Vivek's Vert.

[Vivek]

Well damn, there seems to be no easy way to get those on. I won't drive the car tomorrow and I'll call you in the afternoon to clear some things up.

Does anyone have any tips on how to get those on? All I need to do is take the top hat/black strut mount off. I don't really want to have to drop the entire housing for this because well...it's a major fucking pain to do.

[eLKuRLy]

Well...I didn't install either of them. They fit fine without the metal ring, and the white plastic piece fit really crappily around the strut insert so I didn't put it on. It would be pretty easy to put it on later if someone confirms that it's important.

No pics yet (too lazy right now) but I got the coilovers on front and rear, put on AKG CABs, and an eknight cross brace. I have to say that I literally noticed zero extra vibration or harshness in the steering wheel or otherwise after installing race hardness control arm bushings. I need to upgrade my sway bar end links, I haven't decided whether to go with dodge stratus ones (bolts the sway bar down right by the control arm) or IE adjustable ones. I think the dodge ones may be a bit more effective, but may not allow for enough body roll, which could lead to understeer. Is that logic correct?

These are the dodge links for reference:

so what model dodge links are you guys talking about? Searched for alternative for end links other than adjustables. Did not know these worked.
TIA
carlos

[Vivek]

1999 (i believe anything from 1995-2006) Dodge Stratus.

[eLKuRLy]

1999 (i believe anything from 1995-2006) Dodge Stratus.

thanks!

[Vivek]

If you find a place to get the DIRT cheap, let me know. To an extent I care more about price than quality for these since I don't know if I'll keep them or end up getting IE's. One place had $25 shipped for the pair which I may use.

[Vivek]

Got an m50 for next to nothing last night.

[Balleristic31]

Got an m50 for next to nothing last night.

No turbo? :( lame

[Vivek]

I'll have to think about it. I'll see what that turbo kit prices are like and what people think of it when it's on the market. If I so desired, I could do this swap for damn near 500 bucks. I need a head, alternator, usual swap parts, and a few other little things. Then just drop it in with an e36 325i drive shaft and call it a day. It's all about how much I want to do to this bottom end since i can't compression test it with no head on. If I simply slap on the necessary parts that I need, the most expensive thing would probably be the clutch and flywheel.

[Vivek]

m50:

Cylinders look good:

Installed these rings, bump stops, and the bump stop vents in the last hour:


Ride height until I get new wheels and tires. Rears are all the way down, fronts are about as low as I can go and still have travel. I need camber plates :(


And to expel any thoughts of reverse rake:
Front:

Rear:

[325ix]

You shoulda saved up for two more weeks and had your housings shortened.

[lambo]

You shoulda saved up for two more weeks and had your housings shortened.

Yeah....that's like the same height I'm at and I'm spun all the way up...

[Vivek]

It's not simply shortened housings, I'd also need shortened Konis which are also more expensive. With 17x7.5 et-2 I doubt I'll be able to run any lower any way. And camber plates will be about another inch less stack height, and I'll probably get them eventually.

[Cabriolet]

LBV thats a good amount of low. it looks better like it is.

[Vivek]

Installing today/tomorrow: IE TABs, Condor solid Subframe mounts and Diff mount.
Doesn't look like much was done, but all that's holding the subframe/diff/TA's on now is the diff mount and the two nuts on the subframe, that I already broke free so they're ready to come off. I just didn't want to do it today because it'd be sitting on a jack and I wouldn't be able to close the garage door.

[Vivek]

Got the TAB's pulled out, just need to put the new ones in. New subframe is ready to go in. If all goes well, it should be good to go by tomorrow afternoon.