Andrew's 1989 325i Project

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  • george graves
    replied
    Why re-gasket the motor? Is it really leaking?

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  • 5Toes
    replied
    Found an engine! Thank you so much BMWm42.

    So list of things to order so far:

    - Upper gasket/head gasket set
    - Lower Gasket Set
    - Timing Belt Kit
    - I am going to reuse my water pump, it has only about 2000 miles, should be fine. Will buy a new gasket for it though and clean it up
    - Distributor Cap (plug wires I will purchase later, easy to do with engine in car)
    - Cap
    - Intake Boot
    - Random Seals/Gaskets
    - Purple Power, Brake Cleaner, Etc.
    - Might as well get new motor mounts. Any OEM+ stuff that will work (M5 or something..)

    Anything else you guys can think of? This list is nowhere near complete, however I would love some input

    Looking at about a $400 parts order right now

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  • 5Toes
    replied
    Originally posted by jlevie
    The slightly tighter valve setting isn't likely to be the cause of the rough idle. I use 0.006 for the intakes and 0.008 for the exhausts on my Spec E30 and it doesn't affect idle. The rough idle is more likely to be the result of intake leaks. A smoke test of the intake is the way to find the leaks.
    From Jlevie... very knowledgeable man on M20's

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  • 5Toes
    replied
    MR 325, I had read by other E30 drivers that the tighter spec I used worked great and they have gone 15,000 miles no problems. Their explanation, that the shorter the distance the less force is put on the rocker makes sense.

    Either way, doesnt matter cause I found myself an engine!

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  • MKorodini
    replied
    Just read you entire thread. Kudos to you man! I enjoyed all the ups and downs. Good luck with the e30!

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  • MR 325
    replied
    That's too tight on the valves, readjust them to the correct spec.

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  • 5Toes
    replied
    Well why pull an engine to do new rods, when I can prep a new engine to be dropped in? Besides... me rebuilding an engine would be *bad*

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  • CW325
    replied
    Seems like you just want an excuse for an engine swap!

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  • 5Toes
    replied
    We adjusted the valves together back in June or May. Reading on here I figured that last night when the noise got super loud that I had broke a rocker, though today when examining them all I saw zero cracks. I was adjusting the valves just to make sure that the noise is from the bottom end. I have seen videos on youtube of people confusing rod knock with a loose rocker

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  • Jparkr
    replied
    I adjusted your valves for you what, 3 months ago? The noise probably got louder because you screwed it all up.

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  • 5Toes
    replied
    Well adjusted the valves today. I took one mans advice on bimmerforums and did them to .008 inches. Nice and quiet now. Lastnight my engine knock got atrocious...

    SO new m20b25 time!!!!
    Last edited by 5Toes; 03-06-2012, 05:37 PM. Reason: spelling

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  • 5Toes
    replied
    figured out the no start issue today. it is definitely the fpr... clamped the fuel line halfway and it started right up

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  • 5Toes
    replied
    Ugh, I need to think about this hard

    So driver side control arm is off... passenger side is almost there. The 22mm bolt I can get my wrench on, but no room to turn it. SO I gotta borrow a 22mm socket from a friend or autozone or something

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  • MattAvino
    replied
    I seriously considered those parts from FCP groton. I came to my senses and went with blunttech instead. I'm very happy I made that decision.

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  • KenC
    replied
    I don't trust the ball joints to last... the boots are crap too. But if you're planning on replacing them in a year or so, go ahead.

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