Dirty Baja E30

[epiphy]

If you decide to use #4 in your diagram above you need a solid slug in the tube or something of that nature. You don't want to have the hollow tube with the bolt going through it. It could allow the tube to collapse. If you wanted to use it I would do it like the flattened bar in #2

Agreed. Although it's worth mentioning that the tube I was going to use had 3/16" walls, which is the offroad industry standard size for shock mount tabs. It probably wouldn't have been an issue.

I'm going with the flattened tube design. But I don't have a press, so instead I cut a slot in the tube and welded a tab into the slot. Same effect as flattened tube.

[epiphy]

"Normally Garaged" is legal-speak for "normally parked" or "normally stored." It is to say that you can't do maintenance on someone ELSE'S car at your residence- only cars that belong to the resident and are parked there on a nearly-daily basis. They can't specify cars "owned" by the resident due to leases, rentals, company cars, etc.

It does not have to be a car that is parked in your actual/physical garage, per se (though some HOAs actually require that ALL vehicles are garaged every night). It also does not mean that the maintenance is to be performed in the garage space.

That language in the document is actually fairly tight and better-written than many that I have read. The only room for wiggling into being allowed to do work on a car is "similar minor maintenance" as that is somewhat subject to interpretation. I would try to use the BMW owner's manual to help your case, as it lays out what constitutes required/scheduled maintenance- belts, brakes, bushings, fluids, tires, shocks/struts, etc. You'd be hard-pressed to do any welding or fabrication or a true suspension overhaul under the HOA language, but you may be able to squeak by with some of that stuff under the guise of "maintenance."

Thanks. The normally garaged part meaning residents cars makes perfect sense now. My legaleez could use some work.

I've decided not to push my limits with these people. I found a solution... wheeling the car to my moms house and working on it there :) Angled driveway, but I'll figure it out.

[erb326]

NEED UPDATES :hitler:

[Bimmer_man]

I think I just about finished up the subframe and trailing arms. Keep in mind these design decisions were based entirely on what scrap I had laying around

The only thing that is left to do is to weld a bar on the back of the trailing arm, so that the rear shock bolt is supported from both sides of the shock. I may tap the 12mm hole to 5/8" because the shocks I'm going to use are designed for standard. Depends on what we can fit back there I guess.







Looks like a ekranoplan


I figure if I tie in the diff bolts, the center area of the subframe will be less prone to flexing. I added some extra metal between both sides anyway


Not the prettiest welds, but they'll do


I figured while I'm at it, add some metal to the cups. Again, pretty horrible welds...


These welds aren't so bad







And now all together (minus the bar that replaces the bolts)...










Here's the 12mm chromoly bar which inserts into where the bolts used to go


I bought these 12mm shaft collars at ace hardware


This is why I left that side open on the subframe, so I could fit this shaft collar over the end, to keep it from moving around while driving

HOLY SWEET JESUS!!!!!! that is so epic man. Those welds are so nice man. You should see about turning what you did into a reinforcement kit er something.

[epiphy]

Hello everyone.

Just wanted to let you know, she's not dead and buried yet :).

Due to some lucky financial decisions lately, I will probably be renting a garage in the next month or so, so I can finish this project!

Unfortunately some of the metal parts I made got a bit rusty over the last few months, so there's a bit more work that needs to be done. But I did manage to get primer and paint on the rear subframe and trailing arm assembly, so those are fine.

And this is what I have to say about my HOA: :finger: :finger: :finger: :finger: :finger: :finger: :finger: :finger: :finger: :finger: :finger: :finger: :finger: :finger: :finger: :finger: :finger: :finger: :finger: :finger: :finger: :finger: :finger: :finger: :finger: :finger: :finger: :finger: :finger: :finger: :finger: :finger: :finger: :finger: :finger: :finger: :finger: :finger: :finger: :finger: :finger: :finger: :finger: :finger: :finger: :finger: :finger: :finger: :finger: :finger: :finger: :finger: :finger: :finger:


To be continued....

[ikonwun]

Need up dates!!!

[n3rdy30]

^ x2, UPDATES DAMNIT!

[epiphy]

Time for an update.





It's in its new home! Real work begins again next weekend. Hooray

[epiphy]

First order of business: cut out the spring area and the diff frame to make more clearance for my newly welded support on the trailing arms.



I will also be replicating Vorshlag's dual ear diff mount setup. I already got a big fat e30 325i diff and e36 diff cover and sensor ring.


Here's Vorshlag's custom setup I will be replicating:


Lots of cutting next weekend.

[JGee]

I wonder if its possible to open up those frame rails and run some tubing the length of the car. Then tie it all together with a cage. ;D


JH

[JCarp90]

Dude.


Tits.

[epiphy]

I wonder if its possible to open up those frame rails and run some tubing the length of the car. Then tie it all together with a cage. ;D


JH

You won't be unhappy with what I have planned. I found out that a 1.75"-2" box tube will fit perfectly along the inside of the side skirt, between the fuel tank and footwells and the side skirt area. I may even use those bars to support a big scrape plate.

[Dj Buttchug]

yes

[einhander]

This may be the coolest E30 on the forum.

Actually, it is the coolest.

[Cabriolet]

really nice build. keep up the work!