LS1 / T56 DD e28 BMW Build

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  • jakeb
    replied
    thanks!

    Stock GM wiring just slimmed down a bit. The GM stuff is VERY programmable with HP tuners. Started digging into the harness last night actually.

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  • LuckyHenriksen
    replied
    Love this project. What are you planning as far as wiring and management? I hope to undertake this type swap eventually

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  • jakeb
    replied
    Reminds me I need to get a hotel booked!

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  • blunttech
    replied
    Looking good Jake. Im collecting e12 parts. Im going to fill the trunk and bring them to Michigan on the way to Tedfest

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  • 87e30
    replied
    This is one of my dream builds, nice to see it happening!

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  • jakeb
    replied
    I already retreaded the sensor so I am good to go.

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  • garretvs
    replied
    Originally posted by jakeb
    I wish that adapter from JTR would just work...but that is for the old style GM engines. It goes from m14 to 1/2 NPT I believe.
    You're doing good work on your swap -- just go for the drill & tap routine. We did ours in a couple minutes with a hand drill. We had to buy a 12.5mm drill and M14x1.5 tap; cost us about $25.

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  • jakeb
    replied
    I wish that adapter from JTR would just work...but that is for the old style GM engines. It goes from m14 to 1/2 NPT I believe.

    Leave a comment:


  • Teaguer
    replied
    Originally posted by garretvs
    Just for those who are needing to put the GM sensor into the RH cylinder head, and don't have access to a lathe. It is no biggie to re-tap the M12 to M14 ~~ drill out the M12 with a 12.5mm tap drill & re-tap M14x1.5 (you need an M14 tap for the tie rod ends, anyway). Just have a helper hold a vacuum by the tap drill & tap to suck the chips out. Note that you are only drilling the M12 threads and .5mm "new" material. Piece of cake.
    There's also this piece available that JTR offers:

    Using the BMW water temperature sending unit in the Chevrolet engine will make the BMW water temperature gauge read accurately. The BMW water temperature sending unit has a 14mm x 1.5 thread. Stealth Conversions has a brass adapter (shown above) that accepts the BMW water temperature sending unit, and has a 3/8 pipe th


    $22 shipped. No drilling, no tapping and no lathe. :D

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  • garretvs
    replied
    Just for those who are needing to put the GM sensor into the RH cylinder head, and don't have access to a lathe. It is no biggie to re-tap the M12 to M14 ~~ drill out the M12 with a 12.5mm tap drill & re-tap M14x1.5 (you need an M14 tap for the tie rod ends, anyway). Just have a helper hold a vacuum by the tap drill & tap to suck the chips out. Note that you are only drilling the M12 threads and .5mm "new" material. Piece of cake.

    Leave a comment:


  • jakeb
    replied
    It's coooooollllldddd here in Michigan but got a little done today.

    Dropped the trans off to be checked over as I knew it had a problem with the reverse syncro. I also wanted to upgrade a few things in it. Well when the shop got it apart there was a bit more wrong than I was expecting. 5/6 gear was bad, reverse gear is bad, needs syncros throughout, getting brass shift pads, steel 3-4 shift fork. It should be a bit more stout and handle up to 600hp. Pretty big chunk of change but it will be good to go now.

    Lots of parts have been rolling in. thanks blunttech
    control arms, wheel bearings, brakes, etc etc etc

    Jags that run diff flange and brake rotors
    [img]http://theguestroom.net/e28/IMG_3221%20%28Small%29.JPG[/img
    rebuilt CV axles



    Got one of the bigger batches of coated parts.







    Reinforced front sway bar mount location


    One of the things to work out was the gauge temp sensor. THE GM head is m12x1.5 and the e28 sensor is m14x1.5. So I had a buddy turn it down on his lathe and re-thread it. I really didn't want to drill out the head...sensor is $6 no big deal if it is messed up.



    Added the Ireland rear subframe adjusters, subframe can go to the coater now.


    Pulled the engine wiring harness off to start slimming it down for a standalone.

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  • MR 325
    replied
    Originally posted by jakeb
    There is no cut out of the rad support....that is how the e28 are from the factory.
    Here is a picture of the plastic that covers it.
    Well, don't I look stupid! :)

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  • red_e30
    replied
    nice cant wait till i get funds to do something like this
    sub'd keep up the good work

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  • Unearth078
    replied
    hang onto those e28 ls1 jigs... glad i kept my e28 around... its in wonderful condition but nothing but a us spec e28.

    Teach me the wiring teacher!

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  • jakeb
    replied
    Just put in a BIG order new new parts from blunt. Its going to be pretty sweet with so many new parts on this thing. it will be nearly a new car when it's done. Pretty excited to see a pile of parts start rolling in.

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