that's gonna be a fuckin' cool car when it's all together man.
-
-
Transmission mounts came so I started working on modifying the stock subframe to work. I set the transmission upside down sitting at the angle it will sit in the car. Then after some measurements with an angle finder, I was able to make a tube to attach to one of the mounts. This will be welded to the stock cross member when finished.
Here you can see the cutout to be able to access the nut.
It's longer then needed at this point, but I made it long so I could trim it down. I need to get it back in the car before I can figure out exactly how long it needs to be. The other mounts I can't tell anything yet either.
Oh, and disregard all the grime. It will be cleaned before it goes into the car.Last edited by AndrewBird; 03-19-2016, 10:35 PM.Comment
-
-
*ahem*
V.S Motor M5 e34. Untilted engineOG RACECAROriginally posted by kendogg
Comment
-
And what does this have to do with my build?Comment
-
The engine in that pic, which I believe is an S38, is tilted straight up like your will be.Comment
-
Ah, got ya. Didn't catch that.Comment
-
So, a few years back I understeered into a curb in the rain. It bent the tierod and lower a-arm mount and slightly tweaked the frame. On an MGB, all of the suspension is attached to the front crossmember, so frame damage doesn't affect suspension geometry unless it is really bad. That being said, I've driven the car with this frame damage for years with no problems. Now is time to fix it.
Worst of it. It's pushed inward.
Inside the fenderwell.
Looks like the crossmember pushed back and in.
Got some wood dowels and put them in the mounting holes for the front crossmember.
Drivers side, nice and straight:
Passenger side, not so straight:
The front passenger side hole seems to be fine, but the rear is off ~5º based off a measurement with an angle finder. Front to back there seems to be no distortion. With a frame rail height of 4 inches and a bend of 5º, it means the bottom of the frame rail moved over less then 3/8". It basically went from being square shaped to trapezoidal shaped. I am just going to fix it myself with a bottle jack and a torch like this guy did:
Then weld in some reinforcement plates. Shouldn't be hard and I think will be the best fix for the situation.Last edited by AndrewBird; 03-19-2016, 10:41 PM.Comment
-
Got quite a bit done tonight. The front radiator panel was all bent up from a previous accident and botched fix job. So out it came to be replaced with a new one!
You can see the damage at the front edge.
All torn apart.
All back together.
Nothing is welded yet, but everything is fitted and lining up correctly.
Also worked on getting the frame rail back to where it should be. I got it within 1-2º of straight, but I'm out of gas for the torch, so couldn't apply heat to any of it. Once I get gas, I'll be able to move things around a lot better.Last edited by AndrewBird; 03-19-2016, 10:42 PM.Comment
-
Got the master cylinder all cleaned and rebuilt:
Last edited by AndrewBird; 03-19-2016, 10:42 PM.Comment
-
-
What did you cut the spot welds with?
I hope you have some zinc weld primer to put on there, then seam seal
Have fun thats some dirty workWe're out there in here.
Comment
-
Used a spot weld cutter, duh. ;) Got it from harbor freight. Worked great.
For reference, that panel has been sitting bare for over 2 years and as you can see, has developed no rust (except for the front patch, it had something spilled on it). It is a very dry climate here, so surface rust isn't a big issue.
Oh, and no seam sealer will be used. There was none stock and it is staying that way. The insides of the wheel wells and the under side of the body will be getting undercoating though. The interior is going to get bedliner. Might go with that everywhere else instead of undercoating as well, but we will see.Comment
-
This is so cool.Slicktop City!Comment
Comment