The complete repair, rebuild, repaint, and v8 swap of my early model sedan

[JGood]

Be careful Justin, there are a lot of garbage 6 speeds out there being advertised as good operable units. Also with no internal parts available anywhere it basically becomes a paperweight if its bad.

What are the common failure modes? Anything easy to check while they are off the car? I did read that there's no parts available, that sucks!

e34 and e39 g420's are the same, correct? So I can use my e39 UUC 540i flywheel with an e39 clutch/PP on either a e34 or e39 trans?

[dirty30]

Be careful Justin, there are a lot of garbage 6 speeds out there being advertised as good operable units. Also with no internal parts available anywhere it basically becomes a paperweight if its bad.

[JGood]

now you're talking! It's about time you wised up!!!

How do you plan to source a driveshaft?

I'd just have a local shop do it. A friend had one done for $100 so it's just sourcing the two halves that's a PITA haha

[Garageaholic]

now you're talking! It's about time you wised up!!!

How do you plan to source a driveshaft?

[JGood]

Thanks guys!

Is the throttle cable the stock E30 one?

Nope, e34 540i.



So, I'm starting to consider going the 6 speed route. I'd have lower highway RPM's, even if I switched back to the 3.25 diff I originally used, which would also give me better acceleration then the 2.93 I'm currently using. Not to mention, I could use a stock e39 540i clutch kit with my UUC flywheel, which should be superior to my aftermarket m52 clutch kit in every way.

Now I just need to find a reasonably priced trans locally.

[1owNslo]

so ive been reading this whole thread over night at work and all i can say is wow... im not much into V8 e30 but man lemme tell you... that is the sickest car ive ever seen. the amount of work you put in, the detail, the learning curve... everything is awesome. im located in northern VA hit me up on here next time you are down. id love to see the car. Im about to start tearing my car apart too and do a whole resto on it. my profile has some pics but not all that great. anyway.... keep up the good work... this was an awesome build to read.

[BMWSauber]

I'm a little late to this thread, but after spending the last couple days reading over this thread I am just flabbergasted at what you have done with this car. Just absolutely amazing!

By the way, I am new to this forum. First post haha!

[kristov]

Is the throttle cable the stock E30 one?

[JGood]

Any pics of the blown filters?

I have never seen a blown oil filter.

They weren't literally "blown". They were getting pinhole leaks. So small that they'd only leak with the car running, when they were under pressure, and the hole wasn't even visible.

[kristov]

Any pics of the blown filters?

I have never seen a blown oil filter.

[JGood]

incredible effort here. no A/C plans ever I take it?

Nah, the entire system is removed, even under the dash. I've driven it for 13 years without A/C, I'm used to it. It would be nice, but not worth the added effort, weight, space consumed, and expense.

[bradnic]

incredible effort here. no A/C plans ever I take it?

[obrian]

You would think the oil system would be simple and problem free, one thing after another when you push the limits.

[JGood]

I blew out another oil filter, even with that box that I built covering the filters. That was it, I had enough.

So i installed the factory m60 oil filter housing, remotely, with AN hoses/fittings. This should solve my problems. It's a hell of a tight fit, between the valance, fog light, tire, frame rail, fender, wheel housing, etc... I have about 1/2" of clearance in any direction. It took me about 15 hours to do all of this.




Had some 10 AN bungs brazed onto factory metal lines that I cut down:








Clearance with the wheel turned (had to trim the corner of the housing off):




Clearance with the wheel straight:




Road clearance:




That black hose is just the filter removal drain. When you start removing the cap, the filter lifts up, and a push-button valve at the bottom is opened, draining the oil back to the pan so it doesn't spill everywhere. I haven't tested it yet, it's all gravity based, and I don't have much of an incline between the filter housing and the pan. We'll see. If it doesn't drain properly I'll just put a ball valve at the end and open that while I'm draining my oil pan, to drain the housing when changing oil. In addition, that's why I'm not terribly concerned about the ground clearance. It serves no real purpose other then not making a mess when changing oil.

[King Mufasa]

very good read

http://www.oilcoolers.com/article_oil_cooler_woes.asp