The complete repair, rebuild, repaint, and v8 swap of my early model sedan
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Spent the last 3 days on rev and doing nothing but reading this thread.. So much win.. I'm sure I'll have tons of questions for you as I begin to gather info/parts for my m6x swap -
Well thanks Jgood for sharing this experience as I'm looking up deals on parts for my M62 swap..I was looking a Mishimoto rad...ah well I guess Im going to go elsewhere..Yeah, I just began to refer to them as 'you', as a company, in my responses. Because every week during this past month, my case changes hands. First it was Patrick, then Phomma, then Rachel, then John, then Sarah. To further complicate things, the 'Mishimoto' user name on r3v is used by more then one of them, just as with the other forums.Leave a comment:
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I would use the in-tank pump as a feed to a catchtank and then the primary external pump drawing from the catchtank.Leave a comment:
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Some rather interesting things I've noticed since getting the in tank pump working:
-The powerband no longer falls off after 6k. It pulls hard to the 6800 RPM redline.
-MPG when cruising at 65mph on the highway is up to 24-25, previously 22-23.
-The fuel pump is quite. As it should be.
Apparently cavitation can really mess shit up...Leave a comment:
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Turned out to be my in tank pump. Bench tested it with 12v, it was dead. Banged on it with a screwdriver, and it came back to life. It wasn't the nice machine buzz I was hoping for, more of a scraping sound, but it was pumping none the less. Threw it back in the car, and it runs perfect. Pressure is rock steady, all of the noise the external pump was making is gone. I guess that was the sound of cavitation that my dumb ass didn't recognize. Expensive lesson.
Those stupid pumps are $250, so I think I'm going to look into modding the housing to fit some sort of affordable aftermarket pump. At that point I might even ditch the external pump. Or keep it for redundancy... Does anyone know how to determine total system pressure of two inline pumps? And is it possible to overload the stock FPR with too much flow?Leave a comment:
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I think it was gravity feeding the engine somehow. I had the rear jacked way up in the air, and a full tank of gas. I tried it again this morning with the car on the ground and it died about 2 seconds after pulling the fuse.Leave a comment:
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If the engine still runs with the fuse pulled, you have a wiring fault in the fuel pump wiring. That may also explain why you've been killing pumps.Leave a comment:
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Looks like I killed yet another fuel pump. Not sure what's going on. This one lasted 4 months, about 5k miles, it was a brand new stock 85 325e Bosch pump. My car started cutting out above 5k or so, same as last time. So I came home, put the pressure gauge on it, and it was pulsing like crazy around 45 psi at idle. Spec is 51. I could feel the pulses and hear them as well, the pump almost sounds like its cavitating or something.
I pulled fuse 11 to kill the pumps with the engine running to drain fuel pressure so I could unhook my gauge, and it wouldn't drop below 10psi, although the engine sputtered a bit. It just kept running at 10psi though without dropping below that. Not sure how that's even possible, unless for some reason my in-tank pump is still getting 12v with fuse 11 pulled.
I'm thinking about just going with a TRE 255 pump. They sell a kit with 1/2" inlet and 5/16" outlet, so it would be a bolt-on quick fix. I thought the 325e pump should be sufficient, it's lph rating isn't much less then the 540i pump, and it has an intake feed pump, which bumps the overall system capability up a bit.Leave a comment:
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Thanks, did you go for 80A or 95A?Yeah, they keep the engine in place pretty well and didn't add any vibrations. But the stock mounts are pretty solid and stiff to begin with. In my experience, trans mounts have a much bigger impact on NVH. I went from stock trans mounts to e21 mounts with metal cups, and noticed a bit more vibration, mostly at around 2200 RPM's, along with much more precise shifting. Still tolerable though, nothing like those solid UHMW mounts.Leave a comment:
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Yeah, they keep the engine in place pretty well and didn't add any vibrations. But the stock mounts are pretty solid and stiff to begin with. In my experience, trans mounts have a much bigger impact on NVH. I went from stock trans mounts to e21 mounts with metal cups, and noticed a bit more vibration, mostly at around 2200 RPM's, along with much more precise shifting. Still tolerable though, nothing like those solid UHMW mounts.Leave a comment:
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Yeah, I just began to refer to them as 'you', as a company, in my responses. Because every week during this past month, my case changes hands. First it was Patrick, then Phomma, then Rachel, then John, then Sarah. To further complicate things, the 'Mishimoto' user name on r3v is used by more then one of them, just as with the other forums.To be fair, the person typing that response is probably not the person who authorizes refunds. He is probably being told by his superior that "it's just some guy on one forum complaining... What can he do?". To him, it probably IS impossible to issue a refund.
That doesn't make it any better off course, but it's the short sited decision making that can happen in any business. Clearly, it's getting spread around, and is having an effect on their sales (however small a percentage the r3v audience is).
And frankly, now the damage is done. I have a mishimoto radiator in my e30, and am now nervous about how long it will last. I'm embarking on an m30 swap on my girlfriends e30, and after reading this, won't be buying a mishimoto radiator for her car (as I originally intended). And I certainly will no longer recommend them to other people.
Even if they do refund the money eventually, it's too late. It shouldn't have gone on this long. Someone in that company made a terrible judgment call, and it is unfortunately going to cost the company their reputation.Leave a comment:

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