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Dirty Baja E30

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    braaaap braaaaap.


    1989 Coupe build thread: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=312012
    IG: @mitchlikesbikes

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      Bought a new car:


      Ready to begin again:


      Time to plasma out the shock towers. Reminds me of the movie Aliens:





      Testing fitment:




      Turns out an extended eyelet won't fit after all. We have two options. Option A is to weld a tube onto the place where the old shocks mount, then tabs off that tube. Option B is to weld the tab diagonally directly onto the old shock mount location.

      Option A requires more work and won't be as strong, but allows us a lot more clearance and fitment is easier. It also lines up the shock better so there's no misalignment:




      Option B will be much stronger and requires no special reinforcement. However it is not as flexible and that will make fitment more difficult:




      I think we're going with Option A because it gives us more leeway if we fuck up a measurement, and more shock clearance is a good thing even if we have to add more reinforcement.
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        You lucky SOB The BRZ is one of my favorite cars. I want one so bad...


        1989 325is l 1984 euro 320i l 1970 2002 Racecar
        1991 318i 4dr slick top


        Euro spec 320i/Alpina B6 3.5 project(the never ending saga)
        Vintage race car revival (2002 content)
        Mtech 2 turbo restoration
        Brilliantrot slick top "build"

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          Originally posted by ThatOneEuroE30 View Post
          You lucky SOB The BRZ is one of my favorite cars. I want one so bad...
          It's the only new car I've wanted in a long time. It reminds me a lot of the e30 because of its weight savings, except its better in every way. :D

          Maybe in 20 years I'll turn the brz into an offroader
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            I know if I got one it would be modified beyond the warranty way to quickly.
            Do you imagine you will run into ground clearance issues mounting it this way, its hard to tell in the photos.

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              Originally posted by TheTacoMan View Post
              I know if I got one it would be modified beyond the warranty way to quickly.
              Do you imagine you will run into ground clearance issues mounting it this way, its hard to tell in the photos.
              There won't be any ground clearance issues. It's still flat with the original bolt at full droop so it's actually higher than the original bolt when compressed. I'll get better photos with tires on and all once we weld it in.
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                I just had a headslapper moment when I realized there was a much much easier way to extend the trailing arms shock mount while simultaneously reinfocing it:



                I could have just used a single peice of rectangular tubing and cut the tops and bottoms of it off to form two tabs on the end, and welded it to the original shock location and the front. F#$K I wish I had done that.
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                  yeah but what about the CV shaft that goes there?
                  1991 325i - "Scambles" The Daily Driven lightly modded.
                  1988 Mazda RX-7 TII "Mako" The Free Dorito
                  bacon by Jared Laabs, on Flickr

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                    Originally posted by AwakenNoMore View Post
                    yeah but what about the CV shaft that goes there?
                    Measured today with some spare tubing. It's actually just below it by a few mm at full cv droop. Oh well, next time. Went with Option A, because the welding and fitment will be easier... I used a 12mm bolt to hold the tube in place before welding.

                    Coilovers fully installed and functional on Monday :)
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                      Too hot to get anything done. But at least the diff is resting on its own mounts now.

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                        Some tiny amount of work







                        Down and up:

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                            Originally posted by JCarp90 View Post

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                              Is there anyone out there who can do me a huge favor, and measure the distance between the top-rear of the subframe and the bottom of the trunk floor?



                              Basically the distance from the bolt hole to the the trunk floor, right behind the frame. It should be somewhere around 2" with stock bushings.

                              I cut out my trunk floor so I can't re-measure it, but I'm pretty sure it was just over 2 inches.

                              Thanks!
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                                Parked an e30 on the lift before leaving the shop. Can give you measurements in the morning sometime.
                                john@m20guru.com
                                Links:
                                Transaction feedback: Here, here and here. Thanks :D

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