5Toes 5er

[LJ851]

^ It's the rusted hood causing all your problems.

[not5toes]

It really isnt.. I am looking for some solid help. Not bullshit, not games, not trolling.

That said, I did get the intake manifold off in 45 minutes without breaking anything out in the cold ahaha

[Ray Smoodiver]

You know this is an E30 forum right?

[F34R]

the starter IS drawing current. It seems that the road vibrations contribute to the issue.

You do know that the starter has a relay to open and close when turning over? Once you stop cranking the relay closes and cuts off the power. The starter is not drawing anything, if it was it would turn the engine over via the flywheel. This is proven through testing a starter removed from a car. Give it direct power and it will kick out and function to turn the flywheel. That is the purpose of the relay. You would have a burnt out solenoid if it was turning over all the time.

I notice you went and tested/cleaned the power block in the bay like I told you to on FB. But did you test the power wire from the block to the starter 12v start stud? Also test your alternator while running for correct readings to charge the battery and operate the car while in use.

[Pantless Spency]

You know this is an E30 forum right?

You know we have an e34 dedicated sub forum right? ;)

[not5toes]

You do know that the starter has a relay to open and close when turning over? Once you stop cranking the relay closes and cuts off the power. The starter is not drawing anything, if it was it would turn the engine over via the flywheel. This is proven through testing a starter removed from a car. Give it direct power and it will kick out and function to turn the flywheel. That is the purpose of the relay. You would have a burnt out solenoid if it was turning over all the time.

I notice you went and tested/cleaned the power block in the bay like I told you to on FB. But did you test the power wire from the block to the starter 12v start stud? Also test your alternator while running for correct readings to charge the battery and operate the car while in use.

Brandon, I pulled the intake manifold but it got dark - I am planning on hooking the battery back up tomorrow and checking all that out. Time for some maintenance I have been sorta putting off. I am gonna remove the alternator and clean it too.

Tomorrow I plan on:

Checking for power when I turn the key at the starter. The starter may be acting up.

Just so I make sure I am doing it right, I should place the + probe on the positive terminal in the engine bay, and then ground it out on the starter, engine, etc.?

[Ray Smoodiver]

You know we have an e34 dedicated sub forum right? ;)

You shut up with your logic and junk :p

[not5toes]

I cant wait for sunlight tomorrow to dive back into it.

[iansane]

Also test your alternator while running for correct readings to charge the battery and operate the car while in use.

[not5toes]

OK - did more work to it this morning.

I removed the alternator, which wasnt very hard I was surprised LOL.

I re installed my original battery (its reading 12 volts) and the 80AMP fusible link. Made sure the connections were tight and then went to the engine bay. I checked the voltage between the following points and got around 11.5 volts +/-.1 at these locations:

alternator + cable and grounded to engine
starter + cable and grounded to engine
positive terminal near fuse box and grounded to engine.

I tightened down the starter bolt and tried cranking it and to my surprise it cranked over (very weakly though because of the battery).

I am running to the store to get some brake cleaner and degreaser, and to get my alternator tested.

Making some major progress and its not even 11AM :)

[dirtbag30]

Alternator.........

[not5toes]

Yup its my alternator - took it down to oreilly and had it tested. The asst manager did it and said both times it made a strange/weird whirring noise AND it failed the tests.

Replace it or replace brushes?

[LJ851]

Yup its my alternator - took it down to oreilly and had it tested. The asst manager did it and said both times it made a strange/weird whirring noise AND it failed the tests.

Replace it or replace brushes?

Have the bearings failed? Is the regulator bad? Bad diodes? Is there a break in the windings? Is the commutator damaged or glazed ?

You are in over your head, replace it.

[not5toes]

Bearings feel fine - no play and it rotates very easily and smoothly.

Im going to take it apart and examine it, found this article as a general guide - http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=516680

A used alternator is $20 so Ill likely go that route. ahaha

[not5toes]

here is a pic of my voltage regulator + brushes. The one looks very worn?

The alternator had no leaves in it and was very clean behind the black plastic cover