but the coilover perch wasn't seated all the way until a big bump fixed that. I raised the car back up a bit and will roll the fenders a bit more. They were mildly rolled before but the lip was still protruding a bit.
            Originally posted by FredK
            However, in your absence, I will likely sit in your seat buck naked while making racecar noises as if I were maxing your E30 out on the Mulsanne Straight while allowing the perforated vinyl to soak up my butt sweat (going 200 mph does that to you).

            My year in Germany
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              #36
              just catching up on some other maintenance stuff while i'm waiting on the proper injectors to be sent.

              Replaced the driver front brake hardline and installed a braided line to caliper


              Lowered the rear diff and subframe a little to access the bushing
              Used a small hack saw to notch through the bushing sleeve in two places and slowly hammered the bushing out.




              Next to the AKG 75d rear diff mount


              Originally posted by FredK
              However, in your absence, I will likely sit in your seat buck naked while making racecar noises as if I were maxing your E30 out on the Mulsanne Straight while allowing the perforated vinyl to soak up my butt sweat (going 200 mph does that to you).

              My year in Germany
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                #37
                Hey, how did you get the relays to fit in the stock location? It seemed to me there was always some kind of interference there!

                Looks great.

                Originally posted by whysimon
                WTF is hello Kitty (I'm 28 with no kids and I don't have cable)

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                  #38
                  IIRC there are 4 relay slots on the stock plastics. I used the inner three and they fit just fine, the one closest to the booster wasn't even an option. The intake manifold is close, but the wires are tucked behind it (barely). Maybe the engine mounts I used sit differently?

                  I'm hoping to get the injectors by wednesday. I'll be sure to leave you a message shrieking like a school girl once it fires up an idles.....or crying like a school boy if it catches fire.
                  Originally posted by FredK
                  However, in your absence, I will likely sit in your seat buck naked while making racecar noises as if I were maxing your E30 out on the Mulsanne Straight while allowing the perforated vinyl to soak up my butt sweat (going 200 mph does that to you).

                  My year in Germany
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                    #39
                    I'm sure it'll fire up fine. Yeah, maybe the engine mounts you're using sit a bit differently. Did they fit fine with the AKG subframe reinforcement plates?

                    Originally posted by whysimon
                    WTF is hello Kitty (I'm 28 with no kids and I don't have cable)

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                      #40
                      Yea the "sandwich" plates are welded from the bottom. The reinforcement that "boxed" the area made it impossible to use a socket.


                      The tie rod boot made it difficult to access as well. The engine mount came with a threaded rod and two nuts. The best I could do was to use a wrench to hold the nut in place, but it didn't have enough space to actually tighten. I replaced the threaded rod/2 nut setup with a long suspension grade bolt...passed it from the bottom and easily secured the nut from the top.


                      (btw the entire subframe got a generous coat of POR15....if only i could dip the rest of the car in POR)
                      Originally posted by FredK
                      However, in your absence, I will likely sit in your seat buck naked while making racecar noises as if I were maxing your E30 out on the Mulsanne Straight while allowing the perforated vinyl to soak up my butt sweat (going 200 mph does that to you).

                      My year in Germany
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                        #41
                        Ah, ok that makes complete sense. Awesome. I should get a set of these too!

                        Originally posted by whysimon
                        WTF is hello Kitty (I'm 28 with no kids and I don't have cable)

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                          #42
                          yea they are actually pretty well made. You need to have the longest edge welded to the subframe first. Then hammer the plate down to conform to the contour of the rest of the mount. There are no instructions, but that was the only way to get the maximum amount of seam to weld.

                          It was awkward to fiddle around with a flat plate on such a complicated plate, but it made sense after it was done.

                          When is the new heart going in?
                          Originally posted by FredK
                          However, in your absence, I will likely sit in your seat buck naked while making racecar noises as if I were maxing your E30 out on the Mulsanne Straight while allowing the perforated vinyl to soak up my butt sweat (going 200 mph does that to you).

                          My year in Germany
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                            #43
                            wow that looks damn good. everyone says 235/245 wont fit, but even though you have shorter tires i think i should be fine fitment wise. thanks for the pics.

                            2003.5 Imolarot M3: daily
                            1995 Alpinweiß M3: hpde

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                              #44
                              Ah, I meant the engine mounts, I already have subframe reinforcements welded in. :D

                              I'm not sure on my own engine swap, but I'll be sure to document it and post some stuff in the Projects subforum.

                              Originally posted by whysimon
                              WTF is hello Kitty (I'm 28 with no kids and I don't have cable)

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                                #45
                                Originally posted by unloadedak View Post
                                wow that looks damn good. everyone says 235/245 wont fit, but even though you have shorter tires i think i should be fine fitment wise. thanks for the pics.
                                I really see no reason for it not to fit if you aren't running the car super low. I'm tempted to raise the car up a tiny bit more, but all that can be done after I get the car running. I really wish I could see how well a 245/40 would fit.

                                Originally posted by FredK View Post
                                Ah, I meant the engine mounts, I already have subframe reinforcements welded in. :D

                                I'm not sure on my own engine swap, but I'll be sure to document it and post some stuff in the Projects subforum.
                                Yea the mounts I used were made by silence on the forums. It's really nice but i still want to make a heatshield for the passenger side...just in case.

                                The one midpipe/downpipe that connects to the rear header needs to be modified as it interferes with the CAB. I half wish I went with the treehouse racing mounts which would probably alleviate this problem all together.
                                Originally posted by FredK
                                However, in your absence, I will likely sit in your seat buck naked while making racecar noises as if I were maxing your E30 out on the Mulsanne Straight while allowing the perforated vinyl to soak up my butt sweat (going 200 mph does that to you).

                                My year in Germany
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